Rear Caliper Rebuild, E-Brake No Workie! |
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Rear Caliper Rebuild, E-Brake No Workie! |
19144jt |
Aug 17 2009, 10:21 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 |
I thought I posted this last night but my crappy lighting-fast dial-up must have messed it up. Any way, I rebuilt my rear calipers using the Pelican article and kits recommended in said atricle. I was very careful with the rebuild. Yesterday I installed all new e-brake cables and adjusted them. However, my ebrake doesn't work. I haven't bleed the brakes yet but you shouldn't have to have to have fluid in the calipers for the e-brake to work...right? I adjusted the venting clearance in the outer half of the caliper. Is there an intial adjustment required for the inner half too that relates to the e-brake mechanism? I can't find any information on this in either the factory or aftermarket manuals. Any ideas?
John |
underthetire |
Aug 17 2009, 10:31 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Yes you need to bleed the brakes first. First generation rear disks. Newer cars actually have drum E brakes inside the disk "hat".
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r_towle |
Aug 17 2009, 10:35 AM
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#3
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Actually, you do not need to bleed them for the e-brake to work.
You DO need to set the venting on both sides to the same distance...004 is the correct number. the haynes manual is wrong here. We have discussed the number quite at length here. Eric Shea makes a great point.. The difference between oo4 and 008 is so small..dont think about that. Do set both the inner and outer the same or your ebrake wont work. Rich |
IronHillRestorations |
Aug 17 2009, 11:40 AM
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#4
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
Just an FYI, NO "regular" 914 or 914-6 came with the 911 style parking brake mechanism ("drum brakes inside the hat").
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19144jt |
Aug 17 2009, 11:50 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 |
Thanks guys....I'll try the adjustment. How do you get to it? There must be a hole through the arm or you have to take the caliper off.
John (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
19144jt |
Aug 17 2009, 11:51 AM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 |
Cancel that last thought! Duh, you couldn't set a clearance with the caliper off so there must be a hole through the arm!
John (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
19144jt |
Aug 18 2009, 02:44 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 |
I raced home last night in the water-cooled ride and, after doing chores for the wife, had time to adjust the inner pad on one rear caliper of my '75 914 project. That was it!! The e-brake works now. Thanks again guys!!
John |
Eric_Shea |
Aug 18 2009, 04:04 PM
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#8
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
FYI for the ROW.
When you pull the inner piston in "completely" upon rebuild, the handbrake arm will be in-effective. The adjuster has been literally pulled in and away from the arm. You will need to do what John did and turn the gear clockwise until the piston engages. Once you've reached the engagement point the piston will begin to adjust outward and the arm will now be engaged. Readers Digest: Adjust them and everything will be fine. |
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