I purchased an after-market efi system from a southeast coast supplier as a turn key system for a 914.

They came without manifolds, without adapter extensions to clear the fuel rails, without linkage, and without filters.

I have contacted this supplier many times and have yet to get a straight answer or proper direction to find a solution. So I purchased the CB Performance 914 linkage kit and the throttle extensions directly from TWM .

Problem is the CBs linkage does not have the same bolt pattern as the throttles and TWM has no clue what will fit them.

I have spent more than $400 more over the "turnkey" price of nearly $4000 to make these work. I am left in the dark and with any help from the suppliers on how to make this system fly.

My question is: Does anyone know what my options are? With over $4000 invested I am left hanging. I need to get this remedied I have too much invested at this point.

I figured 914 World can help me out, for I have exhausted all my other options.

Pictures? Might help in seeing what you need. SDS should also be very helpful.

-- brett

Do you have IDF or IDA style throttle bodies?

What is the difference between IDF and IDA?? Is it the bolt patern?

What kind of " turn key " kit doesn't contain all the parts needed ? I assume you have contacted them and they said what ? And who is it so others can stay away !!!

They use different manifolds, and the air cleaner studs are different.

IDF

IDF's Mark

They said everyone has different application, but i'd like to know how many applications there are for a 914.

Your core problem is how to mount the throttle linkage?
If that is correct, post a picture of both the throttle bodies and the air cleaner base (you got from CB)

There are many choices for throttle linkage setups.

Rich

You're link is to the TWM homepage where they list both IDF and IDA style throttle bodies. I'm assuming you're cross referencing a part number or something?

We're gonna need a lot more information/pictures to help you out.

box it up, send it back.
run carbs for now.
these guys may not know how big the 914 market could be for a clean, well engineered system- i know i'd rather run a more modern efi setup.
gl
thefleur

The CB air cleaners and linkage won't fit, although the base of the TMW TB will be the "IDF" pattern the top, the part that bolts to the air filter and linkage is the wrong pattern.

You most likely need to use a bell crank type linkage and the little K&N single barrel filters.

Not meaning to hijack your thread, but, since we are on the topic, how do the CB throttle bodies/manifolds stack up as compared to others like the TWM and the other ones from Jenvey? I like the fact that CB has the pressurized hats for a turbo set up. Does anyone make them for TWM's?

Thanks

Rob

i have a set of cb talls that have 2 different sets of stud holes for the carb mount and will work for either the 3 or 4 bolt heads. are yours the same? $4.4k for a fi setup-ZIOKS!!!

Im just looking for one

They bolt up fine off the manifolds. They bolt up fine to the throttles. It is bolting the CB linkage/filters that in question. And yeah for that money you would think you would get help.

Ouch! For $4k I would build you one of my efi systems and then fly out and install the thing myself. I can not believe they are not supporting you on this.

Post some pictures, it might help with figuring out a solution...

Here's the pic. I decided to just redrill holes in the that was suggested.

Okay NOW here it is

apologies in advance for this one, and it is purely my feeble opinion...

you have put what i think is the cheapestly engineered and produced linkage system on an ultra high end fi system. here are a few issues i have encountered when i attempted to use one. some people claim to have great success with them. more often than not after frabrication and reengineering.

1 an incomplete setup. as in lack of throttle cable holder. the monster thick baseplates are overkill.

2 the x bar design allows for alot of slop. the pivot balls and springs loaded in the bar, and the offset angularity can allow for side shifting of the bar. this built in feature affects the angle and opperational length of the droplinks. this can allow one set of throttle plates to open earlier than the other set. you may have equal flow at IDLE but when the plates open that goes away.

3 eventually the hardened steel springs in the shaft will cut into the pivot ball adding in more slop. other factors will accelerate this action and you will be tossing and replacing.

4. why is there what appears to be a spacer or velocity stack on the base of the mounting plate? is it a spacer to keep the throttle arm from hitting the base plate?is that a cb product? whatever the case it's appearent the spacer is incompatible with the studs on the TBs.

stepup to a TRAID linkage (based on the old wietmiester). some may complain about its cost, but it WORKS! i don't know if jake raby is producing his cable linkage. it sounded like a good option. maybe the Redline linkage. you're fighting the linkage right from the gitgo. i hope the dialing in process goes smoother.

k

Well thank you gentlemen for coaxing me through a stress session with my 73. i drilled out the CB filter bases to fit the TB's. Dremel with a spur bit and Grey RTV Hahahah no duct tape or wire used is always good. I will keep looking at different throttle controls after this for sure. Now onto the next opportunity.

Joe DiTommaso

Joe -- I am using the Sidewinder bell crank throttle link age. I sell these if your interested. I'll PM you some pictures

Bill Shaffer

Check out the SDS thread listed below, page 4, for pics of the linkage I got from classic speed and parts, here is their site: http://classicandspeedparts.com/ I don't recall the part #, but if you surf their site, or give them a call and describe it, they may still have them. I think it was intended for a 356 if I recall correctly. I did have to add a little length to the rods- initially they were just barely long enough to use the double nut to lock things down, and I had a nut work loose and the rod fall out of the connector to the ITB on one side. Going up a steep hill. And suddenly having 1/2 a motor. Scary. So when I got back, I took the rods to a local welding shop, they added 1/2 an inch or so to the length, and now it works perfectly. Not so pretty as it was before, but hidden down low behind the intercooler, no one has noticed.