Is there any relationship between idle speed and gear grinding when going into 1st and Reverse? My car idles a little over 1000 rpm and it is now tough getting into 1st when stoppoing at intersection. Makes a hell of a racket.
It never did this before it was put away last yr.
Can this grinding be adjusted out by the clutch adjustment? Clutch pedal is pretty soft and mushy. It engages right off the floor.
How do you know if clutch tube is broken? Car shifts ok into 2-5 and back down.
Is this a synchro problem?
Sorry for alll the questions. Just trying to figure out what to look at first.
Figured someone out there has run into this already. Thanks

Adjust the clutch. It sounds like the linkage is a little out of alignment as first and reverse are on the same line. Someone else can jump in on the best way to adjust it. I have always done small adjustments, drive, adjust, etc. until it feels right.

The higher idle doesn't do your transmission any favors, but the symptoms point to a clutch that is out of adjustment. And possibly in need of replacement. And/or possibly a clutch tube in need of help.

Look through the holes in the top of the center tunnel (e.g., where the gear shift lever goes through, and where the heater lever was before you removed it to be able to see). Can you see the clutch tube moving from side to side when you push the pedal down?

--DD

I have always found that if you put your car in first gear as you come to a stop (still rolling slowly) it is easier on the tranny than putting it into first gear from a dead stop. Try it and see what you think....

Clutch drag due to any of the aforementioned issues. Where in the pushing in of your clutch pedal does the clutch disengage?

In response to Dr Evil question, I'm not sure at what point the clutch disengages when pushing it in. Never really thought about it. I'll have to chk that out.
That said, what diff does it make if it disengages at the top of the pedal travel OR just off the floor??? I know it engages right off the floor. Thanks.

I'm inteterested in comments about this too. I do know that if it engages right off the floor, it's too loose. I have this same thing in my car and mine engages near the top. But I'm going to tighten mine up more so it engages nearer to the top. I think the pedal is supposed to have about 1/2 inch of travel at the top?

Yep. If it's too close to the floor/cable too loose, it may "seem" like it disengages, but any warp-age at all will cause problems.

At the floor = inadequate disengagement. This = drag on the clutch disk and grinding.

Guys,
In my four I had the cable replaced with a terry cable,They had to shim
the rear fork area w/ many washers,mine disengages almost to the
floor,The tube was repaired years ago,Can the terry cable just be too
long??The cable goes around the oil filter back side looped if it moves
from that position the clutch drops to the floor,That is why I think
the cable is Too long.Can you take in more adjustment at the peddle
area? To compensate the fork adjustment??
914

Yes, Terry is too long, but easily remedied by inserting a piece of tubing under the adjust nut.

Dr.Evil,
Thats where they put about 10 washers still almost to floor,Should I get another cable,Is there a problem with terry cables,Thanks for the reply..
914

When you get to 4+ washers, it is time to change to a section of tubing. You can use a section of 1"-1.5"(or what ever size you need) tube cut from a cheap stock piece. It will make your clutch completely usable.