Okay so I am putting a nice set of dual weber 40's on the LE. Going to get my break in miles done & drive it while I work on the FI stuff on the side. I get the basics of how to get them on. Was hoping someone could give me a nice step by step so I don't miss anything. Or put it on in the wrong order. I got the complete setup from Rich & he included everything needed except linkage which I picked up.
I allready installed the distributor & the intakes. I know I need to get my car to TDC & make sure my firing order is right.

Okay lay it on me . In simple terms please

Bolting them on is pretty straight forward. The important part would be figuring out how much accelerator cable length you have and where it will be mounted and then you can work the linkage around it. Post up some pics of your carbs and the linkage, and I can help you out...

Buy the weber tech manual. It's worth the money IMHO. It will walk you through the initial carb and linkage setup. Read it until you understand how every aspect of the carb is supposed to work. It makes it much easier.

Here are pics

That fuel pump is going to drive you nuts ...
Andy

Tell me which one to get

Get a rotary, Carter IIRC, but I can't remember the part number. Probably do a forum search and find it easy enough though. I bought mine at a local FLAPS.
Waaaay quieter than that Facet pump!
Mike

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

3.5 PSI iirc

Even if those are new carbs, they could probably use a good cleaning. Look here.

You'd be a lot better off just getting the FI straightened out. You're going to waste a lot of time and money dickin with those carbs.

Don't do it and ruin this "special" car!!!!

Tech manual:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=4


You'll need a synchrometer as well:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572

or

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde...s.asp?RecID=826


Prepare to become a meticulous expert in Webers if you want them to run right.

Float setting is critical because it affects the transition between jets.

Jetting is done via seat of your pants. What works on one motor may not work on your motor.

Idle jets function at more than just idle. Transition to mains is at about 2500-3000 and to air correction jets at 4500-5000 with F11 emulsion tubes

CLEAN EVERYTHING. Even new carbs need to be cleaned. All it takes is one little chunk to come loose and get stuck in one of the many jets.

If you don't have the rain tray on your engine lid installed, make sure to have rain hats over the air filters. Water can get in through the top of the carbs if not sealed up. Rainwater is bad enough. Depending on what you use to wash your car, soapy water is bad news inside a Weber.

I prefer the CBPerformance hex bar setup that integrates the pivot point into the air filter base (PN 3413 and 3414). Makes for a clean installation and no possibility for air to bypass the filter or water to get into the carb. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=547

Make sure the intakes are 100% sealed. Vacuum leaks are not your friend.

Invest in earplugs for DE's. WOT is loud, even through a helmet.

If you understand how Webers work, you'll enjoy them. If not, you won't. I have 2 cars with dual IDFs on them, one of which I have had Webers on for close to 15 years now.

Jamie,
Seems like you should be able to buy a complete "working" FI for a 74 off of someone, including the dizzy. I know your'e baffled, as well as others who looked at your car at the WCR, but I really think getting the FI right is the best for such a rare car as yours--even at the get-go.. A working "stock" FI is pretty much plugnplay, if you don't want to troubleshoot yours.

I assume you have a different dizzy for the carbs?


Good Luck,
Mark

call me or PM. I'll try to help with your FI

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this linkage set up is also common but not my favorite. some prefer forward linkage hex bar placement for easy access. I think rear placemnet is cleanre looking

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Sean, those drawings were you try to equalize everything don't always work, especially on the forward mount hex bar linkage. The reason your images/technique can be quite wrong is that on the hex bar linkage the cross-bar position is not equal on both carburetors. Your 'equalize everything' technique only works if the cross-bar arms are in the same relative position on each carb.

I prefer to simply ignore the measurements aspect, and watch both carbs to make sure they are hitting idle at the same time and hitting WOT at the same time. Then check airflow with a synchrometer at idle and at mid-throttle. When all those things are happening, the carbs are synched, even if the linkages don't measure out to be equal.

I tried to draw it out the first time, and ended up having a heck of a time getting it to work. The last time, I just did it like how Mark said, and I was balanced within 30 minutes.

here is the throttle cable mount I made. Easy, and very strong.


Zach

jamie, if you did not install the phenolic intake gaskets used with the fi system, put some on before you button things up. installing them after the dial in will result in doing the procedure all over again. using the facet pump WILL require a fuel pressure reg and a fp gauge. if you purchase the cb pump, remove the metal canister connected to the pump with a short piece of fuel line and squeeze clamps. it's a fuel filter and will be a pain to change out which you will have to do eventually. i like the large white fi fuel filters with the same size fittings on both sides. note your jetting sizes prior to installing the carbs and write the numbers down in your cb weber book. MUCH easier now that later. if you approximated the same dist rotor positioning during the swap, the timing should be close enough to light the engine off.

