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> Bringin Sexy Back-, She is Finished-The final installment
ellisor3
post Aug 15 2009, 01:43 PM
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I have not posted the progress of my 73 six conversion, so I thought before I got it to paint I should post some pics. The car was purchased from a guy in Ohio as a "Virtually Rust Free Car". He provided photos and did point out some of the rust spots. He neglected to point out that the car had once been wrecked in the rear and there was no rust from the wreck because they used 40 lbs of bondo to cover it. The entire trunk had to be cut out to fix it, as well as part of the passenger floor panel.

Anyway it is about to go to the painter to get GT Flares, GT Rocker Panels, GT Rear Valence and some new color. All in all this car is in great shape, all things considered. Any way here you go.


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Series9
post May 26 2011, 05:27 PM
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QUOTE(ellisor3 @ May 26 2011, 06:38 PM) *

Very Clean Joe. It is only a guess but with that dual Setrab, I would think that you would get more cooling than if you had only one that was twice the size. I am curious to see what the running temp will be in the middle of summer. That is a much better set up than what I had, thanks for the suggestion. I am beginning to think you know what you are doing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)



I'm glad you feel that way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ventedrib
post May 26 2011, 06:13 PM
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Are those wheels 3piece or 2.
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ellisor3
post May 26 2011, 08:45 PM
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QUOTE(ventedrib @ May 26 2011, 08:13 PM) *

Are those wheels 3piece or 2.

3 piece from Intro Wheels
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tomeric914
post May 28 2011, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(Series9 @ May 26 2011, 01:17 PM) *

Here goes the oil cooler install and plumbing.

I know you're just getting everything in to get it up and running, but I'm curious as to how you are controlling the fans. I skipped the oil thermostat altogether with my cooler out back and plan on triggering the fan from an 18 x 1.5 radiator fan switch set to turn on at 85 deg C mounted in the old idiot light switch location on my 3.0. Not sure if the 3.2 has the same idiot light switch location though.
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Series9
post May 28 2011, 07:43 PM
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QUOTE(tomeric914 @ May 28 2011, 09:33 PM) *

QUOTE(Series9 @ May 26 2011, 01:17 PM) *

Here goes the oil cooler install and plumbing.

I know you're just getting everything in to get it up and running, but I'm curious as to how you are controlling the fans. I skipped the oil thermostat altogether with my cooler out back and plan on triggering the fan from an 18 x 1.5 radiator fan switch set to turn on at 85 deg C mounted in the old idiot light switch location on my 3.0. Not sure if the 3.2 has the same idiot light switch location though.



The fans will be started by a relay that is triggered by the fuel pump relay. Basically, the fans will run when the engine is running, but they will only cool oil when it's flowing to be cooled. The oil thermostat will control flow to the coolers.
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Series9
post Jun 1 2011, 02:14 PM
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The plan for the day was to put power on the car and see if I can talk to the TECgt.

Everything went great until I tried to start the engine. It spins like it has no compression. I put a gauge on three of the cylinders and they make 140 psi.

I was able to talk to the ECU and load a base program. The spark plugs are sparking.

I dumped some fuel in the intake manifold and it doesn't even sputter.

I pulled the intake valve covers to make sure the valves aren't too tight. They're not.

Anyway, the TECgt seems to be working fine. When my laptop is hooked up, you can read all the sensor values. If you put vacuum on the MAP sensor, it shows on the laptop instantly. The same with the TPS, etc. It's cool.


However, I'm having some doubts about the internal condition of this engine. Let me sleep on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)



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Series9
post Jun 1 2011, 02:18 PM
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A couple more:




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ellisor3
post Jun 2 2011, 06:49 AM
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Hey Joe,

The engine was purchased from DC Auto. According to Robert (the owner) the engine was rebuilt in March of 2009 by Bruce Abbott aka East Coast Bruce. I do not know him but I did check around and he seemed competent. According to Robert the engine has about 100 miles on it. After I bought the engine from them I had some sketchy dealing with DC on subsequent purchases. Parts were sent that were not up to par (ie fuel pump and impeller x2) I will be really pissed if there is a problem with that engine.

The compression test seems about right at 140 on a cold engine though. The installation looks great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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racerbvd
post Jun 2 2011, 07:44 AM
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Ouch, hope that it doesn't need to be opened up..
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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 08:37 AM
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Stand by.....I'm doing a leak-down on 1 and 4 in the next hour.
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MoveQik
post Jun 2 2011, 08:42 AM
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What size wheels can I fit?
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Hey Joe,

Any advantage in the way you are splitting up the coolers on this one versus the set up you did on mine? Seems like they might get air flowing a little more freely this way. I like it.
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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 09:25 AM
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OK. It's pretty difficult to argue with these numbers.

1 and 4 were both the same and returned very healthy numbers. 94 and 95 over 100.

I'm going to install the gas tank and get some fresh gas.


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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 09:28 AM
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QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jun 2 2011, 10:42 AM) *

Hey Joe,

Any advantage in the way you are splitting up the coolers on this one versus the set up you did on mine? Seems like they might get air flowing a little more freely this way. I like it.



Better air flow is the reason I went to this arrangement. So, yes.
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Ferg
post Jun 2 2011, 09:29 AM
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FWIW my injectors caused 2 days of headache when trying to get my 3.2 going for the first time after it's rebuild and having sat for a year.
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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 11:47 AM
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It made noise!!!!


No idle yet........
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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 11:58 AM
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It runs!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)



Interestingly, the ignition key doesn't shut the engine off. I had to unplug the harness to the computer.

That's probably a back-feed from the fuel pump relay. I'll find it.


F'in A.
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Ferg
post Jun 2 2011, 12:12 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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Series9
post Jun 2 2011, 12:43 PM
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Now that we've passed the biggest hurdle in this build, I stopped to make a list of things that have to be done to deliver the car:

Fix the ECU relay wiring (so it shuts off with the key)
Drive shafts
Tranny linkages
Adel clamps on the oil lines
Tie up all the FI and other wiring
Fab a DFU bracket
Wire the oil cooler fans
Fab a muffler hanger
Finish the bottom bracket for the coolers
MAP to intake manifold adapter
Front decklid
Interior
Air cleaner and piping
Install the MAT sensor
TPS bracket
Breather tubing
Breather filter
Main power wire to the ECU
Oxygen sensor module and wiring
Tachometer



Crap. Back to work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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Madswede
post Jun 2 2011, 12:45 PM
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Rawk! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Now I wanna hear it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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ellisor3
post Jun 2 2011, 01:32 PM
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QUOTE(Madswede @ Jun 2 2011, 02:45 PM) *

Rawk! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Now I wanna hear it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)



Me Too. Kick Ass Joe. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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