looking for a good sandwhich adaptor to add an oil cooler. want one with a thermostat built in, I see several brands for sale, there are some big price differances too.

at any rate there are some ones that have 3/8 inch NPT inlet/outlet threads, and others that have 1/2 inch NPT threads inlet and outlet. the price differenace is considerable (nearly 3X)

seeing as the oil passages upto the filter are not all that fat anyway I figure, how much benifit would one get out of a 3/8 NPT fitting verses the 1/2 NPT? I still plan to use AN10 hose and fittings and have 1/2 inch NPT on the oil cooler itself, so the biggest restriction in the new system would be the 3/8 NPT fittings on the sandwhich adaptor. will this be a significant flow restriction or not verses the larger adaptor? the engine will be a daily driver motor, not a high rpm race motor.

I take that this is for a /4?

Why do you need a built in T-stat? If going to a cooler I'd use a separate mocal T-stat. All the built-ins I've seen are cheap Chinese crap.

The 3/8 is all you need for as /4, I only use Parker push-loc hose and fittings with no clamps.

Try to find a adapter out of a for police interceptor (crown vic). They are supposed to fit, have the thermostat in them, and actually work.

the brands I am considering are Hayden or Derale there versions are 3/8 inch inlet/outlet. any opinions on them? I like the idea of the built in thermostate, less mounting of stuff, fewer fittings.


any word on hayden or Derale quality????

thanks

any one have experiences with Derale or Hayden sandwhich adaptors, know of quality issues with these brands?

thanks

I'm running a Transdapt remote filter on my V8. Very nice billet machined piece. The typical V8 filter uses a 3/4 center thread to screw it on. I would lean to the larger 1/2 version. The system will have more parasidic drag through the adapter and thermostat so the larger size will benefit you. I'm not convinced you need a thermostat but I don't know what engine you have.

I've installed a few. All of them looked pretty much the same. I use the 3/8" version.

McMark you use a thermostat???? I was under the imression it is a good idea to allow oil to heat up faster on cold starts.


tradisrad has a thremostat one in his car, not sure how much difference it makes, verse no thermostat???????

I had a mocal sandwich adapter on my racecar....with integrated t-stat.
ran the oil lines to the front trunk with a 25 row oil cooler and a large electric fan....work great and never had heating problems...fan was hooked up to my foglight switch... (no fog lights on racecar )

I will eventually mount a cooler in the rear somewhere on my current '75. Probably will do another sandwich adapter with integrated t-stat. some sort of fan on the cooler for stop and go traffic, since this is my DD.

tradisrad did a think it was a 72 plate cooler with a six inch fan, mounted up above and too the side of the tranny under the rear trunk floor. works like a charm, 180F temps all day long he used the mocal thermostat adaptor also.

for price reason and availability I wil probably go with a Derale 15702 or a hayden 205 thermostat sandwhich adaptor, both have 3/8 NPT ports, and about half cost of the mocal. hayden can be found for a low as $30 at Summit, Derale is priced $45 at summit

realred, don't foget this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108328 . I am sure you will be fine with the 3/8 adapter. It will be winter before you get it ready to install if you keep lagging on getting your parts!

plates and rows are two different things

maybe I'm misunderstanding your post
but to be clear.. a thermostat does allow the oil to heat up faster by keeping it out of the cooler on cold starts...

the thermostat also protects the cooler.


on both both of the race cars I've used coolers we have skipped the thermostats because we could control the start up situation, also because we normally are not running in freezing weather, due to weight, and finally because the restriction of a thermostat does degrade maximum cooling (slightly)

however is my old street car with a front cooler I did use a thermostat
and in the cooler I'm about to install on the rear of this street car I also am going to use a thermostat.

brant

rows of plates is what it looks like to me. If my 914 was a boat, I'd row it, but since it is a car, i will chrome plate it.

The thermostat isn't just about 'freezing weather'. You want the oil to come up to ideal temperature as quickly as possible. If you have a cooler without a thermostat, it takes longer for this to happen. You could skip the thermostat if you leave any fans turned off, and you don't move the car until optimum oil temp is reached.

the mocal thermostat that I am using always allows some oil to goto the cooler and when it closes all of the oil is diverted to the cooler first. I have noticed that it takes the oil a few more miles to heat up. with the cooler and lines I've added about another quart and a half of oil so I've got more to heat up.

we hardly ever have freezing weather in the Bay Area.

I was always under the impression that any oil line should be as large on the id as any oil gallery that the pump feeds or bigger if the lines are long to prevent the oil from being restricted. When the oil is restricted it gives a false oil pressure reading at the bearings but that is only on a full flow oil cooler system not a bypass oil cooler system. On the bypass oil cooler I would still want at least 1/2 id oil lines. 10an is 10/16 or 5/8 id.

My shade tree math is as follows: 1/2 is 4/8 therefore 3/8 is 25% less volume than 1/2 not counting the wall restriction.

Also on the sandwich plate I had on my -4 Track car, I saw serious heat transference as the whole plate got hot.

Actually the area is exponential, so an increase or decrease is a LOT more or a LOT less.That's because PI "are squared"!