QUOTE(proto31 @ Aug 13 2010, 11:26 AM)
I agree with Andy, I had an original 6 with a 2.0 and it was a blast to drive, 130 HP is nearly double what you currently have, plus the added torque. If you're looking for raw power than you need to look for a 3.2 or 3.6. Building a 2056 will cost more than rebuilding the 2.4 (assuming it even needs a rebuild) even to "E" (add $500 for E pistons and $300 for cam regrind). Just my $.02.
Dan
Dan, I disagree on the comment about building a 2056 costing more
if you take a -6 to a higher spec, you probably need to replace the cylinders too. And a set of pistons new is going to be over 1K, not 500. Plus a true E or S spec is going to need port work, heads (installing bigger valve seats is about a
$1200 job and makes finding better heads the preferred choice), not to mention the case limitations of an early case (early aluminum cases are going for $2000 these days). Rebuilding more parts on a motor with more cylinders, usually costs more than a motor with less cylinders
the -6 is going to cost more to rebuild in my book
and I think that an important part of the answer for the original poster to know is that converting a -4 chassis to use a -6 motor is expensive.
(where as the 2056 does not have the conversion costs associated with the chassis)
granted the -6 will be an awesome car but it won't be "cheaper"
you can factor a rebuild a 100 different ways, but here is my rough way:
914/4 starting chassis +with rebuilt 2056 + front cooler= $8K
914/4 starting chassis +rebuilt 2.4S spec motor + front cooler likely at over 150hp + full -6 conversion bits = $14K
finding a used -4 motor would be apples to apples. Most people would put the cost of converting the chassis somewhere around 5K.