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> I Found 4th and 5th, It's ALIVE - Thanks THOMAS & Dr. Evil!
ericread
post Sep 23 2009, 11:01 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 23 2009, 09:36 AM) *

OK, as I was falling a sleep this morning I remembered the issue you spoke of, Eric. My intention was that you hold off and we address the looseness, but I guess that somehow we didnt and it was assembled as is. It is interesting that you got R-3 on that set up but not 4-5. I am sorry that I was not clear on the need to get that slop taken care of. When I said, "Sure, its not my transmission" I was trying to be funny and to indicate that it needs to be fixed. Sorry for the extra bit of work it caused you and I am glad you were able to handle it. I was more concerned about the stack than the console as the console is easy to remove, fix and install.


Relax there Dr. Dude! All is well. I'm heading over to the parts store right now for some more tranny fluid, and I will change out the part this afternoon. BTW: 1st 2nd and 3rd are AWESOME! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

The "Sure, its not my transmission" is pure Dr. Evil. We all know that is your sense of levity (God help your patients (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif))

My thanks for all of your assistance, and I'm sure 4th and 5th will return soon (I feel as though I'm almost worthy enough for them now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )

Eric
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Dr Evil
post Sep 23 2009, 11:21 AM
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Indeed, you have crossed the threshold into 4-5 worthiness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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ericread
post Sep 23 2009, 05:07 PM
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No Joy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Dr. Evil;

I replaced the ball pin-shift finger asembly this afternoon. Unfortunately, I am still unable to find 4th or 5th gear. Using my hand on the ball, I can feel R, 1st, 2nd and 3rd click into place. 4th feels like I'm barely pressing against a spring at the end of the travel, and I don't feel anything for 5th.

So what is the next step?

I imagine I need to drop the tranny again. Take it over to Thomas and see if he'll take a look?

Please let me know...

For everybody else out there, I have no doubt this this is a minor issue. Possibly a shift rod alignment issue inside the case, or maybe one of the shift rods weren't tightened quite enough. The only reason I'm sharing this with the board is that this is probably a worst case scenario. Anyone who was at the SoCal Transmission clinic will agree that I am no whiz with a wrench, and nothing to this point has caused me to regret in any way my participation in the clinic. If I can get this thing working correctly (wih help when necessary) then anyone can.

Eric

EDIT: I spoke to Thomas and he's kindly agreed to take a look at the tranny on Friday afternoon. So I will trudge downstairs and drop the tranny now.

ER
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Dr Evil
post Sep 23 2009, 07:09 PM
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The only thing I can think of is that the 4-5 fork is loose (no bolt?). That is odd. I am sure Thomas will straighten it out. Sorry you are having such a time, especially since this is your daily driver. I bet it is a simple fix.
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ericread
post Sep 23 2009, 07:19 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 23 2009, 06:09 PM) *

The only thing I can think of is that the 4-5 fork is loose (no bolt?). That is odd. I am sure Thomas will straighten it out. Sorry you are having such a time, especially since this is your daily driver. I bet it is a simple fix.


I guess I should have stuck with Leaman's adjustment. It might not have been as accurate, but at least it was tightened... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)

The good news is that I can now drop a transmission in 90 minutes. That's right folks, from street driving to dropping the tranny in just 90 minutes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Eric

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ClayPerrine
post Sep 24 2009, 08:10 AM
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You don't have to remove the tranny, just drop the back end, remove the tail cover, the side shift console, and slide the gear stack out.

Then readjust......
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computers4kids
post Sep 24 2009, 09:02 AM
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QUOTE(ericread @ Sep 23 2009, 06:19 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 23 2009, 06:09 PM) *

The only thing I can think of is that the 4-5 fork is loose (no bolt?). That is odd. I am sure Thomas will straighten it out. Sorry you are having such a time, especially since this is your daily driver. I bet it is a simple fix.


I guess I should have stuck with Leaman's adjustment. It might not have been as accurate, but at least it was tightened... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)

The good news is that I can now drop a transmission in 90 minutes. That's right folks, from street driving to dropping the tranny in just 90 minutes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Eric


Eric, I applaud your positive attitude! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Although, your thread is making me a bit nervous. I'll have mine back in Sat. morning...hopefully, there won't be any new threads from me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm very curious to find out what your 4/5 issue is. Like the Doc said, it's probably something very simple. Perhaps it's those parts I borrowed when you were eating lunch...I thought they were extras. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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r_towle
post Sep 24 2009, 09:53 AM
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Eric,
I am really sorry that this happened to your daily driver...that sucks.

I think you need to pull the stack out and get it looked at by Thomas...probably the best way forward at this point.

sounds like a shift fork issue that can be resolved if he has a few minutes to look close at it.

Rich
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ericread
post Sep 24 2009, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Sep 24 2009, 07:10 AM) *

You don't have to remove the tranny, just drop the back end, remove the tail cover, the side shift console, and slide the gear stack out.

Then readjust......


To be honest, I have the ability to work from home when necessary, so it hasn't been a significant problem for me.

Clay; You are correct, of course. But i want to ensure the entire unit is working correctly. So I dropped the tranny, and I'm taking it to Thomas on Friday.

