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> Removing Transmission, Need advice and help..., Never pulled one before...
montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 16 2009, 12:37 AM
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I know the steps:

- take off 4 bolts tranny to engine
- unhook 2 tranny mounts in the back
- take off 2 axels
- take off shift linkage
- remove muffler/muffler hanger
- remove starter and wire to reverse switch
- remove speedo cable
- remove clutch cable
- disconnect tranny ground strap

(EDIT: Not necessarliy in correct order)

But whats the best way to remove without damaging:

Shift linkage (remove the Spam Can without damaging the clamp), speedo cable & clutch cable?

A few pictures of what I'm dealing with...

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"Spam Can"
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Mark Henry
post Aug 16 2009, 01:04 AM
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Big nut on speedo drive, do it carefully and don't twist on the drive.
Undo the clutch nut and the the pulley, remove cable.
Undo the spam can, carefully remove the cone screws front (firewall) and back and then sneak the shift rod out.

The clamp.... well that depends, but you have to undo it.
Prey, make offerings to the gods....?
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Dr Evil
post Aug 16 2009, 01:31 AM
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4 bolts tranny to engine are LAST, unless you want to injure yourself.

-You need to put a jack under the engine/tranny
-Remove the axles, cables, starter wires, etc (you should already have the battery detached by now)
-Remove the 4 bolts and nuts that hold the rear mounts to the body
-Lower the rear part of the drive train
- Place a cinder block with wood on top of it under the square boss at the back of the engine
- Place the jack under the tranny
- Remove the 4 bolts/nuts for the tranny to the engine (remove starter)
- Carefully move the tranny back from the engine

It weighs 70-80# so you can man handle it.
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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 16 2009, 11:54 AM
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Thank you!
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Bristol
post Aug 17 2009, 11:32 AM
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I just did this job last week (bad seal on trans shaft). The method I used worked VERY well. With the car off the ground already on jackstands, I put another jackstand under the engine with a section of 2X4 on it to support the rear part of the engine. I like to use wood between the jack/jackstand and the car so that there's a softer seat and the weight is distributed more, just make sure it's SECURE!

I then used a motorcycle lift to slightly lift the transmission and remove it from the engine. It took some wiggling and work, but the trans slide back on the motorcycle lift pretty nicely. One key here is that I used two sections of 2X4 (stacked on top of each other) at the rear of the transmission and one section of 2X4 and one section of 1X4 towards the front of the transmission. The wood was used between the lift and the trans. These sections were placed on each side (front and back) of the Spam Can so that no weight was actually put on the Spam Can. This way I could evenly support the trans and work it free of the engine without any damage. Once free of the engine I just slowly lowered the lift down and slid it from under the car. Easy peasy.... Install was the reverse of above.

Kirk
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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 17 2009, 02:15 PM
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Where and what exactly do I remove?


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Cupomeat
post Aug 17 2009, 02:20 PM
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Ok, at the end of the shift rod, behind the bushing, the piece (which is also the cup for the ball socket) that slides over the shift rod has to be removed. You can see the set screw (pin) on the bottom side of it.

Use an allen wrench to remove the pin and gently knock forward the shift rod out of the piece.

Does that help?
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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 17 2009, 02:57 PM
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QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Aug 17 2009, 01:20 PM) *

Ok, at the end of the shift rod, behind the bushing, the piece (which is also the cup for the ball socket) that slides over the shift rod has to be removed. You can see the set screw (pin) on the bottom side of it.

Use an allen wrench to remove the pin and gently knock forward the shift rod out of the piece.

Does that help?



Yep. Don't want to remove something that I will be pissed about later. thanks!
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Dr Evil
post Aug 17 2009, 06:30 PM
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The yellow arrow is the rear conical screw. There is one in the front that needs to be removed as well. The whole outer linkage needs to be removed to pull the tranny without issue. The blue arrow shows the end of the rod that you push forward while you pull the cup rearward. Easy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 17 2009, 11:04 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 17 2009, 05:30 PM) *

The yellow arrow is the rear conical screw. There is one in the front that needs to be removed as well. The whole outer linkage needs to be removed to pull the tranny without issue. The blue arrow shows the end of the rod that you push forward while you pull the cup rearward. Easy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)



was wondering why the rod wouldn't back out of the case? So to the front I go! Thanks Doc. Oh, them triple square bolts are a real pain. I think I may have to destroy them to get them out. I got two out before the tool started to spin out. Vice grips should work good? Uh Doc, I'll buy two sets of bolts instead of one.
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Dr Evil
post Aug 17 2009, 11:12 PM
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PM and remind me. I will be making some this week I hope.
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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 23 2009, 04:44 PM
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I believe this sending unit has to be removed but I don't know what it's for and do I plug it after removing?

(EDIT: It's probably the reverse switch. Damn I hate when I ask questions then figure it out after.)


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Dave_Darling
post Aug 23 2009, 04:55 PM
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Just unplug it; the wires have bullet-shaped connectors on the end that plug into the switch. Pull 'em out.

--DD
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montoya 73 2.0
post Aug 23 2009, 04:56 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Aug 23 2009, 03:55 PM) *

Just unplug it; the wires have bullet-shaped connectors on the end that plug into the switch. Pull 'em out.

--DD



Thank you Dave!
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montoya 73 2.0
post Sep 1 2009, 11:11 PM
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Pulled out the Tranny the next day (Monday). But this happened and I don't know if it was not supposed too.

After dropping (pulling) the tranny, as I moved the Jack from under the car this fell off.
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The bushing was left on the tranny.
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Is this okay?
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Dr Evil
post Sep 1 2009, 11:31 PM
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Oh Shit! That is totally OK.
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montoya 73 2.0
post Sep 1 2009, 11:55 PM
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Okay cool! Just checking.

Quick question, Is there something I can do to lengthen second gear? Driving at 35 MPH in 2nd the RPM's are high and 3rd is to low.
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Dr Evil
post Sep 2 2009, 12:18 AM
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Sure, with enough money you can do anything. 2nd is not changeable unless you have an $1800+ 904 input shaft and the associated gears (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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jimkelly
post Sep 2 2009, 09:51 AM
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rpm's high - you want to drive in the gear that keeps your rpms in the ballpark of 3000-3300 range as this is the rpms your engine needs to stay cool. jim
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montoya 73 2.0
post Sep 2 2009, 04:46 PM
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Wasn't thinking that far in advance, But i guess i should. I was just thinking about driveing through the neighborhoods in the morning on my way to work and trying to be nice about my exhaust being to loud.

Screw'em, they should be up at 6:45am like me! So inconsiderate of me!
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