Fuel Tank Crud? Redoing Fuel Lines, Etc. Options

[kenshapiro2002]

Heading out to the garage.

Take a multimeter and check for 12V on the hot wire to the coil with the ignition in the on position. It'll be a spade type connector.

[kenshapiro2002]

Well...either I'm getting nothing or don't know what I'm doing (highly likely). I have an old multimeter, with an analog type dial. I touched the black lead to what I figured was a decent ground, and tried every one of the six or so spade connections on the coil. Nothing. During the whole time, the fuel pump never stopped clicking (ever so slowly). Maybe the AA battery in the meter was bad...I'll try this again in the AM.

Heading out to the garage.

Take a multimeter and check for 12V on the hot wire to the coil with the ignition in the on position. It'll be a spade type connector.

[jmill]

On the older meters you only need the batteries for checking resistance (ohms). Touch the leads together on ohms setting and see if the needle pegs out. If not change the batteries and check again. Checking DC volts should use the circuits DC voltage to move the needle. A test light will work too but you can only see you have voltage not if it's low or not.

The coil will have a + marked on the 12V side. If you have no voltage there with the key in the run position you'll have to trace the circuit and find your problem. Others here are way more qualified than me to help you fix that.

[kenshapiro2002]

Thanks again.

On the older meters you only need the batteries for checking resistance (ohms). Touch the leads together on ohms setting and see if the needle pegs out. If not change the batteries and check again. Checking DC volts should use the circuits DC voltage to move the needle. A test light will work too but you can only see you have voltage not if it's low or not.

The coil will have a + marked on the 12V side. If you have no voltage there with the key in the run position you'll have to trace the circuit and find your problem. Others here are way more qualified than me to help you fix that.

[silverteener]

Change the sock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) you never know! It looks like yours needs changed anyways. Most likely not your problem but it's the only advise I can give on this one. good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[kenshapiro2002]

With my limited knowledge I still believe it's fuel related and not electrical. As soon as I figure out a responsible thing to do with 4 gallons of fuel, the tank is coming out...new sock...new fuel pump. Then, if things don't get better, I'll start somewhere else. New coil !

Change the sock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) you never know! It looks like yours needs changed anyways. Most likely not your problem but it's the only advise I can give on this one. good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jmill]

Your car should at least turn over and try to start. Does it cough and sputter and then die? You should be able to run it on the accelerator pumps. If not you now have an ignition problem.

[kenshapiro2002]

It does not even try to start...no sputter, cough, etc. It does "sound" very different when I'm turning it over when I give it throttle vs. giving it none. Not sure how to describe it, but the tone changes very much. Even though the accelerator pumps are working, there's very little smell of gas like you'd expect. Maybe it's pumping something less than 100% gas?

Your car should at least turn over and try to start. Does it cough and sputter and then die? You should be able to run it on the accelerator pumps. If not you now have an ignition problem.

[neil30076]

It does not even try to start...no sputter, cough, etc. It does "sound" very different when I'm turning it over when I give it throttle vs. giving it none. Not sure how to describe it, but the tone changes very much. Even though the accelerator pumps are working, there's very little smell of gas like you'd expect. Maybe it's pumping something less than 100% gas?

Your car should at least turn over and try to start. Does it cough and sputter and then die? You should be able to run it on the accelerator pumps. If not you now have an ignition problem.

Probably asked before, but does it try to start with starter fluid sprayed in - I know others say don't use it - but at this point sounds like you have nothing to loose!

[kenshapiro2002]

Lemme go get some and try. It revs higher when I apply throttle vs. not applying any. Be right back.

It does not even try to start...no sputter, cough, etc. It does "sound" very different when I'm turning it over when I give it throttle vs. giving it none. Not sure how to describe it, but the tone changes very much. Even though the accelerator pumps are working, there's very little smell of gas like you'd expect. Maybe it's pumping something less than 100% gas?

Your car should at least turn over and try to start. Does it cough and sputter and then die? You should be able to run it on the accelerator pumps. If not you now have an ignition problem.

