I'm toying around with the idea of bringing in cool air to my carb. Possibly cutting into the side of my car, don't realy want to do this. Although some 996 or Boxter side intakes would be cool (no pun intended). Has anyone done this? Any pictures with or with out penetrating the side of the car showing cool air intakes.
I took my car out to the Longhouse(liquior store) for Whisky and lotto today and noticed when I got home, 7miles, my air filter and assy was as hot as the valve covers. Using 2000 technoligy, I know it's 2010, there's got to be a better way. Here's a pict of what I got, I almost feel this intake is restrictive for my engine. I have a few ideas, like suckung thru the engine lid with air filters to the carb?
Let me know what is out there. Who's done it, what results,
Thanks,
TI
Click to view attachment

Here' s Idea 1
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naw... don't cut in to the side of the body.

a sheet metal tray to seal out the engine heat and vent to the opening of the engine lid would be better.

i'll find a link to some thing like it.

like this http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/65960/100...roductId=745281

Toni I think Phil down on Whidbey Island has side inlets on his

Blue 914. The car that tows the blue trailer. Phil and his wife

were at the B B Q this last summer.

Troy,
I'm all over it, No way would I cut into the side just yet. I fount some cast elbows on Jeggs to adapt to my existing air filter, minus the air filters, then a couple of cone filters. Box them in to suck thru my engine lid and I should be all set. Jegs has what I need and I have a couple of Alum. boxes in the garage, that should work. I'll keep you posted!!

Nord, that's what startes this whole thing, I saw Phils intake and said Good Idea, he has (is) a well engineered car.

Don't mind the typo's I'm hitting the bottle I bought earlier :}

Tony,
When I drive my car just a short distance I get dust covering my deck lid and engine cover. This is telling me the air is coming up and out the engine cover. I think if you put your intake air box's where you are thinking the air might

be pulled away from them rather than being sucked in.

Jerry

Yep, I agree Jerry. Behind the rear window is a low pressure area, air definetly flows up and out of the engine lid, and would be less dense than from the sides, front or under the car. I was also thinking of routing the intakes below the engine, or headers, but it would be picking up alot of road dirt and debris.
For function, side scoops would work best. but I can't get past cutting the sides just yet.

Tony,

I made this web site about 12 years ago. It shows how I did the side scoops. But since than I have made a few small improvements. The side scoops can be removed to clean the air filters and they also can be reversed on rainy days so the air filters don't get wet.

http://members.rennlist.com/bluethunder/projpage05.htm

Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, Wa.

There was a thread on this a while back which confirmed some thoughts I'd had on the subject. I was driving on a lot of dirt roads and got tired of cleaning my K&N filter and just started buying cheapos.

Thinking the dirty air was coming in over the top and down, I taped over the grill only to find a pile of dirt on top of the air cleaner. It's a definate updraft and my airdam on the front doesn't help. At one point I even made some engine tin to seal off around the headers. It cut down on the dirt, but seemed to run warmer.

The LE airdam is shorter in the middle to allow airflow under the car.
Normal teener cooling had the little airdams on the firewall to put a draw on the bottom of the cylinders to help the air exit. If I ever get my beast back on the road again I've considered putting an airdam across the bottom of the firewall to see if I can create a down draft in that compartment.
Has anyone tried that?

Porsche tried that...put it in production too. That is what the two plastic low pressure flaps are underneath the car.

Side scoops seem like a lot of work for very little gain.

The small flaps under the firewall did not seem to make any difference on my car. I am going to make a short belly pan that extends from the firewall to a few inches past the engine mount bar. I have no idea if this will effect the cooling or not.

Jerry

Wrap or ceramic coat your headers and be done with it.. Really no point in doing a cold air intake on our cars. Your going to notice, what a 5hp increase at max? Is that really worth cutting into a clean body?

That is a good idea, wraping the headers, to keep the heat away from the air filter. I'm not too worried about HP gains just giving the carb some cool air to breathe.

Phil, thanks for the link, I'm still not ready to cut the sides.

