I tried to install my engine today. I built a small bracket for my floor jack, rolled it under the car and WTF it didn't fit.
It was a bit tippy once I got it up high enough but it kept catching on one thing or another, speedo cable, brake cables, hoses, wires...... 30 minutes later I lowered it and quit for the day.
Tomorrow I will try again with a little help from my brother. Any suggestions?
Tx
Doug
Oh I have to add, because of the car stand I built, I cannot put the front engine mount bar on the engine until I get it almost up into place.

I'm no expert but the "bring the car to the motor" method worked for me on removal. Seemed easier if you are by youself.

I got a low furniture dolly and used 3 jacks to level and move the motor around.

dr

when me and aaron (acox914) do it...well...its ugly...no more need to be said..

I have to add this, when I removed the engine, I did it with the drive axles in the wheels. Will I be able to put them back in the wheels easy enough after the engine is in the car?

it's very much a one person job. the pelican method but with 2 floor jacks and a $20 funiture dolly from homedespot. when the engine is on the dolly put a few pieces of wood ( to approx match the angle of the engine to the rake the car will have when you lower it) under the front of the engine, with the wheels off and a jack under each control arm, roll the engine under the car, slowly lower the car, line things up, and bring the car just off of the points where the bar and tranny connect.

kevin

I never had any problems. One more person does help though...

If you only have one person who do you cuss at

Today I was cussing at the ASSHOLE who broke my windshield while the car was in storage Looks like 7 hits with a chipping hammer. I had 2 car covers on it and .....
That didn't make my day and to have the engine almost drop off the jack didn't help.
I was cussing though.

I only need the other person to fetch more cold beer.

Seriously, I just use an ordinary trolly jack under the engine/tranny balance point.
Roll it in, jack it up, secure the tranny, then the engine.
The only trick I have found is to use some sheet metal to guide the engine tin past the inboard suspension mounts.
The drive shafts are out, the exhaust is off, and the engine bar is in place.
When I move the "package" it is by the transmission "ears" ( I don't directly move the jack, it follows instead).
When securing the tranny, push the pins up out of the way as best you can, otherwise they bind because of the angles.
When the exhaust is out of the way, the drive shafts are easy to install.
Install the exhaust last, but leave everything loose until all parts are in place; then start at the heads and work back, securing the hanger last.

Too bad you are not closer ( 10 hours drive, almost due north ). Bet you still have snow! You'll need a hot toddy instead of beer.

DaveP

Now there's what I'm talking about. Thanks.
I wish I could do it with my engine mount bar on but my car stand is in the way. I will have to get the engine almost in place before I can mount it.
Sheet metal to guide through the suspension arms, so simple but why didn't I think of it.
Does it really make it easier to hook up the tranny first? I would have thought it would hinder hooking up the front. Again, what do I know.
As for snow? It's snowing right now. I was snowmobiling this week. Good thing I love winter or I would really be pissed.

I usually sit with my legs around the trolly and just manipulate the package with the tranny ears. If properly balanced, the package is easy to handle. The tranny is just the easiest thing to secure at that time. Once that is done, you can get up and secure the engine bar. You don't want the package to fall off the jack, so you have to be in full control of it until something is secured. That means planning ahead with the sheet metal guides. An assistant will make everything go much smoother and safer. You still will have to do 95% of the work, they just pass you the tools and fasteners, and guide the engine up. Make sure the floor is smooth and clean first.

ive had one arm crushed in a motorcycle crash(right arm dont work very well at all )and i remove a motor and trans assembly in about 40 min.i install the motor and trans assembly in about hour and a half,and its running when im done. i use two jacks and a support that fits between the jack tops. and roll it under the car.up it goes,air tools help also too

All this great info comes at the proper time as I hope to be doing the same thing this weekend. Thanks guys and thanks Doug for starting this thread

..........b

yes! helps a lot with balancing the engine on the floor-jack while you pump it up in place. you can balance it with one hand and use the other for the jack. done it a few times now, werks great.

it is easier with one more person tho ...
Andy

Yup, that is EXACTLY like I do it. I don't usually have a helper so I don't know what I would have them do.

I have found that if the front of the car is LOWER than the back(one set of holes on jackstands, or a 2X4 chunk on the pad of the lift) it is easier for me.

Also, in the last inch or so, make sure you have not caught anything between the body and the engine tin (accelerator cables, fuel lines, electrical harnesses, etc).

Good luck!

This is also how I do 911 engines.

Balacing the 500 lb. drivetrain on a single jack seems unecessarily risky to me. There are several ways for the removal/install we all have our preferences.

I prefer the threaded rod method, with the jack only used to support and lift the trans end. The rods replace the engine bar mounting bolts, the car stays solidly elevated in the air and the drivetrain is simply lowered / raised into position on the threaded rods. Definitely easy enough with a single person, and there is no chance for the drivetrain or the car to fall off a jack.

The drivetrain is never supported b y a single point as on a jack, but at multiple points or on a furniture dolly.

if the h.e.'s aren't leaking i leave them on. this is the engine from the 75'. i ditched the "correct" ones.

kevin

Well I got it in this morning, with help from my bro. It went much easier with 2 people. I used some small rope on the tranny to help guide it up along the wayand hooked it up first.
The biggest trouble I had was with the front engine bar. It had to be installed after I had the engine in place because of my car stand. (design flaw) You can see in this old picture where it might get tricky.
Anyway it's in and thanks a bunch for all your help.

nice mobile lift .

kevin

Hi,
I have pulled the engine and reinstalled it twice. Used the Pelican method. Works great.
Cheers, Elliot

For the next time you might want to modify your "lift" so that the engine bar can be mounted prior to insertion

I use an overhead lift and rolling table puts the engine package 4' in the air and lower the body over the package - if you modified your lift to pick the car up from the front (if it will balance), you would have essentially the same thing.

Ron, can you change your avitar ?

I modified one for you.

B

thanks B

The car has to be picked up from the back because of the balance point. To pick it up from the front I would need about a 20 ton forklift because the engine is too far away. Right now I use an 8 ton forklift and it is at capacity.
Can't modify the lift at the back because the forks have to fit between the wheels and as you know the engine bar is as wide as the wheels.
It was tight but I got it in. Don't know if I will ever use it (car lift) again but I won't throw it out.

Ahh, you coulda put pasties on them. I'll change it tomorrow from my office.

Update - I changed it for all the gentlemen and ladies in the audience that could have possibly been offended. Now if you will all ditch your porno clips and magazines.........,

Nice car. The only thing you need to do to make it the perfect 914 is shave those damn side indicator lights.