Well, I have all of the mechanical work done for my 3.2l motronic conversion. Now I'm trying to figure out the wiring. I purchased the Patrick MotorSports conversion harness a few years back. It allows me to eliminate the relay board. However, electrical is not my forte...so I have some real questions on the "trunk" wires from the 3.2l harness and what to do with them. The engine, dme and wiring harness are all from the same car. So, here are my questions and you can relate them to the pictures as shown:

1. picture named "DME help" circle #1: by the dme connector...there are two little stub connections that seem to come out of the DME connector and both wires are brown....do these need to go to anything?

2. picture named "Trunk help" circle #2: I marked these fuel pump...do I cap these because I'm using the 914 wiring or do I need to connect them somewhere?

3. picture named "Trunk help" circle #3: I marked this positive battery...does the 914 harness cover this or do I need to connect it to the battery also?

3. picture named "Trunk help" circle #4: green and green/yellow wire...have no clue what this is?

4. picture named "Trunk help" circle #5: black wire by the wires I labeled "fuel pump"...have no clue what this is?

5. picture named "Trunk help" circle #6: white connector with a black, black/purple and yellow wire...have no clue what this is?

I also would like to know where you usually mount the DME and where do you pass it through from the passenger compartment into the engine compartment..and once on the engine compartment side...where do you route it up to the engine? Have pics from those angles?

Thanks all in advance!

Jim

DME help:
Click to view attachment

Trunk help:
Click to view attachment

You are going to need a schematic and follow the wiring diagram.

The Motronic DME Relay powers the Motronic and also controls the fuel pump. (you should be using the 3.2 fuel pump with the 3.2)

The ring terminal you show looks like the one that runs back to the starter. + terminal.

The terminal ends in pic #2 look like they terminate at fuses in the 911 front trunk. One very well may be for the fuel pump, but it is at the fuse end not the pump end.

I typically drill the hole for the harness on the passenger side of the firewall. It's really up to you where you drill your hole. I mount the DME either under the passenger seat or on the firewall behind the passenger seat.

I'm not sure (from memory) where the short pigtails go, but in general (on a Porsche) if it is a solid brown wire, chances are that it is a ground.

Whoa!!! Let us stop before going any further! We will get you through this wiring and it is not a great problem; we just have to take a little time and see what is going on and how we can get everything tied together.

John is right. You have to use the 3.2 fuel pump, altitude sensor, and fuel pump/DME relay. These control everything regarding the engine fuel and management system. I do not know what the Patrick Wire Harness does but I believe it ties some of the engine requirements from the engine to the 914 harness thus eliminating the fuel pump fuse/relay, power relay, rear window defrost, heater fan fuse, heater fan, and a couple of items that relate to the -4 fuel injection system.

First, there are several items that need to be discussed: tachometer, fuel pump and fusing, key power, heater fan (if retained), starting, and maybe a couple of other things.

What exactly does the Patrick Wiring do and what does it change in routing wiring from the engine to the 914 wiring harness (i.e. the 14-pin connector)? Need to know from where to where on the wiring harness 14-pin (engine to 914).

Second, did you get the tachometer, altitude sensor, fuel pump/dme relay with the engine?

The probably other considerations but for now the above is enough. I will go get my schematics and notes from the garage and see what I can do to further help you out.

#6 above has a couple of things going through it; two wires (one of the black ones and the black/violet got to the tachometer from the DME and then back to the DME; I will have to get with my notes to see where the other black wire and the yellow wire goes and their functions. Once I get my notes I can tell you exactly what does what and then we can adjust accordingly.

How do I know? I am currently doing the final tracing and validation of my wiring for a 3.2 1987 Carrera engine conversion. You should get a wiring schematic (look at Pelican Board under wiring diagrams for the appropriate 914; you should have a volt/ohm meter for tracing back different wiring. The key is the 14-pin connector and once you have that setup (Patrick Wiring harness adaptor, or direct wiring) the balance falls into place. First, help me understand what the Patrick Adaptor does exactly.

For a start, the 3.2 engine 14-pin connector has the following pin assignments:

1 - Yellow Starter

2 - Red Battery B+/Alternator

3 - Green/black Oil temperature

4 - Green/red Oil pressure

5 - Red/green Ign to Backup Light switch

6 - Gray/brown Backup lights to backup light switch

7 - Open

8 - Brown/black Temperature switch to fresh air blower

9 - Green/white Oil pressure idiot light

10 - Open

11 - Blue Alternator control light (generator light)

12 - Open

13 - Black/yellow Fresh air blower power

14 - Red Battery/Alternator B+


Take the above wiring pins at the 14-pin connector with a grain of salt and verify them for your own comfort zone.

