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wayne1234
I found this on jeepforum.com I am thinking of doing this to one of my vehicles. I know when I was working on the 914 I had checked into a cavity wax but couldnt find it locally. I know very well the effects of rust on the poor 914 out there. After a google search on redneck waxoyl there are a few different variations, but they all have the same idea... Figured I would share with the group, anyone done this?

QUOTE
"I've found a homemade rust preventive that I use down here on the gulf coast (salt water 10 feet from my back door) that works really good.

Get a gallon of mineral spirits in a bucket. Throw in 1lb ground up paraffin wax or you can buy a couple of toilet bowl wax rings. Grind up the wax and mix it with the mineral spirits.

It will take several weeks to dissolve on its own, or you can do like I do and use a cheap aquarium heater to heat the solution up to dissolve the wax. Once the wax is dissolved you add about a quart of light non-detergent oil like SAE 30.

The way the stuff works is the wax and oil stay in solution (mineral spirits) which makes it easy to spray in every nook and cranny. Once sprayed the mineral spirits evaporates and leaves a oily/waxy covering over the surface.

If you scratch the wax, the oil from the wax around it will creep into the crack and protect it.

I tested this stuff by taking a foot long piece of bare steel and sanding nice and smooth. I sprayed it with the mineral spirits/wax/oil mix and hung it off my dock so it would be under water at high tide and exposed at low tide.

After a month there isn't a speck of rust on it. I even took a nail and gouged the wax off to see what would happen. In the spot where I gauged it down there is still no rust.

From what I understand the recipe has been around for a long time and is regarded as homemade waxoyl.

FOG
smontanaro
I always thought the main problem with any rust treatment was that you had to poke holes in our body/frame to get the stuff into the cavities. Now you've got to plug them up with something.
76-914
Sounds interesting. Hey this is my 666th post. happy11.gif happy11.gif happy11.gif
realred914
wax and oil mix has for a long time been a good rust preventative, waxanol is one product already made for this.

Best bet is to have this stuff applied to a new car, before rust starts. once rust is started, the wax may not stop it, unless the moisture that is found in the rust is totally removed first, esle the wax traps the moisture with the the rust. this stuff should not be applied on loose flacky rust, only firm dry surfaces.

some of the comercial products have additional rust inhibitors in them.

wax / oil can be a good rust preventaion method.
realred914
QUOTE(76-914 @ Dec 3 2010, 07:22 AM) *

Sounds interesting. Hey this is my 666th post. happy11.gif happy11.gif happy11.gif



He's a witch, burn him!!!! stirthepot.gif
Joe Owensby
When I rebuilt my car, I treated the inside of the longs with a wax like compound from Eastweed. They sell a kit with the wax and also with a selection of wands to reach into the panels. To get the longs, you can fish a wand of flexible rubber with the spray tip on it through the opening in the doorwell near the door hinge. This gets the front of the long. There is a plug on the inside of the longs on the side. This can be removed, and you can then fish a flexible wand all the way to the back of the inner long. This has to pass by the hoses that conduct the heater air, but it can be done if you are careful. The nozzle sprays out the side, so it can be twisted to cover the inner long. Doors, etc. are fairly easy to do. Just remove the panel.
stugray
At first I thought "You arent waxing any of MY cavities - Ouch", then I thought "I do get a little moisture collection in the rear end...."

Sounds good to me though. ;-)

Stu
jmill
Check out Dinitrol products. Used it on aircraft for years. Great stuff and they sell it in spray cans.
pete-stevers
I think it is a great idea, i used it(oil wax and a viscous chain oil ) on my jeep's undercarriage, in every nook and cranny, still looks brand new today.
(not bad with seven winters of salt)
i think the resealing and movement of the oil and wax is far more effective than a hard barrier such as a rubberized undercoat
Katmanken
Dinotrol products actually got the best results of almost any rust product available in one of my old British Car magazines.

That includes ALL of the paints. cold galvanizing, waxes, rubberized coatigs etc. Seems the product has rust inhibitors that actually protected the bare opposite side of the metal during months of salt spray.

That being said, my hero would be the one who tells me where to buy Dinitrol products in the U.S. Seems the Brits has them in spray cans with all the pain of Euro ordering.
draganc
QUOTE(kwales @ Dec 4 2010, 10:57 AM) *

Dinotrol products actually got the best results of almost any rust product available in one of my old British Car magazines.

That includes ALL of the paints. cold galvanizing, waxes, rubberized coatigs etc. Seems the product has rust inhibitors that actually protected the bare opposite side of the metal during months of salt spray.

That being said, my hero would be the one who tells me where to buy Dinitrol products in the U.S. Seems the Brits has them in spray cans with all the pain of Euro ordering.



I'm a hero - i guess?

http://www.westernamspec.com/Inventory/Det...initrol-av8.asp

pls let us know the outcome and how much it is.

dragan
Cheapsnake
oh THAT cavity wax! for awhile there I thought I had stumbled upon an undertaker's forum. lol-2.gif
rfuerst911sc
On my car I used marine fogging oil. This come in a spray can and is designed to spray into the intake system of marine engines for the winter. It is a oil,grease,tacky goop that is not very expensive but designed to keep the entire intake system,valves and cylinder walls from rusting. I sprayed this stuff in every cavity on the car that I could, targa bar, longs,windshield frame and inside the doors. I may follow up in the future with the home made brew in this post. I see no reason why every year or two you could spray this goop in strategic areas of the car. Drill some holes, spray the goop and cover the holes with caps similiar to what they used to use when you had your car Ziebarted.
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