Just finished putting new push rod seals in for the first time and hopefully this will end the drip drip drip. I never bought a 1/4" torque wrench cause it looked to sissy. Big manley 1/2 and 3/8 in the tool box. I picked up the 10ft lb's setting from Haynes to torque the nuts holding on the rocker assembly. On the 3/8 it felt like I was barely tightening the nuts, but it clicked. Almost no old fashion arm strong feel to know how tight the nut really was.

Is there enough use for a 1/4 torque wrench to justify buying one?

On the same topic, do socket extensions or universal joints change the torque setting over just the socket?

Thanks Tool Guys!

Hold the extension as close to perpendicular as possible with your free hand without restricting anything. It will not greatly affect the torque reading. If you tilt it, it will make a difference. I've always had the belief that my gauging of perpendicular was within the accuracy of the wrench torque setting calibrations.

Do you really need an excuse to buy a new tool?

Having a good collection of torque wrenches is a necessity. I have 4 in my tool box. a 1/2 inch drive, for the big stuff, a 3/8 drive for smaller stuff, a 3.8 drive in inch/lbs for the really small stuff , and a beam type 1/2 inch.

I want to get either a beam type or dial type inch pound torque wrench for transmission work.


And remember, always unwind the torque wrench to the minimum setting or be prepared to get it re calibrated regularly.

YES I feeel the need for tools.
Clay what's a beam torque wrench? Also I've never heard anywhere to unwind the wrench but it makes sense. I've been told to go to a lighter setting before use and click it both ways a couple of times. Going out to unwind mine right now. Tools. Yahoo!

A beam type has a pointer and a horizontal dial.

I bought one of these from Gear Wrench about 1.5 years ago and absolutely love it. Since it uses strain gauge technology you don't have to worry about forgetting to back the handle off after you use it and screwing up the calibration. The 3/8" is good from like 7-100 ft/lbs which covers everything with these motors. Worth every penny in my book.

BTW Gear Wrench also makes them for the Craftsman brand at Sears. Just a slightly different looking grip.

I have all three sizes from Snap-on. My 1/2" is a dial gauge but the other two are twist.

I think they are worth every dollar when putting things that need to be exact. Other stuff...just zip it together with air tools

In aluminum or alloys I can't get by without torque wrenches. The suby manual has some erroneous torque specs and the young guys screw up regularly because they lack the experience of whats usually about right. For instance 7 inch pounds or 7 ft lbs. 14 inch pounds or 14 ft lbs? The cam saddle caps bolt threads in the heads get messed up the most probably. I think torque wrenches are the most accurate in the middle of their rangs. Also don't forget the thread lube. Torque specs are for lubed threads not dry. I had a airforce guy claim that helicopters used torque specs on dry threads. I don't know but I think he was high the day they talked about torque specs. He actually had a job on my predictive maintenance crew in industrial maintenance. Good thing he wasn't torqing any thing at work other than his opinion.

So lug bolts are suppose to be dressed if you torque them?

Wait, what? They are only for lubed threads? I'm no rookie but I know I have pleanty to learn. However, I've never heard this before.

Unless things have changed drastically since I was and F105 crew chief, you won't find any oiled bolts on aircraft.

Don't drop your click style wrench or it will have to be re-calibrated.

How can we tell if the wrench in in calibration and who calibrates them?

Tool guys can tell... My Snap-on guy has a gauge handy for testing. This is one reason I like the dial type better.