TC,
The main reason to wrap the headers and exhaust systems is to keep the hot exhaust gases inside the headers hot, as hot gases move faster in the header pipes. Gases moving in the header pipes fast is the key to the headers working well. A secondary benefit is not heating up the area around the headers and the problems that result from that, Ie, burned wires, vapor lock, etc.
If you have the time and inclination, you could try some different ideas and monitor the temp in the engine bay to see which idea works best. I always wondered why V-8 conversions didn't have tins to separate the cold/hot sides of the engine comp. Maybe because of where the headers go. There does seem to be an agreement that tins on Porsche engines are very important to keep the heat from below from getting to the top of the engine bay. Maybe some custom tin work and wrapped headers would combine to make things better for your car. A side benifit would be keeping dirt out also!
Tom

Tom,
The only reason that the tins are need on Porsche engines are because they are air cooled. They need to have the heads have the cool air around the fins so they separate the exhaust from the top and shroud the heads to get proper airflow around them.

Really no reason to separate the heat on a v8. As long as you have proper clearance on your wires from the headers you are fine and dandy.

Tony,

Seen these ? They were made by Wilco. Wilco made convertible tops and they needed to compensate for the tops intrusion into the engine grill area. So, the scoop was installed.

that looks pretty good.... and would't be that hard to do.

Not bad It has the 308 look to it. is Wilco still around? I'll do some searching

Wilco's long gone. There are a few cars with the scoops around.

Scroll down to the last few photo's on the page. I put a NACA duct in the rocker panel.

http://phoenixhobbies.com/html/prorgress_2008.html

Do some more sbc homework. One of the things that you can do on the carbed sbc is to block the exhaust port crossover in the intake manifold and be sure to have the oil splash guard on the bottom of the intake manifold to keep the hot oil off of the intake. The other is there was a shield that you could put inbetween the intake manifold and the carb to stop some of the radiated heat from getting to the carb. Of course there is the coated headers which will do the most for stopping radiated heat on the sides of the motor from rising up and heating the top area of the engine compartment. The most you can do is relieve the upper area so the heat can rise up and out of the engine compartment. The other is a air path to the side of the car. The idea is that it takes about 750 cfm to make 350 hp. Do the math on the cold air intake volume to know for sure how big it needs to be. My guess is a 4.0 diameter tube minimum for a na motor.

Nice Job and those NACA vents are slick......
I gotta aske though, what is the blue thingie on the CV joint?

It's a machined aluminum ring that holds 8 magnets for the electronic speedometer.

http://phoenixhobbies.com/html/elec_speedo.html

I like the idea of only cutting the rockers
I'll have to see how much room there is
I'm on the road till Thursday
Good looking car and workmanship

That is awesome! You need to sell this part. Can I get in line now?

I started my Cold air intake, first I wraped my headers with heat wrap. Made a huge difference in Sound!!!! allot quieter. The heat seems to be down a little. Then I mounted the new air filters which will be sheilded from the heat below with a suround and open to the top. Then I will duct cool air from below the headers ( possibly rockers ) to the underside of the heat sheilds. Here is a pict of work in progress. There is a pict of the original intake earlier in the thread.
Click to view attachment

Thanks for the reply,
That's pretty fancy!

If you aren't using your heater tubes that go through the longs you can suck cool air from the louvered intake below the front windshield. Then route it back to the engine bay through the heater tubes. My dad did that with his stock 2.0 and it seemed to work.

That is a good idea and did think of trying it. I don't know if there would be enough CFM's for the V8. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
T

those little tubes as long as they are won't feed the 302 at high rpm.

As much as I like how header wrap works... I had a set wraped, after about 1 year the headers exploded at the head flange. All 8 primary tubes blew all at once. The wrap makes the steel brittle. any excess flex in your exhaust will make it fail. While it was new, it was awesome. My headers exploded at the top of the grape vine on my way back to SF. I drove for 6 hours open head-er. I'm just lucky I didn't suck a valve. Lucky for me I was running aluminum heads with titainium valves.

Hey Tony...it will be interesting to see how your idea works out. Still seems the air is going to be pretty darn hot where those filters are. Pretty cool though.

i'm thinking get the filters up closer the the lid vent and seal the heat shroud around the filter to the engine lid screen.

That's my plan, and bring duct from below to flow up thru the box and out the engine lid. It's definitely low pressure above the lid, air will flow bottom to top.

what's the deal with the explodeing headers?
Never heard of such a thing