This came in one of my email adds. It might be ok but I think the cavity still needs to be cleaned out and all excess flaking and bubbling rust and dirt removed first. The easyway would be to stick the sandblast nozzle up in it. Personally I will just use brush on coldgalvanizing if I can get to the area followed by a wax covering. I might use this on barely starting to rust areas after flushing them with a good cleaner and then metalready, then another flush and maybe this stuff. I haven't got any yet and haven't read the inst either to see if a follow up wax coat would help.
Just thought a few of you might be interested. Critics are welcome
Oops forgot the link: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...tm_medium=email
Full Version: Internal cavity protection (IN CARS)
Got the same email, thought it looked good so I asked a few questions.
"I just got an email about your internal frame coating product, looks good. How does it compare to your Heavy Duty Anti-Rust though? When would you suggest to use one over the other? What testing was completed on the Internal Frame Coating product to prove that it does work as advertised?"
Here are the answers:
1. The main difference between the heavy duty anti rust and the IFC is the effectiveness of creeping, what that means is over time the IFC creeps into areas and coats and protects where as the anti rust does not creep at all.
2. I would use the IFC on areas of a frame that you need thin sprayable coating that can reach all those hard to reach areas. thats right the IFC is a very thin, which was formualted like that for one purpose, to be able to flow into very small and tight areas, where other products such as the anti rust would stop due to a heavier viscosity.
3. As for testing I will follow up with you with an additional E-Mail when Ican meet with a product manager and find out the details.
Follow up:
"Thanks for your answers, this does help. Do you recommend any sort of prep before applying the IFC? Clearly it is tough to do much of anything in enclosed spaces, but should attempts be made to get out rust flakes? Clean/degrease?"
Response:
"No prep work inside the frame is needed. however if I was doing the work I would try my best by blowing out as much debris with an air hose and/or flush as much as I could out of the frame. This process may not be as easy as it sounds as some frames don’t have many exit ports."
I don't buy the no prep work but this product does still sound like it could be good.
-Chris
"I just got an email about your internal frame coating product, looks good. How does it compare to your Heavy Duty Anti-Rust though? When would you suggest to use one over the other? What testing was completed on the Internal Frame Coating product to prove that it does work as advertised?"
Here are the answers:
1. The main difference between the heavy duty anti rust and the IFC is the effectiveness of creeping, what that means is over time the IFC creeps into areas and coats and protects where as the anti rust does not creep at all.
2. I would use the IFC on areas of a frame that you need thin sprayable coating that can reach all those hard to reach areas. thats right the IFC is a very thin, which was formualted like that for one purpose, to be able to flow into very small and tight areas, where other products such as the anti rust would stop due to a heavier viscosity.
3. As for testing I will follow up with you with an additional E-Mail when Ican meet with a product manager and find out the details.
Follow up:
"Thanks for your answers, this does help. Do you recommend any sort of prep before applying the IFC? Clearly it is tough to do much of anything in enclosed spaces, but should attempts be made to get out rust flakes? Clean/degrease?"
Response:
"No prep work inside the frame is needed. however if I was doing the work I would try my best by blowing out as much debris with an air hose and/or flush as much as I could out of the frame. This process may not be as easy as it sounds as some frames don’t have many exit ports."
I don't buy the no prep work but this product does still sound like it could be good.
-Chris
Eastwood chemicals are shit, they ruined two of my cars with there crappyt no refolmulated rust converter. the shit actually promoes rust, it is worse than salt water. ever scrath it and you will see massive deep pitted rust.
Eastwood is NOT a car refinish company, they sell cheapo stuff to home hobbiests. if you want good automotive chemicals, go with a name brand like PPG or 3m use the stuff real shops ar using. not some shade tree backyard mechanic mumbo jumbo chemical made by a cheapo mailorder company. I would think PPG or 3M spends more on lab testing and developing sealers and such than eastwoods profits are for a year.
bewarey of eastwood chemicals. they make rust converters that fail (they kept seeling the shit tilll the supplys were gone, dispite many many customer complaints, they even acknowledged to me that had a probelm, yet still sold it!!!)
there chassis black paint never ever seems to full dry either.
dont buy eastwood junk, cheap crappy coatings, they have no quality control, and continue to sell products that damage customer cars dispite knowledge of the problems. we all can make mistyakes, but eastwwod kept making them.
low budget junk does not belong on your Porsche. avoid there shit!
Eastwood is NOT a car refinish company, they sell cheapo stuff to home hobbiests. if you want good automotive chemicals, go with a name brand like PPG or 3m use the stuff real shops ar using. not some shade tree backyard mechanic mumbo jumbo chemical made by a cheapo mailorder company. I would think PPG or 3M spends more on lab testing and developing sealers and such than eastwoods profits are for a year.
bewarey of eastwood chemicals. they make rust converters that fail (they kept seeling the shit tilll the supplys were gone, dispite many many customer complaints, they even acknowledged to me that had a probelm, yet still sold it!!!)
there chassis black paint never ever seems to full dry either.
dont buy eastwood junk, cheap crappy coatings, they have no quality control, and continue to sell products that damage customer cars dispite knowledge of the problems. we all can make mistyakes, but eastwwod kept making them.
low budget junk does not belong on your Porsche. avoid there shit!
I plan to do the box sections when finished in Dinitrol http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/
I have used several eastwood products and have had good results. There will never be a sprayon easy fix for rust but a sealed cavity is tough to work with and if I can get a coating that will at least stop further rusting then I have helped some over doing nothing. The only time I use a ospho type rust treatment is after I have removed as much rust as I can to begin with.
I agree dinitrol is better than nothing but I may try this eastwood product.
I agree dinitrol is better than nothing but I may try this eastwood product.
Here's a brief description of what I do.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...osion+treatment
I've had very good results using Eastwood products, sorry you've had trouble RealRed914.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...osion+treatment
I've had very good results using Eastwood products, sorry you've had trouble RealRed914.
Great thread Perry 
The more I read the more I need to do 
The more I read the more I need to do
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