Okay thanks for all the tips! I am holding off on carbs.

I've got a guy close to work that know the FI well. I went by to talk with him & he is going to get it working for me. He is even going to take some trade. He needs a 2.0 for his LE. I will let you guys know once I am on the road with it

I'm extremely anxious to see what it was that I missed.

Praise the 914 gods that you have come to your senses!!!

Save the carbs. IF you get tired of spending weeks and more $$$ trying to get the FI to work, you have an alternate.

Me too.

We did not get to check everything, like compression

Thats a big NO for me too! It had me stumped before you guys got to try to figure it out. Of course on a trailer in a parking lot while it's dark is not the best working conditions . I did allready have all my FI off. So it needs to get put back on. I'm going to leave it to him as he may find something I missed putting them on to begin with . Either way I will just be happy to have the damn thing finished. Okay well closer to finished

I have to admit, I was a little bummed to read the decision to go with the carbs. We're all rooting for you!

Going with Carbs was always & only going to be a temporary thing. Just to get my motor broken in & get some miles on it. I was just going to get the FI figured while I was driving it.

Be very interesting to see what makes the FI work. Often times it's that simple, no one would have thought part or wire or connection etc.

Soon.

Well, hopefully, Bruce will see this post. He likes my helpful comments...

How do you expect the mechanic you hired to get his old fat ass er head in to the engine compartment????
If he gets his head in there, he'll have to call for help to get it back out!

Really Bruce is a great guy. The engine for my Nissan pickup finally showed up at his shop today. Yep, I'm pushin' them Porsche's OUT and my Nissan goes in.

not the measurements, just teh angles. its relative geometry L/R. I never said anything about equal measurements or length.
your probably right. I guess the proof is in the results.
some people can learn a proceedure and some learn and understand teh relationships that make a system work

These are good linkage pictures, what kind of linkage is this?

More of it, it's on my engine, haven't seen it used on anything before.

It works really nice, easy to adjust, can't find it new anywhere though.

looks similar to the one I just setup and I agree, very easy to use and adjust. MUCH easier than the hex bar IMO.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...C31-129-941-400

That is very similar. Mine has cast parts for the pivot and arm that bolts onto the block. It's most likely an older kit NLA I'm guessing?

It's very simple, not many parts, not much that needs adjusting. Not sure why I don't see them on more engines?

The other part I like is the only adjustment you have to make is the initial cold, throttle closed distance for the two rods. Once that is set, you're good. As the engine heats up and expands, you leave a little play in the cable adjustment and you never had to worry about throttle plates opening up or linkage binding up.

I actually want to change mine up just a little so it uses factory ball and cup mounts.

Thanks for the link!

shzfdg

To the OP ......... I will take those horribel carbs off your hands ..... and give you money for them ......

It just so happens that I have a special fixture for fabricating that throttle cable bracket.
I also have a fixture to re-index the lever arm on the bellcrank so it works at that angle.

Sean...can you take a picture of your return spring setup? I'm having trouble mounting mine so that it works good and does not get in the way of everything...

Thanks.

Jrust,
What size carbs, just wondering for my project.

Dave

Biosurfer's motor (Brett), who bought it from me, whom I bought it from Jamie, whom Jamie bought it from Craig boxstr and who he bought it from someoneone back east came with that linkage when it came to me. I really like the way it worked and it's simplicity. Not being a carb guy I had asked from numerous people for their opinions on the linkage and everyone told me to get rid of it. The common message was I would constantly have problems with keeping the carbs in sync once the motor warmed-up. Their reasoning is as our air cooled motors heat up, the parts expand and at different rates due to some parts running hotter than others, like the different heads. Since the bell crank is fixed, not floating, the expansion pulls differently on the different rods changing the pull on the webers. I heard this from several independent people. I have no idea if it's true or not, but it kind of made sense to me so I replaced the linkage with a CB kit. Never did start the engine.

Ah, but that's exactly why this set-up seems so good from a mechanical point of view. It doesn't care if the engine expands or contracts moving the carbs farther away or closer together. That's the beauty of it.

Kinda hard to explain, but when you see it in action, you can see it work.

Very simple.

Very easy to adjust (set up cold, not hot).

Fewer parts.

I could be totally wrong myself, but I've had quite a few years with carbs on 911 engines, bugs, 914's etc and after seeing this linkage, I like it best.