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> Trans leak at the linkage shaft, Paging Dr. Evel, Please call ER stat
URY914
post Oct 1 2009, 07:42 PM
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But to replace the seal I'll need to remove the roll pin and pull the shaft out.
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tradisrad
post Oct 1 2009, 07:51 PM
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I vaguely remember replacing the o-ring. I dont recall having to drive out any roll pin either. Sorry I did not have as complete of an answer as the Dr. did, but I've only done it once...
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URY914
post Oct 1 2009, 08:03 PM
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The Dr. is probably busy in an O.R. and can't reply right now.
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URY914
post Oct 1 2009, 08:27 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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Dr Evil
post Oct 1 2009, 08:32 PM
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Yes, remove the INNER pin so that when you reinsert your rod it goes with the seal instead of against it.
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URY914
post Oct 1 2009, 08:54 PM
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OK but this will have to wait till Sat. morning. Thanks for all your help.


BTW, is "reinsert your rod" a medical term? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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maf914
post Oct 2 2009, 12:30 PM
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Paul,

Is that a bronze shift rod bushing in the console? If so, does it work okay? How is the fit on the shift rod? Snug or loose?
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ericread
post Oct 2 2009, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(maf914 @ Oct 2 2009, 11:30 AM) *

Paul,

Is that a bronze shift rod bushing in the console? If so, does it work okay? How is the fit on the shift rod? Snug or loose?


I have a bronze shift rod bushing. It's not totally snug, but I think it works better than the plastic bushings.

Eric Read
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r_towle
post Oct 2 2009, 02:24 PM
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Paul,

When you are ready to get the roll pin out, support the forked piece very well so you dont stress out the aluminum console while banging.

Also, while its out and simple, flip the bronze bushing around...its gives you a bit more clearance for 5th gear...

Rich
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URY914
post Oct 2 2009, 02:31 PM
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The bushing was installed by the previous owner. I didn't even know it wasn't plastic.
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URY914
post Oct 2 2009, 02:32 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 2 2009, 01:24 PM) *

Paul,

When you are ready to get the roll pin out, support the forked piece very well so you dont stress out the aluminum console while banging.

Also, while its out and simple, flip the bronze bushing around...its gives you a bit more clearance for 5th gear...

Rich


You mean put the flange on the inside of the console?

It is put in with JB Weld it look like.
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r_towle
post Oct 2 2009, 02:38 PM
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Mine was all fine until I rebuilt and readjusted the shifter forks...then it hit.
If yours is in with JBWeld then leave it...
If you ever have a problem with getting into 5th...that is the issue to look at first..
It could be from the position of the engine/tranny....it could be the shifter adjustment up front...
Its really slight, but you just cant get all the way into fifth..the piece that attaches to the end of the shift rod hits that bushing...just a smidge.

Rich
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URY914
post Oct 3 2009, 07:02 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 1 2009, 06:04 AM) *

Thanks Mike but I ordered the seal from Pelican last night and it'll be here Tuesday. I've already drained the rest of the fluid.


I got the seal in the mail today from Pelican. Three days early!! Who would have thunk it??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I should get o-ring on Monday.
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URY914
post Oct 3 2009, 07:06 PM
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I drove the roll pin out this morning. I tapped it on one side than the other a few times to get it loose than drove it all the way out. Here are the parts laid out, w/o the O-ring.

The piece on the lower right is the piece that came out with the fluid. It can't be good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Getting the old seal out was more of a pain than getting the pin out.


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SlingShot
post Oct 12 2009, 12:25 PM
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Similar Problem I'm having on a 70 914-6. It has the same leak at the shift selector seal. I replaced the seal, and it still leaks. There is a gap between the brass bushing and seal, so I placed an O ring there and that helped the problem, but still leaks. The shaft has some play inside of the brass bushing, but I wouldn't consider it exsesive. Any thought would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris
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