What's the best way to remove the old cable? Pull out at the front near the pedal OR out the back at the firewall? Once out, I'm guessing I can clean out the tube it sits in w/ PB Blaster or WD40? How tough is it to get the new cable in and from what direction?
How long is the tube running thru the tunnel? I'm worried if installing cable from rear the cable end will get lost in the tunnel if the tube doesn't go most of the way.
Thanks for help. Driving is a bit interesting when you back off the gas and the engine speed doesnt back off. Touch the gas pedal and the speed drops.

yes from the firewall and grease the cable and lubricate the tube. There is a good replacement procedure in the "Tech Tips 700"

Hi,

I usually tie a string or fishing line to the cable before I pull it out and use it to pull the new one in.

Carlos

Before you change the cable, check the pedal bushings. If they're the original plastic, you may have a problem with brake fluid soaked bushings, which will stick. Once you've checked that, remove the clamp at the throttle body and make sure the throttle moves freely. Then you can move on to the cable. You first remove the ball socket and nut at the front end, then pull the cable out the back. The bowden tube may be stuck on the steel tube where they meet at the firewall. Just wiggle it free, using a pair of pliers. Make sure the end of the tube is clean and free of paint and rust. Remove the rear end of the old cable from it's fastenings in the engine compartment. The cable may or may not pull right out. Often the plastic/teflon/whatever sheath on the cable has deteriorated, making the removal seriously difficult. You MUST get all the old sheath out! Occasionally the swaged on forward end of the cable must be filed or ground sown on the thick part of the swage or it won't go through the tube. Be patient and push it through after making any necessary mods. Don't force it. Near the front, the tube ends. You have to be careful that the throttle cable doesn't get wrapped around the clutch cable. This is a pretty well known issue, and a lot of us have done it once or twice. Install the nut and ball socket, tighten the nut against the socket, and hook it to the bell crank. Go under the car, slip the end over the tube in the body, making sure it bottoms out, and run the cable and housing up through the tin on the right side. Fasten the end of the tube in place (DO NOT overtighten the nut and break the threaded end of the tube!), and tighten down the barrel nut at the throttle arm. Test the work by depressing the clutch and making sure the cables aren't fouled. BTW, using string, or fishing line, isn't at all necessary. In fact, the string, the knot, and the cable may constitute a mass larger than the tube will accommodate, resulting in the cable getting stuck in the tube. It's not like the cable can wander all over the place and get lost ...............

Be forewarned that this can be either a short easy job, or it can turn into what seems like a career. I lube the cable with Triflow, available at better hardware stores, locksmiths, and gun shops. Good stuff. Some folks don't use any lubricant. Your choice. You don't want a regular penetrating oil, and WD40 is only good for making the company huge profits.

I think I got it all. Good luck! The Cap'n

My thanks to all especially Cap'n for the detailed instructions. This car has not been on the road since 1988 so there is a good chance of crud build up. The pedal bushings look good and dry. Someone had told me the gas pedal can get rusty inside at the base and it may come all the way back after depressing it??? I already own the cable. It can't hurt to put it in. Thanks again!
Ed

Cap'n: Thanks for the cable installation instruction. I have a couple of questions after starting into this today and would appreciate your help.
How do you remove the ball socket from its pivot point at the front? Once it's off, I'm guessing you just turn back onto the threaded end of the new cable and tighten the nut against it?
I loosened the fitting/cover at the end of the steel tube at the firewall. It came loose pretty easily. When I pulled it back it started pulling the white sheath out of the steel tube. It pulled out easily. I pulled about 3-4" out before it stopped. I had not disconnected the cable at the front. When I depressed the accelerator pedal the sheath moved back into the tube. Should only the wire be moving in and out and not the covering with the wire??? Not sure why this is happening.
My gas pedal is kind of rusty up inside too. When I disconnect the rod from the back of it and push it down, it stays there. Maybe that's why the throttle sticks sometimes.
Gonna replace the pedal first and see what happens. You sort of scared me in your response about this job becoming a possible career.
Thanks in advance for any response.
Ed