I do like the older OSP controls, the new ones seem complictaed to me with the new panel. MC50VA i'll bet. Still, nothing wrong with a good old reliable Fanuc. I could see why you'd want Okuma, they are built in Nagoya.

OK, now I need help.

I've found different options for collets to replace the drill chuck. I've got a 3/8 - 16 draw bar.

There are these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

But how do I 'clamp' with them?

Then there are the ER32 and ER25 MT2 collet holders from Hong Kong:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

along with the collet sets:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SHARS-PRECISION-ER32-C...=item518cbbf19f

Which is the best way to go? (I'm open to links from other sources, also)

How about creating an emblem for those with Jake's 2270 engine. A 2.27 seems overdone; maybe a 2.3, or 2.3 - 4

Thanks

For testing programs get some "Machineable Wax" It's harder than candle wax and you can re-melt it.

http://www.machinablewax.com/

Ok, ER is a STD collet now days, where a MT (morse taper)2 is not. However, you would need to clamp a ER in a MT2, since that is what your machine is designed for. I would go with MT2 collets for what you are doing. The drawbar just threads in to the back of the collet and sucks it up in to the spindle. The taper on the OD of the collet will "crimp" the cutting tool and hold it very well.

And, ER32 is too big for what you want. You'd want a smaller ER i think. ER20, or even a 16.

Great! Thank you. =o) I'm currently the winning bidder for the MT2 collet set (hopefully it stays that way).

That's going off of your recommendations. thank you again.

Thank you!! I will certainly keep that in mind. =o)

Got some test tools coming my way. I'll pick them up this week.

My machinist friend here in town has been working on my stepper motor mounts.

I thought I'd add a couple of pictures of it as my path to making the emblems progress.

Hey that there LoveJoy coupler you are using. Do you ruin lots of the rubber inserts by having space between them like that? I use L075's on my gold dredge. If there is ANY space there, I'll eat two rubber inserts per day.

That's a picture of progress of it being built and fitted. It hasn't been run at all with the steppers attached. take a closer look at the pictures and you can see how the mounts are adjustable. The gap for the lovejoys will disappear.

I have some used but excellent condition 6mm and 8mm roughing and end mills I don't need any more I could let you have...maybe in exchange for a couple of those green Matchbox 914 cars sold in the US now.

I'll find a couple. PM your address to me.

Here we go! My mill is now set up with the cnc stuff. My XP box (yellow computer under the Wii) is running the mill and the 3d scanner.

in this picture I'm scanning a wheel that BKLA sent to me. (thank you, for the use of the parts to scan!)

The end mills that underthetire offered showed up as well, and thank you for them, as well. they are certainly appreciated.

The other picture was the first thing that I carved with the mini mill; it's my 5 year old's name. He was all excited that we had the machine set up and was once again begging me to build Wall-E. We carved his name out instead.

(I drink out of canning jars, I make sure to drink a LOT of water)

oops. dbl post.

here is a picture of the scanner screen while it scanned/aligned the first round of scans for the wheel.

this is going to get edited and turned into a Fuchs, then machined out of aluminum. (or plastic, wood, or wax for the first couple runs, to make sure i have the code right)

When are you gonna send me the electronic assembly to build?

mid-april. I have to order some more pieces parts for it and print out the instructions again.

Hey, I forgot about this post. Good to see you got it going...I still have some end mills for you (in 6 and 8mm) roughing and finishing end mills and also some 3D ball end mills in 4 (2R), 6(3R), 8(4R) and 10(5R) I can let you have, they are used but in excellent shape....I still need those wheels for the RC cars....hint hint

RJM11,
That is so cool! I got a Taig mini-lathe 6 or 7 years ago. Nice to have when you need a custom bushing made, etc. I guess you know a mill can be used like a lathe also? You can go to the TAIG web pages and gets LOTS of info on mini-lathes and mini-mills.
Have fun,
Tom

Not to make any of you sick, cause I know i was, a guy here bought 3 Hardinge tool room lathes from our company auction for 1500.00! Another guy picked up a small Hurco CNC 3 axis mill for 500 bucks. ( small as in 15X25 travel). Wish I had a garage i owned !

almost ready to start taking pre-orders.

I'm getting much closer, and am able to carve the 914-8 out of wood.

@Tom; thanks for the tip! The electronic piece that is going off to Dr Evil is my 4 axis controller. The wheels will be getting made on the setup you're referring to. i'll look over the Taig site for sure, anything that helps me learn the easy way is a good thing.

@underthetire... sounds like a couple of people scored some really good deals. how often are the company auctions?

Once a month. I need to get on the list myself. There is some really nice slightly older machines heading over to the recycling center this week through next month.