Ok I did a search and got mixed reviews... decided while the engine was out for the hell hole repair which is finished I would take car of the oil leaks.. a Little back ground is that I CAN NOT trust what the PO.did. He said the engine was just rebuilt it is a 2.0 with 1.7 heads. there was a firly large leak at the push rod tubes where the seals were cut by a rough opening in the push tube holes in the head .. I got that all cleaned up with a brake hone and it is silky smooth, but it looks like thert is a slight leak at the jugs to the case and maybe at the head , but its hard to tell since ther was oil everywhere. should there be head and base gaskets or not? if there arent any now and it is leaking is it from improper torque? I'm going to pull the heads to take a look any ways but I"m wondering Should I use base and head gaskets or not? if nothing is ther a "dressing " I should use ... This is my first time tearing into a type 4 , but not my first engine Thansk for the imnput

The pushrod tube seals and the valve cover gaskets can be replaced in car, this is where most (if not all) of your oil is coming from.

It has cylinder base shims not seals and is the only place that it's OK to use RTV.

Throw the head gaskets in the scrap pile and lap your cylinders/heads.

I respectfully disagree. This is an ongoing argument here on 914World based on a VW tech bulletin that was written for the VW bus. Some people take it to meal all the Type IV engines, but now where in that tech bulletin was anything written about the 914 engine. There we manufacturing changes between the 914 engine and the later bus engine. I have asked Ed Mayo, Lyle Cherry and a number of other people who build 914 engines, and none of them lap the jugs into the heads. They use the head gaskets.

I use the head gaskets, and have NEVER had a problem.

W W J D ?????

( what would jake do )


Jaxdream

ok I did another search and I guess this is a heated debate. I guess I need to pull the head off and see what the previous owner did , or maybe someone knows I know that the engine he built before had oil problems, Im just guessing but there were screw driver marks in the push tube holes in the heads, these marks tore the seals and it looks like it was taken apart on 1 side and blue RTV was smeared all over in a attempt to seal it up. I am pretty sure he did this after he got it back in the car as theer is blue RTV everywhere, and it wasent cleaned very well as it didnt stick to anything. So what I'm getting at is I dont know if it was done right.. if there arent any gaskets did he check anything or the mating surface? who knows There was also a severely bent push rod. so bad you can see ,it was rubbing the tube.. This is Why I'm second guessing what was done previously. You guys know alot more about these engine than me ,

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should I be able to see if there was a gasket? looking at the cylinder to head or case it looks flush metal to metal,, but a odd thing I see it that on 1 of the jugs the last fin closest to the case is closer to the case then another jug . see pictures is that normal? first pic notice the fin distance to case is much larger than the second pic Is this a big deal? or normalClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

... what makes you think it,s a 2.0 engine? what is the crankcase (engine) code number?......Appears that you have a little bit of a mess to strighten up...but before scurring off to locate parts, KNOW WHAT engine you have first., what bore size it is, what stroke, does it have "head spacers"..aka (head seals) does it have cylinder barrell spacers/shimms/seals?...how do you know the pushrod is bent?(roll test on glass,and it rolls funny?...if so THAT particular cam follower is usually defective and all the others should be replaced....(engine probably got overreved.). find out what you have first... lots of people here can provide help....

the push rod is visually bent at least a 1/8" in the middle so it rolls real funny. The number stamped on top of case is GC 004937. I was Told it was a 2.0 by PO a member on here he had just done the engine .. this is directly from his listing
Good:
Freshly rebuilt 2.0 with mild Raby cam, freshly rebuilt 1.7 heads instead of 2.0
Dual Weber 40 carbs
HD Oil Pump
5 Powder coated and powder cleared Fuchs
Electric rear trunk release
Interior is in fairly good shape
Turbo tie rod conversion
Bump steer kit
New ball joints
All new front bushings
Almost new tires
New battery tray