These can be traced back through the engine harness for verification; REMEMBER: DO NOT TRY TO VERIFY WITH OHM METER WITH THE HARNESS CONNECTED TO THE DME COMPUTER; ;YOU WILL RUIN THE COMPUTER!!!!

The other piece of information you may need is the computer connector pin assignment.

Enough for now; if you do not need this information, please disregard.

Steve Hurt

Thanks for the input so far. Here is additional information that I left out late last night when posting:

1. I am using the original fuel pump from the 911
2. I am using the original Tach from the 911
3. I have and will be using the original DME, altitude sensor and DME relay

The Patrick Motorsports part is a pre-built jumper harness (14 pin to 14 pin) specifically designed to connect the 3.2l 14-pin connector engine harness to the 914-4 14-pin harness (and thus eliminating the relay board). It has additional leads if I want to add an oil pressure gauge, oil temp gauge and the heater blower (which I will keep being in the midwest). It's already bundled and shrink wrapped so taking it apart to see how it was pinned would most likely wreck it (remember, I'm not a wiring guy...about all i'm good for is connect/disconnect). I can visualize that the 914 side of the connector has pins coming out at 1,2,3,4,5,8,9,12,14 and the 3.2l side has pins at 1,2,3,4,5,6,9,11,14.

Thanks again for the help!

Hi Jim,

The info I have given you thus far is not to overwhelm you but to give you valuable information so you can check the resistance path to ensure you have everything connected right. This is info you need to make sure the connections are done right.

1. Original fuel pump from the 911 (Motronic) is what to use.

2. Original tach from 911 (Motronic) is what to use.

3. DME, altitude sensor and DME relay correct.

You have just told me that the connection jumper (Patrick) changes and matches the engine connections to the 914 car connections. This I needed to know as we proceed along this path including the oil temperature and oil pressure.

The only thing possibly not covered is the backup light switch and light wiring which on the 3.2 should be going through the engine harness on the 3.2 side of the house; 914 side goes through the wiring harness of the car; you can go either way on this wiring - look and see what Patrick has done in their jumper.

I wired my 14-pin connector in the car side to match the engine connector requirements and we both have the same wiring matches.

I am not a electrical wiring expert, but I needed the information to trace the resistance path of the engine harness to make sure I was connecting items correctly. This does not mean you have to check everything but there will be an occasion where you may need the information.

Now that I understand what you have and have covered the basis, I will go out and match your requested info to the pictures and try to get as much info as possible.

I am placing the DME, altitude sensor and fuel pump/DME relay between the seats after coming through the right side of the lower firewall. This allows the total harness to run forward to the battery, switch, and tach. I also have a very good diagram on how the connections are made. I will see if I can find it for you.

Now to get you the info in your pictures.

Steve Hurt

This is valuable information for all of us doing the 3.2 swap. I will be using the Patric adaptor as well. Thanks! Mark

Pictures:

DME help: two brown wires which should be some type of ground; on my harness connected together with a connector.

Trunk help (911 reference ??): Now we get into why you need an ohm meter, schematics, etc to make sure the connections are made correctly; can easily verify by a continuity check (resistance path) to the various connection points:

#6 - has three wires that you are going to use; two to the tachometer (one of the blacks and the black/violet; you will need to trace these out as follows:
Black - from DME - 21
Black/violet - from DME - 11
{reference view as connected to tach}
Yellow - from DME - 4 (start only; tap 914 harness)
black - I did not use this wire; after separated from the others

#5 - looks like a black wire which goes to the "start and run position; tap 914 harness; need to verify this by tracing out back either to the DME relay or possibly to the coil. Also looks like a black wire on #3?? which could be this item.

#3 ?? - looks like a red/green wire which should be traced out; coming from DME relay #5 and goes through a 25amp fuse to the fuel pump; I believe you have to put in the fuse in the path to the fuel pump power wire.

- looks like a black wire which could be coming from the ignition coil and DME 5; reference back to #5 which could be listed above as the same item.

#4 - looks like a green wire??? and cannot tell what is suppose to be.

I think you now can see why you need to check the wiring to make sure you have the right connections.

Also, the wiring to the tach I did not use the connector shown (does not go to the back of the tach connection). wired in another connector which fit the tach connection and hard wired the shown connector with a bridge like Patrick's.

I have a schematic showing the connections and all the items related to the connections needed to be made; has reference to DME, DME relay, etc. I would be happy to send this information to you and should provide a clearer view of how things connect and relate to each other.

