I have a 1970 with tail shifter. It has been sitting in a shed since 1980. I have had the engine running with the car on jack stands. Last summer I dropped the engine to clean it up and fix what needed fixin'.

I have heard that clutches can freeze up or rust to the flywheel while sitting that long. I did not think to check this while the engine was running prior to dropping it. I always started it up with the transmission out of gear. Thought I should check it out before putting the power plant back in.

So, how do I check out the clutch while I have it out? Is it as simple as unbolting the transmission while on the dolly (HE's and muffler are currently off)? Any watch-out's or special tools needed and what am I looking for?

Is it possible it is still OK?

Thanks,
Brian

yep, take it apart, pull the clutch, and PP, see how everything looks, flywheel might need to be resurfaced, too... my PP was rusty too, so I replaced everything. I've always done that though, if the PP or clutch is bad, I replace it all, on any car.

Straight forward procedure. Remove the 4 bolts and the starter. Wiggle the engine and trans apart. Make sure they are as level as possible so as not to put pressure on the main shaft. If you are going this far you might as well replace the clutch fork bushing, throw out bearing bushings and trans front seal. Less than $15 total. Check throw out bearing and see if it is quite. If not, may need replacement. About $125 but shop around. Put on a dust mask and gloves for protection from dust to remove plate. Next up, unbolt flywheel bolts in crossing pattern. Remove pressure plate and disc check for wear on fingers of pressure plate and oil on disc. Check flywheel for scoring or oil. Replace rear main seal on engine. Check rear galley plugs.

Doesn't sound too bad.

The car is a stock 1.7L. What clutch to use?

Thanks,
Brian

I'd get a stock 6 spring 215mm Sachs unit from KEP.

the 6 spring 911 clutch (sachs)