The exhaust stud broke off. It has about an inch showing out of the cylinder (but does not have threads)..

How to remove? I know this has happened before and you will have the perfect solution so I am waiting patiently.. I know these are never easy.

Remember, there are no threads left (cannot use two nuts sandwiched together) so I would like to try and get some sort of broken screw removal tool to fix... and would like to find a local alternative so I can fix over the weekend if possible.

Thanks for the help in advance,
Bryan

If it's rusted in place, try "Blaster" for starters. It takes a few hours to work. I've had good luck with the stuff.

I had one that was frozen super tight. I tried welding a nut to the end, but it was tight enough to just break the nut off. I ended up welding a piece of flat bar along side it so I could get a good strong weld. Then a big crescent wrench on the flatbar.

Here's the process that made it work though:
Heated the stud and area with a map gas torch.
Sprayed it with PB Blaster.
Tried turning it... But not so hard that it might break.
Repeat repeat repeat... It took several cycles of heat and penetrant before it would budge.
Once it budged, I didn't just try to screw it all the way out. Turned until it started binding, then back & forth. A little more each time.

Then the problem was it took some of the threads out... The aluminum galled and stuck in the threads of the stud, rendering the hole useless. I had to tap it the next size larger and use a step stud.

Old thread here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=85775

Thanks again guys,

I have no rust as it has been a desert car it's entire life. I have already sprayed with lubricant and was hoping to just grab the end with a broken removal tool and go from there.. not able to weld unless I have someone come over to do it for me.

Thoughts?

Bryan

Vice grips or a pipe wrench. Heat. penetrating oil. Wrap a wet towel around what is left of the stud while you put the MAPP torch to the boss. Try to get the boss to expand while the stud does not. Turn with the vice-grips.

Zach

Also, keep this in mind:
Penetrating oil ..... Average torque
None ................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ............... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .......... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ....... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .......... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix ..... 53 pounds

The BEST penetrating oil is a 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone. PB Blaster is no more good then WD40.

Zach

You ever tried to get a pipe wrench up close and personal to a 914 exhaust stud? Or Vise Grips? GOOD LUCK!

The Cap'n

... Use penetrating oil, in coupious amounts,and let it soak in awhile...then get a propane burner/torch...(you probably got one). Heat the ALUNIMUM ..around the stud...but not the stud...you want it as cold as possable. Use stud removal tool carefully, a little movent at a time, back and forth.(in and out). reapply more penetrating oil at the stud base while the alunimum is hot.*(can/will cause smoke)...GENTLY tapping the stud (vertically to the hole).with a small hammer will help the penetrating oil seep down the threads,,,.REPEAT until it..(finally) screws out. note: welding, (anything) a nut to the stud only makes the stud weaker.(anealed) and far more prone to breaking off. finally, if you expect or want this job done fast...forget it. a competant automotive machine shop can do this job, if they will. us postage to H.A.M.in Agusta Georgia could be your best bet. To consider. Murray

Two ways that IC.
Get a stud extractor...it looks like a socket.
OR
Jamb a nut on there and weld inside the inner part of the nut to the stud.

Once its cooled, use PB Blaster and turn it in and out very little, then heat, then PB blaster...rinse and repeat.

Its really a PITA to get in there so I would suggest welding a nut on the end.
Stud extractors would need to be purchased from a decent online tool supply firm, or snapon...they are not a sears item.

Rich

Been there, done that. Here's the link: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91292

Sears sells a nut/bolt extractor set. They're basically a hardened socket with teeth that cut into the side of the stud so you can torque it out. You need to hammer it on.

All previous advice about heat and penetrant apply.

Problem solved. Welded a nut on the end of the stud, heated the case for no less than 10 seconds and it came right out... like it was a brand new stud.

Thanks for all the help,
Bryan