Well,

Working on the 914 again, and was making room for an EMC so, I removed the backpad, and this is what I found.

Well, I had seen the panel from the engine compartment, and knew it was there.

So, here's the hole:

Click to view attachment

And the cover, WTF? Farmer bob did this one?

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Ok. It works, and I am not the best craftsman, as I have done a couple of, eh, quick-fixes for a problem, which I fixed later.

So, put it back? Rather not. Any ideas?

-- brett


BTW, the PO also put an access panel in for the starter.

Click to view attachment

This will be used for the remote battery. I will clean up and make something for it. The battery cable is temporarily there...

(just made a minor edit. I said timing, when I meant fan! Doh.)

Many /6 guys cut a hole there so they can set the timing. The cover is a hack but an easy fix.
Starter hole on the other hand is a total hack.

I haven't cut the access hole in my firewall (there is a reason they call this a 'fire' wall!), but anytime you have to change a fan belt, you will be very tempted to do so.

The timing can be set by using the marks on the flywheel, so that's not a problem. However, changing the fanbelt is best accomplished by this easy step by step approach:

1. Drop engine
2. Change fanbelt
3. Reinstall engine

I was looking at photos of Randhal's car, and he has a nice cover. I will probably replicate what he did.

Starter access hole, I am going to have to think about that one a bit. Also, found some covered up rust in the trunk.

PO did a good job of hiding things....

-- brett

I put a nice hole in my firewall and made a nice diamond plate cover for it. It was a nice thing to have and so long as your cover is not plastic (melt) and is fastened in place some how, it will still act as a fire barrier

Some pics of Pcar916's cover. I need to make one for my car as I threw a belt at a DE last fall and it is a PITA to change it without one...

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I cut a decent sized opening in my firewall for my /6 conversion. The piece I cut out I welded to another larger piece of metal that overlapped the cutout so no concern in case of a fire. I installed rubber threaded inserts and use 6x32 screws that have a flat head and chrome finishing washers. Now I just need to finish the firewall.

Having lived through an engine fire in a 914, I want all the protection I can get!!!!!

I'm not for cutting holes in the firewall of a 914. But, 986's have a very nice acess panel just for changing the belt. I think if you do it right, probably be okay.

That to me would mean lots of bolts to hold the cover in place, not sheet metal screws, little nuts welded on the backside, bolts to hold the cover on ect. It would take cuting the hole you wanted and getting a donor 914 to cut the same hole again with an extra 1/2" lip so it would become a proper cover over the hole you cut.

If you get a chance, go look at a Boxster in a wrecking yard. You'll get the idea.

My access hole pictured above by JT9146 uses Dzus fittings, not bolts or screws. I like repeatable!

Click to view attachment

I think I'm using ~ 8 Dzus clips (I'm not where the car is right now). My feeling is if you're cutting a hole then cut a real one that won't trap your hands as you work.

The metal cover slips in and out under the cage crossbar as well. 2-inch, closed cell tape on the panel and sheet metal edge mouldings make for a very tight fit.

Good luck

There you go!

That looks like something that would actually keep you safe from fire.

The fasteners you're using are fine to me. I just didn't want people to think I meant self-tapping screws was all.

Yep, those things have their places though. Life is better with 'em than without 'em. All it took was one belt problem to convince me a hole was required.

Strangely enough it was a dry-cleaner bag. You know those, the really thin plastic ones?

I'll bet you folks didn't know an entire bag will wrap itself UNDER the belt in the V-channel. Neither did I when I put the bag over the (then) carbs to keep the rain off of the motor while in a mall. Raised the belt up about 1/4 in. But it didn't break or shred.

One should remember to take the bag off the engine before starting the car... Oh yes. Take it off. Don't let that inch of snow that wasn't on the car when you went into the mall distract you just because you live in a very hilly neighborhood and you have shaved DOT tires on the car.

Like I told "Shorty" (Clay Perrine), If I get burned because of a hole that I cut in the firewall and then covered with a metal plate, I wasn't smart enough to get out of the car when it was on fire. Geeeeze!

as good as the idea sounds on paper, there would have to be some way to make sure it was closed up enough with a material comparable to the steel that was removed..

imo you'd have to make some sort of fire-gasket there too. and make sure it's air tight, so if there WAS a fire it couldn't get into the cabin.

That's a good idea. The steel internals of my edge mouldings (flame would have to get through two of them) will help for a while but the material that goes around the doors of our ovens will work better until there's a real NOMEX (or something like it) barrier.. That's easy and fast to fix. Cool

I really think you guys are over thinking this access cover. Cut the hole and save the piece you cut out. Get another piece of steel the same thickness and cut it about an inch or two larger. Mount to firewall as you wish. If the car catches fire pull over to side of road, undo the seatbelt and get the hell out ! That's the important part ! If after 2-3 minutes the car is engulfed in flames I doubt your biggest concern is going to be the access cover.

Evidently the really tough part is actually noticing the car is on fire! Since the "hot bits" are behind you, and when you're at speed they don't throw off enough smoke to be immediately obvious, you may be using up part of your 2-3 minutes without ever knowing it...

--DD

Here's a shot of my access panel. I covered the firewall edge with a nylon gasket to prevent cuts when trying to work on the 3.2. I used the material cut from the firewall and welded a border on to it. Then I glued a gasket onto the back and secured it to the firewall with 8 screws.Click to view attachment

Mike

Here's another view, this view is obviously from the engine compartment.Click to view attachment

That white thingy is a PVC grate, that plugs up the heater fan system but still allows some airflow. I am using headers, not heat exchangers, so the heat system in my conversion is all electric. 12v RV hair dryers provide defrost, an aircraft heater provides footwell warmth, and heated seats warm the keister. So when I burn up my alternator, it'll be a good thing I have this access panel.

Yep that's a piece of wood holding up my GT engine cover.

Mike

I think I might have the lightest one (aluminum):

covering:

Ok. That one I really like. TIme to get the metal get one made. Thanks for all the input and great ideas!

-- brett

Click to view attachmentThis cutout was made for the horizontal fan bi-turbo in the black six. There is enough room for timing, alternator adj., wiring access and distributor removal.
A new sheet metal cover ( same contour as orig. shape) was fab'd and installs with sheet metal screws.
I like the green coverplate "John Deere" look !
Marty

Best way to change the belt on a 6 is take the rear trunk lid off, get up in the trunk and you can easily change the belt and tensioners.

aluminum also has the lowest melting point...

But it's fine for a race car. Why? Because you have flag stations, fire extinguishers, a flame-retardant suit, and so on.

Once again, we see that what makes for a good race car and what makes for a good street car are two different things.

--DD

There is a pretty old thread somewhere about this. It was hashed out back then as well.

Before you go cutting, go find a 986 and see what the FACTORY did. If nothing else, it should also give you some ideas on what is safe.

Whatever you do don't spend more than a couple of hours doing it. Then DRIVE!