Steve Hurt

Now to give some more back ground from the schematic showing the connections, it is as follows: (I cannot take credit for it but obtained it from one of the excellent threads on Sixer conversions. I wish I could remember who did it and give full credit to where it is deserved). After five years on the project and many sources of information, it is hard to remember who actually provided the information.

After finishing the connections reflected in the drawing or schematic, I will attempt to add it to this thread as an attachment so major documentation is in one area. The only other info you may need is the DME computer pin assignments which can be found in the Bentley Manual.



Fuel Pump - located in front trunk; wired to DME Relay #1 with fuse 25amp;
red/green wire coming from DME-relay #1 pin

Start & Run - Tap into 914 harness
- from DME Relay #5 pin; black wire and is also connected to the
coil (+) in engine compartment; coil wire at coil is black

Battery (B+) - comes from battery and goes to DME Relay #6 pin; red wire
which may have to be added into the wiring harness from battery
to the DME Relay

Start Only - Tap Yellow in 94 harness; start cycle; DME #4 pin (NOT DME
(RELAY)

Tachometer - one from the car the engine came from
- black/violet from DME #21 pin (not DME Relay); need to match
with correct pin on the back of the tach (again the need for
wiring schematics)
- black wire from DME #11 (again not the DME Relay); need to
match with correct pin on the back of the tach; power and
grounds to the tach are provided on the 914 wiring side of the
house

Altitude Sensor - connector near the DME/Fuel Pump Relay Socket

I have left the 14 pin connection alone since I think the basis of matching 914 wiring to the engine wiring has been provided.

Please take everything with alot of "salt" and double check everything as you are doing it. You would be surprised how many times I got off track in wiring my project. Hope this helps.

Now to try to attach the schematic of the connections to this thread. If I have problems attaching it, you may contact me anytime and I will send it to you.

Jim, contact me off thread and I will make sure you get a copy of the schematic. For 914 wiring diagrams, Pelican has some; I do not know if Road Atlanta has any references.

Steve Hurt

Steve...sent you a pm with my email. It ha been 5 years since I stripped this harness out of my 84 donor. If I stretch the cable out I believe #3 connected to the positive terminal on the battery. The next bundle back (#2 & #5) connected to the fuse box/relay panel (they are bent that way also). Still can't remember #4. And if the three pin connector (#6) is for the Tach...might the 3rd wire be for the computer assisted shift light indicator (CASIS is what porsche called it) that lights up a "upshift" arror on the Tach?

Jim,

There is an Tach up shift setup but I did not even consider finding it or connecting it. I did not find anything relating to it in the harness on the resistance path checks I did in matching the wiring harness (3.2 engine). I have you a package with the wiring schematic/diagram along with the 3.2 DME computer pin assignments. I also included the tach pin assignments which are as follows for the 3.2 Motronic engine:
Power to tach #5 pin on back - provided by the 914 wiring
Ground to tach #6 pin on back - provided by the 914 wiring
Engine harness black wire to #1 pin on back of tach - from DME pin #22
Engine harness black/violet wire to #2 pin on back of tach - from DME pin #11

Please use an ohm meter to verify the different paths on the engine wire connections in question, and note what they should connect to following the schematic/diagram. this information will provide you with the answers to where what goes where, etc.

Package will be in mail Monday

Mark, I am sending the same package to you with the same information.

Thanks Steve!

Great thread.

I am currently doing the same swap, only I had thought tat the PMS jumper got rid of all of the guesswork with the wiring, I guess I was wrong.


Pictures of the wiring solutions would be great and would help to eliminate the guess work with folks who do this in the future.

The Patrick Jumper just takes care of the 14 pin connector; it does not take care of how the wiring goes for fuel pump, key power, starter, fuel pump/DME relay, etc. It appears to be an excellent product and does the job of matching the necessary wire changes involving that connector.

As soon as we get Jim and Mark taken care of and have their feed back, we can put this on the thread. We need to ensure the focus is right and the information is correct as it can be represented.

Once this period and information is completed, then I would be happy to send the complete information/drawing/schematic to someone who will put it as an attachment to the thread.

Remember we are dealing with the 3.2 Motronic engine and its wiring characteristics/connections. The years I believe are 1984-1989

I will be validating my connections to ensure we are correct and would appreciate info from Jim and Mark after they receive a package I am sending them and validate it. Other considerations should possibly include schematic of fuel pump, DME/fuel pump relay, and wiring considerations as they apply to the connection consideration. If you do not use the Patrick Jumper, then the information I have listed previously that apply to the actual wire changes at the 14-pin connector need to be validated and understood.

