The saga continues. I know I have another thread started regarding my brake bleeding hell, but started a new thread since it's a specific question.

Rebuilt calipers. Each caliper has at least one bleeder valve that is leaking. All four of them are leaking at the bleeder at the top of the caliper, possibly lower ones to, but with the amount of fluid coming from the top and dripping down past the lower bleeder, it's hard to tell.

I don't want to over tighten them, but they are very snug and still leak. To the point where the calipers drip if I pump the brakes. This is probably why I can't get a totally firm pedal. It's definitely not helping.

Before I put the calipers on the car, I asked here if I needed to put anything on the threads and I received a big 'NO' from someone. Was this correct advice, or should I have put something on the threads to keep them from leaking?

If the bleeders are snug, try to determine if the fluid is coming from the threads or the valve.........I would have to say try a little tighter....I know that the bleeders can at times be very hard to loosen using the little 7 mm wrench, but you should be able to stop the flow with it. On another note have the bleeders been replaced with something different?

Leaks are definitely coming from the threads.
They were replaced with the replated ones that came with the rebuilt calipers. And they are screwed in very tight now. Any tighter and I fear I'll damage the threads. Yet still leaking.

Maybr it's a good idea to let the rebuilder know of your problems/concerns before you go much further.

Metric bleeders ??? did you put new bleeders on your rebuild calipers ,,,kinda sounds like you have the wrong threads !hope you didnt damage the new rebuilds....just read you did get new bleeders

Fuch, I hope the threads aren't stripped in some way. Or maybe the rebuilt calipers had bad threads/pitted threads to begin with? I just remembered that I kept and reused a few of the bleeders from my old calipers because they were in better shape than the ones I got with the rebuilt calipers. I can't imagine that there would be a problem with them if they worked in my old calipers.

This sucks.

Teflon thread tape? I've seen some brands come with a white tape on the threads new. Ask Eric?

I bought the speed bleeders and am happy with them, it makes bleeding the system a lot easier if there is such a thing. I give them about a one eighth turn past snug.I would pull one and check the treads against one of the old ones to see if they have a different pitch. Also check the end of the seats to make sure they're seating properly. If you see marks of heavy scoring on them you might have a pitted seat surface on the calipers.

The MOST important question here is "what brand are the calipers, and where did you buy them?" If they're from a FLAPS, I can guarantee you they're junk. Buy a set from Eric Shea and be done with the job. The seal is at the juncture of the bleeder screws and the seat in the caliper. It's a cone/taper fit, and has to be redone in a fixture with the proper cutter. Done wrong, or not done at all, they'll NEVER seal. FLAPS sourced calipers, even the nationally advertised brand (whose initials are "Cardone") are NOT properly rebuilt.

The Cap'n

ya. I have done the cardone crap shoot. Eric's calipers work right straight out of he box.

Put teflon thread sealer paste on the threads of the bleeders.

This also helps stop air getting into the system when you crack the bleeders
a quarter turn to bleed the caliper.

John

Bought them from Eric. I'm working with him directly and he's doing a great job to make sure the situation gets sorted out.

Good, he will make it right. Teflon tape wouldn't work, as stated earlier, its the taper seat that stops the brake fluid, not the threads.