Probably asked before, but does it try to start with starter fluid sprayed in - I know others say don't use it - but at this point sounds like you have nothing to loose!

[kenshapiro2002]

Starter fluid did bupkiss, so it must be electrical. The dwell was fine...she has new plugs and wireset. Buy a new coil? Where do I go from here?

[jmill]

You need to check for voltage at the coil. Use a test light if your meter is bad. At least you'll know you have voltage there.

[kenshapiro2002]

Going out to do that now...got the meter working now. Also bought a new coil...might as well make everything fresh anyway.

You need to check for voltage at the coil. Use a test light if your meter is bad. At least you'll know you have voltage there.

[kenshapiro2002]

I have 12 volts at the ignition side of the (brand new blue Bosch) coil. The points are opening on the cams. Although I'm still a rookie it looks like it has to be either the points or condensor at this point. What else could it be at this point? If it won't even shudder with starting fluid, and has new plugs, wires, & coil...is getting 12 v at the coil and the accelerator pumps are pumping...

What else could have deteriorated and gone away as I was driving her yesterday?

[neil30076]

I have 12 volts at the ignition side of the (brand new blue Bosch) coil. The points are opening on the cams. Although I'm still a rookie it looks like it has to be either the points or condensor at this point. What else could it be at this point? If it won't even shudder with starting fluid, and has new plugs, wires, & coil...is getting 12 v at the coil and the accelerator pumps are pumping...

What else could have deteriorated and gone away as I was driving her yesterday?

Take a spare plug, remove one of the plug wires from the engine and hook up the spare plug. Make sure the body of the plug is well grounded to the engine, use copper wire to tie it down to something if needed. crank the car and watch the plug for a spark - let us know what you see, or don't!
OR
if you have a timing light hook it and and crank the engine, does it flash?

[kenshapiro2002]

Used a timing light...nothing.

I have 12 volts at the ignition side of the (brand new blue Bosch) coil. The points are opening on the cams. Although I'm still a rookie it looks like it has to be either the points or condensor at this point. What else could it be at this point? If it won't even shudder with starting fluid, and has new plugs, wires, & coil...is getting 12 v at the coil and the accelerator pumps are pumping...

What else could have deteriorated and gone away as I was driving her yesterday?

Take a spare plug, remove one of the plug wires from the engine and hook up the spare plug. Make sure the body of the plug is well grounded to the engine, use copper wire to tie it down to something if needed. crank the car and watch the plug for a spark - let us know what you see, or don't!
OR
if you have a timing light hook it and and crank the engine, does it flash?

[jmill]

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

[neil30076]

Used a timing light...nothing.

Take a spare plug, remove one of the plug wires from the engine and hook up the spare plug. Make sure the body of the plug is well grounded to the engine, use copper wire to tie it down to something if needed. crank the car and watch the plug for a spark - let us know what you see, or don't!
OR
if you have a timing light hook it and and crank the engine, does it flash?

Ok, so lets recap - no apparent spark, new coil, points, etc.
I assume you have a test meter that really works (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
1)Pull the wire from the coil to the distributor/ condenser ( the - or number 1 terminal) put your meter on a voltage range, say 20v, and put it between the #1 terminal and the engine metal, turn on the ingition, does it show 12v? Turn off ignition.
2) take a piece of wire and hook it to #1 termial, turn on ignition, and very briefly flash the loose end of the wire to engine metal, did you see a spark from the wire? Turn off ignition
3) leave the wire attached, pull the center spark plug wire from the distributor and put an old spark plug on it. Lay it on the engine so it touches the metal well - not to paint!
4) Repeat #2, does the plug spark when you flash the wire to the metal?
LMK

[neil30076]

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

You do have a rotor in there don't you?
and
the center carbon contact is touching it!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[kenshapiro2002]

Yes...I have a rotorin there. Is it touching the contact? No idea...I'm too big to get in there with it. Tried that with the refrigerator once to see if the light really goes out.

The points are not new, but they are opening, and showed good dwell (46 ish) before the car crapped out. I guess I'll do points and condensor tomorrow.

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

You do have a rotor in there don't you?
and
the center carbon contact is touching it!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)