So, then. I'll be attempting to change my clutch today, I don't really work on cars very much, so I am going to be asking you people some questions.

First, besides a flywheel lock and the alignment tool, do I need any other special tools?

Someone here suggested using four jackstands to only raise the rear end, how does that sound to the others here and where do the stands go for stabilitys sake.

would putting the front of the car on ramps and the rear on stands to have the whole thing in the air be a good idea? or the other way around...

anything that might be of use is needed from all of you whom are more experienced than myself. I have no clue what I'm doing, but I'll follow the procedures and hope I'm up to it.

I'm about to go buy the parts, and go to my dads house to use his garage/tools.
I'll be posting pics if there is any trouble.

I will have the 914 914/6 handbook, the haynes manual, and the Dr 914 procedure that comes with the kit.

Thanks in advance!

First of all don't forget to undo the ground strap first, and reconnect it last after burnishing all contact surfaces.

Are you leaving the engine in the car? If so then the following applies. Regardless, without a lift it's a two man job to be safe about it. Too many things to watch

I put my car up in the front also because I want to inspect the entire thing if it's gonna be up in the air anyway. The butt will go a little higher to give myself room to navigate. But I want it low enough to get a tall jackstand under the motor to hold it up while the transaxle is off. Makes it easier to jack up the unit while putting it back in too.

Good luck

Sorry discription below ! Dave

It's an instrument used to "gauge" interest in pictures that are not included in posts.

Alright, so we've got the clutch presure plate flywheel, etc. out.

The procedure says that we need to set the end play using a dial indicator.

is this necesary, please help! I dont have a dial indicator, or any shims!

What do I do now

Oops, re-read your question.

That dimension is set by measuring the movement fore and aft in the case. The shims are behind the flywheel. Replacing a clutch does not change the end play.

If you had installed a reground flywheel, you should check it. As long as it was the same flywheel and you saved the shims, you could get away with reinstallation more than likely and be ok.

Oh, there are 3 shims.

Now you know .............

You could do it with feeler guages, but you still need a postive place to measure from. Bolt flywheel up with 2 shims. Push crank foreward in case. Rig a stiff wire from a case bolt that just touches the flywheel. Pull the crankshaft aft. Measure the distance from the wire to the flywheel with a feeler gauge. The correct dimension is in the Haynes book. For kicks, let's say it's .004". You take the measurement of the feeler guage you got, subtract .004 and that's the thickness of the 3rd shim that is added to get the correct dimension. Alas, you have to know what thickness your shim is. Harbor Freight ... $20 - $30 bucks for a digital caliper.

I haven't removed the flywheel seal, so I'm not to the shims yet.

Can I leave that area alone and just go on with installing everything?

I have the 19-piece kit from AA so I am replacing the flywheel, disk, and pressure plate.

I was typing ... if you don't change the flywheel, you don't need to set endplay.

If your existing flywheel is not scored, blued or cracked, you can just replace the clutch.

Scored = deep ridges in the surface

Blued = heat spots, blue/black in color on the surface

Cracks = cracks

If you have a decent camera, post an image of the flywheel surface.

Or you can just install everything and cross your fingers. You have a bettter than none chance of getting away with it.

That`s the ultra rare invisible /6 GT myisticalicious gauge.

Nice find! Here's a pic of the back of the gauge:

Thats what I'm doing...

Now my problem is... I can't get the transmission back all the way on.
I have a space of almost an inch and we just can't get it tight.

I'm done for today, do more tomorrow.
I'll put pics up soon.

Thats the plan.

Now we can't get the transmission back on, theres a gap of nearly an inch and it's not going on...

It sounds like the splines aren't lining up with the pressure plate. Did you use an alignment tool when you installed the new clutch and pressure plate? If so and you're sure they're aligned properly try turning the axle with the transmission in gear to turn the input shaft. you should be able to feel the splines line up and be able to push the transmission and engine together. Make sure that you have the transmission and the engine lined up at equal levels. If the transmission isn't level then the input shaft could be hanging up.

Good luck!

Jsaum

Heres the gap

I ended up using ramps up front and jackstands in the back


Jackstands my grandfather made a long time ago

I'd take the transmission back off, loosen the pressure plate bolts and be sure you have the clutch plate properly aligned with the clutch tool inserted all the way. Then retighten the pressure plate bolts, retorque, and the remove the tool. The transmission should line up easily, though you often have to raise the back end up a bit as the natural tendency is to have that end drooping. You can also try twisting the transmission to help align the splines, but it should slide in fairly easily.