Thank you! It looked wrong. I will fix it tommorow. Man I would be toast without you guys

Hope that's not blue RTV...

If it is, that's a plugged oil passage waiting to happen.....

I think Jamie sneezed was all.

Okay I am going to go adjust my valves for the first time. Pitiful I know. Doesn't look to hard but I don't see which valve is the intake & which is the exhaust Use my picture to know how it's sitting above. It doesn't specify that in my haynes. Or on the pelican tech article. I have previously just paid to have someone else do it

The intakes are the 2 center valves. The exhaust are the 2 outer valves. You can see the intake valves through the intake ports in your photo.

This hasn't been talked about here but..someone in the know needs to chime in.

It's something that JRust might need to know before he get's too much further.

I've been told to get the right torque on the lifter bolts, each valve needs to be at (tdc, etc) a special place. Otherwise, you're torquing against an open valve and the lifters will be loose after that valve moves.

Is this right or wrong?

Look at which one leads to the exhaust and which leads to the intake and you will have it figured out. Dont stress so much. You are doing awesome and asking good questions.

As long as he follows the haynes manual, he will be fine.

Got it thanks. I do have my haynes manual not to mention Pelican great tech article on doing the valve job. Kind of strange the haynes manual just says to adjust the valves & how to do it. Yet doesn't tell you what teh valve clearance should be. Pelicans tech article spells it out nicely. Valve clearances are .15mm intake & .20mm exhaust. That sound right?

I have no problem asking questions. Sometimes they may seem a little dumb. I don't care as I just want to get it right. I'm getting excited to get it all back together.

Thank God we are here then 'cause Toast is much better looking than you

Jamie,
If you run short on time getting it all together , just get all the basics connected and bring up all your FI parts & your carb setup when you trailer your car and I'm sure there are plenty of people that would be more than glad to turn a wrench in Tahoe . I am really looking forward to seeing your car.

On a side note...have you talked to people in the know what needs to be done to startup and break-in an aircooled motor. Not sure on our motors, but there are often additives needed for proper cam breakin, etc, etc.
Mark

Jamie

I've never seen where the piston has to be at TDC but, it can't hurt and the reasoning seems sound. Just be careful when you torque the nuts. The torque value is silly small. I can't remember it off hand but, it is easy to spin the studs.

Dave

Okay I got my valve's set fine. I put everything back together & have my tin back on. It's ready for the SS HE to be bolted back on (VERY CAREFULLY ). I started putting my FI on. I had to pull the cylinder head temp sensor off my 73 as this one didn't have it. No problem although I had to pull the tin AGAIN. LOL

I did notice between going from one motor to the other. My LE motor has the distributor sitting 1/4 turn differently than my 73. I am sure it is wrong on my 74. My friend who rebuilt it for me apparantlt got it in wrong. I need to fix it but am not entirely sure how to do it without completely screwing things up . Here are pics

Are your block and fan shroud painted or just that clean? Looks nice either way...

Yeah just painted with the rebuild. Only wish I had done the same when I did the tranny. It looks like $hit compared to the motor