My driver’s door has this problem where you can lock it or turn it with the key to the right fine but it does not want to come back to the left clean all the time. The keys work in all the locks and are in good shape. I have tried two different sets the red one and the black. A new set and an original set from the car.

I was on the phone with Eric Shea for something different and he thought because it was sticking to spray brake cleaner in the key slot. I did put the red nosel in deep and gave the lock a lot of cleaning. I know I did a good job as there was a bit of black grease that came out. I did this 3 times. It stills will not work like the right door.

I have to turn it to the right then left a few times to get it to unlock. It seems to lock fine but does not want to unlock at this tumbler. Do you think if I take an extra tumbler from a different lock to a locksmith to match to my key this will work as my pins may be warn or the lock may be screwed.

Any ideas.

Bob

Bob,
Now that you have cleaned out all the accumulated crud, why not spray some lube in there? WD-40 is a start, but you may need heavier lube. Sounds likeyou have dry tumblers.
Pat

First make sure the lock tunblers are really clean, You will need to take the handle off and remove the lock mechanism from the handle. Clean it and also really clean the spring (circled in red) so that it move freely. Spray it with CLP and see if that helps.

Click to view attachment

You may also need to clean the actual door mechanisms. They get gummed up & won't let the actuator move freely.

Just did mine...took the lock cylinder all the way out and even removed the tumblers and springs (keep them in order)...hand cleaned each one and the cylinder itself. Removed the door handle and cleaned every part. Works like any 2010 car out there. Before, I thought I had the been given the wrong key by the PO (wouldn't turn at all), and had to shoulder the door from inside to get out.

BTW...I wouldn't spray brake cleaner anywhere near my paint.

I had the same problem. As several folks have already said, clean, clean, clean...that's step one.

When you have it apart, as in the photo above where the piece with the actuator arm is off (the one circled in red), you'll notice there is a square machined out of the inside, and on the end of the tumbler is a corresponding square that sticks out and fits neatly inside it.

On my lock, part of the square on the end of the tumbler had broken off, so it had some grip to turn right, but not enough to move the actuator left. I ended up removing what was left on the end of the tumblre, fabricating a small metal sware to take it's place, and supergluing the whole mess together with a new screw and pressure washer. It has worked great ever since...but I do unlock the door gingerly!

I just had the right handle off today, as the plastic was broken so the door would not open from the outside and I put the new repair kit on. I take it that the Philips screw that I removed is what is holding on the lock mechanism with spring that is circled in red.

I guess the tumbler comes right out. I will clean the shit out of in my solvent sink.

The mechanism must be what is held on with the large Phillip’s head screws when you open the door. Solvents clean this as well and then what to use as lube?

Bob

i'm not clear if you can turn the key both ways. if you can turn both ways and it locks but does not unlock then:



i had this problem too. i converted to the "square" on the end type. my early 73' had 2 pins instead (1 had sheared off). i assume the pin type end is early and suare is late. make sure the screw in the end of the tumbler is tight.

p.s. make sure the key return spring is installed in the notches right when you put the end peice back on

It gets hung up on the counter clock wise turn and you need to keep turning it to the right then left till it hits this spot where it needs to get past. It takes screwing around with. Not Porsche like.

Bob

I was told to use powdered graphite as a lube, not oil. I dunno what is correct though.

NO GRAPHITE!

Geez, you don't need to scream.

Sorry to revive, but, I am still wondering whats best for relubing after the degunking?

Why not? I was taught to never use anything but graphite or a drying molybdenum spray in any tumbler lock. Any lubricant that's wet will attract and hold dust and grime, gumming up the mechanism so it won't work any more. Graphite won't go stiff in sub-freezing temperatures the way wet lubricant will, either. So why not graphite?

AFAIK graphite is the lube of choice and has always worked for me. Moderate careful application is the key (no pun intended)

works well for me too.

Click to view attachment

I've always used white lithium grease. They work smooth as silk afterwards. You're not trying to grease the part where the key goes in, but rather the outside of the cylinder and the inside of the housing.

Wurth makes a great lube that sprays a similar consistency to WD-40 but then becomes thicker so it doesn't run, almost like a gel.

I've always been told you never use an oil in lock cylinders as it will attract dirt and gum things up. Dry Graphite is the prefered lubricant for lock cylinders.

I know a locksmith who is related to the guy who imports the Berner key machines, the ones made to do key work for German cars. He uses nothing but Tri-Flow, and agrees with the other locksmiths I know who warn that graphite accelerates wear in this kind of setup. As Tri-Flow is something we use around the shop, I see no reason to argue with an expert. BTW, WD 40 is a water displacer, not a lubricant.

The Cap'n

Tri-Flow is good too. It's basically Teflon and wax in a petroleum base. It's good stuff but WAY more expensive. True, graphite is an abrasive so it will accelerate wear but the amount of wear over a lifetime of use is negligible. Want to use a great product, get Tri-Flow. Want something that works for a couple of bucks, graphite will do the trick. With either product, don't put gobs of it in there. There is such a thing as too much of a good thing.
Like Cap'n said, wd 40 is not a lube.

I've used Tri-flo for my whole career on locks and hinges. With all the salt and crap they use on the winter roads in BC often one application and the car is good for a couple or three years. I used it on the doors in the house over eight years ago and they're still quiet as ever. I won't use anything else but that's just my opinion.

Cheers, Andrew.

When I re-did my locks back in November, I used brake cleaner to clean the cylinders, wafers, and springs. I used a very small amount of anti-sieze. I mean a very small amount. The handles and locks OAD (operate as designed). I'm sure someone is going to shoot this one down but think of it this way: The amount of time it takes to remove a door handle and the cylinder is about 5 minutes. If I have to do this every couple of years; then so be it.
Just my .02 worth.

Me,myself and I, as well....silicone is also a good 1...adhere to the ending of rob's
quote!!