I'll post what Thomas determines the problem was as soon as I return from his shop on Friday evening.

When I originally drove it to Thomas' shop yesterday (using 1st through 3rd)
the difference in shifting was amazing. I just can't wait to get 4th and 5th fixed so I can really take my teener out on the road! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

For anybody else lurking out there, one of the main reasons I decided to take advantage of Dr. Evil's clinic was that he "warranteed" the re-built tranny for a few months. As a result, one of Dr. Evil's associates/peers (Thomas in my case) is assisting me in troubleshooting this issue. Dr. Evil has made every effort to assist me, which is as much as anyone should expect.

If we find that the shift fork is loose, I only ask one thing; At every other transmission clinic, everytime Dr. Evil adjusts your shift forks, ask him "Are you sure you tightened that shift fork correctly?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)

Eric (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Sep 24 2009, 12:57 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Thomas checked all of your external linkage, right? Nothing in the tunnel is blocking you up? This is just a strange problem.

Mark, dont worry. In over 100 rebuilds I have had 2 (including this one) that needed a little attention due to internal stuff.
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Dr Evil
post Sep 24 2009, 01:20 PM
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If you are so inclined, when you have your box out, pull the selector console with the tranz in neutral. Then, look into the hole and see if the rods are aligned (check against pic in my rebuild thread). This will give some info in the mean time.
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ericread
post Sep 24 2009, 01:48 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 24 2009, 11:57 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Thomas checked all of your external linkage, right? Nothing in the tunnel is blocking you up? This is just a strange problem.

Mark, dont worry. In over 100 rebuilds I have had 2 (including this one) that needed a little attention due to internal stuff.


Yes, we specifically checked for this.

As for alignment, I will try to get to the console to check this afternoon.

Mark; Don't make any jokes about Dr. Evil looking old. I'm not saying Dr. Evil's sensitive, but I'm the only one with the rebuild problem... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Eric
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Dr Evil
post Sep 24 2009, 01:53 PM
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You said I look old? I dont remember that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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r_towle
post Sep 24 2009, 01:59 PM
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There are two things to look for when you are inspecting the shift rods through the shift console hole...at least two that are easy to see.

If its in neutral, all three shift rods should line up vertically...a simple visual will confirm this...they really need to be dead on.

the second is a twisted shift rod. It will appear vertically correct, but the 4/5 rod is actually twisted slightly.
It really wont be an easy thing to see and it cannot be fixed unless you pull the gear stack...but if you put a small straight edge up into the groove of the shift rods, the place the shift tooth from the console goes....and try to hold the straight edge on to the bottom of the groove, you will see if one is twisted.

Good luck

Rich
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ericread
post Sep 24 2009, 02:14 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 24 2009, 12:53 PM) *

You said I look old? I dont remember that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I'm not sure I actually said outright that you looked old. I only mentioned during dinner that although I was 20 years older than you, I felt much, much younger when I compared myself to you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) If I remember correctly, you blamed your "elder" look with a few days of beard growth. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) After dinner you adjusted my shift forks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

It was really funny until I couldn't shift into 4th and 5th... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

Eric (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Sep 24 2009, 02:32 PM
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The twisted rod for 4-5 will either be obvious or it will not be the problem. The fingers can interact with the rod or it cant.

Ya know, I stayed sober the whole time at the SoCal clinic....maybe that was the problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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ericread
post Sep 25 2009, 07:59 PM
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IT IS ALIVE!!!

I drove over to Thomas' shop this afternoon with my tranny. He removed the back, pulled the stacks and quickly surmused the 4th and 5th gear fork was loose. A few minutes later, the fork was adusted and tightened, the stack replaced in the case, and the back bolted down.

Attached Image
You can't see it real clearly form this picture, but the 4th 5th gear fork is out of position. Thomas noticed the bolt was fairly loose on this fork.

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image
Note the alignment jig. Yep, he made it himself from an old tranny case. In the background is his 1.7 10-year project.

He also has a 3.2 914 that sports a 911-01 transmission. As he explained it to me, it has basically the same internals as a 901, with a larger flywheel are clutch area and from what I can tell, a different clutch release process than the 901 tranny.

Anyway, after rabout 20 minutes, my transmission was all back together and all six gears were selectable from the shift ball.

I'll put it back in my teener tomorrow and post my results.

Eric (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Sep 25 2009, 08:03 PM
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Doh! I am glad it is fixed. Sorry about that. You should have tightened that bolt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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ericread
post Sep 25 2009, 09:10 PM
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One more item of note. While he was removing the back of the transmission, Thomas noted that he didn't much care for the stainles steel nuts. His thoughts were that the stainless steel was dissimilar enough to the steel studs in the tranny to cause a potential corrosion problem

Thomas said he preferred a steel nylock nut.

Any thoughts?
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Dr Evil
post Sep 25 2009, 09:31 PM
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As much as I respect his opinion, I did the research and stainless nylock is the same as stainless in that it will corrode the same with contact to the mag alloy (the corrodie). The space distance on the galvanic scale is negligible and the stock hardware corrodes just fine. The stainless is a good bet, I have looked into it. For the 100th time now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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