Some people may choose to use part of the relay board functions; this should be addressed.

Again, I want the emphasis should be given to the numerous people who have made this engine change into 914s and early 911s. The schematic/diagram was on one of the older Pelican threads and they should get full credit for their time and efforts in making the drawing. Many people have contributed to threads on all the 914/911 boards and have provided much of the background and insight into the necessary changes. I wish I could remember all their names and the actual work they have done in order to get credit and acknowledgement.

Thank you to those "contributors" because I would not have my car conversion almost complete; the schematic/diagram really gave me insight into wiring the 14-pin connector (I did not use Patrick's); how the tach and fuel Pump relay/DME relay were connected and controlled the Motronic fuel injection system; and how the key power (start only, and start/run positions) were connected. There may be other items that are needed into this thread including procedures and what is needed. Hopefully, these will come out as we try to finalize this thread so anyone who is doing/going to do a 3.2 Motronic engine exchange will have some type of up-to-date valid information.

If this is the type of information you need/want, then we should take this opportunity to try to document this thread. Remember many people have provided much of the information on 914world, 914club, Pelican (914 and 911 boards) and many others and for these efforts they are the ones who deserve the credit for any final information. They are the ones who have done this activity and did provide information as we may be able to provide here.

If you see the need for this info, I will need help from Jim and Mark to make sure it gets completed and listed on the board, or any of the boards we use as members.

echocanyons,

Sent an e-mail to you.

Steve Hurt

Don't wait for me. I'm still buying parts for the swap and having rust repaired. Hope to build up car in the spring. Thanks, Mark

I was poking around the pelican site in the 911 forum to see if anybody had a discussion going on for the motronic front wiring harness. Found a link to a site where an individual was doing a 2.7l to 3.2l conversion. So, he had to deal with the DME wiring harness as it wouldn't exist in a 2.7. Click on the link below and scroll about 2/3 of the way down. He'll talk about the DME pins...and then scroll some more and he highlights sections of the front motronic harness and what he did. Just more good info that we can validate in the diagrams.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marc...ifications.html

Jim

Thanks Steve.

I plan to have the engine installed and running by the new year so I will detail my wiring experience in this thread as well (if you don't mind Jim).

I will be using a 85 model year engine with the PMS jumper harness.

Great info. The wiring is simple. All I did was buy the opposite 14 pin connector from Zims and build a harness to the 3.2 wiring. All I used was the 911 haynes manual and the 914 manual to figure out the wiring. The engine would of started first try if it wasn't for a pinched fuel line under the tank. I also dumped the relay board in the engine compartment and connected everything direct.

Steve from Laguna...since yours is running...could you tell us what you did with the wires on the DME harness that, in a 911, route into the front trunk of the car?

Steve & Jim - Do you have any other details of your build/conversion? Pics? I understand the big picture but it's the small details that I'm trying to pick up. Did you also upgrade trans, brakes, add gauges, ect? Thanks, mark

I installed it 8 years ago. The motor came out of a 1984 gray market 911, which means it's a Euro 3.2 motor. Let me take some pictures and dig up my notes tonight after work. The only thing going to the front trunk is the fuel pump wiring. Otherwise it's just the gauge wiring and power connections under the dash. I also bought the tach and oil combo gauge out of the same car. I bought a separate round fuel gauge from AA that matches the sender and installed that in the dash next to the cigarette lighter. My car also has Boxster brakes and a Gt stiffening kit. I am also using the 911 emergency brake. The trans is the stock 901 with a Kep adapter ring and clutch. Regarding the trans I either start off in second or baby first gear.

Mark, FWIW, here is my build thread. I knew what I wanted but lack the skills. Joe(Series9) did all the work. My 3.2

Yes, Ive read it, a couple times. It's guys like you that have placed me in this situation.

Scotty B is going to do all the work on the engine install but I want to have everything as ready as possible and lots of back up documentation so I can pay him for the work and not the research.

I found this diagram last night in the owners manual that came with the 911....good diagram highlighting all the connection points.

Click to view attachment

Mark...I'll snap some shots later that show what I've currently done to the engine compartment, tranny and motor.

Here's a link to my last 3.2 conversion. There are a few pics.

My Blog

Will an optima battery fit in the normal location with the 3.2?

ok...I think I have the mystery solved...I'll verify when I get the wiring diagrams from Steve. But I used a combination of web based diagrams, info in this thread, a detail PM from Steve and searching the 911 tech forum on the bird board. So, here are the basics...there is 1 big wire and 2 additional harnesses in the forward section of the DME harness.

1. The big black wire labeled #3 in my first picture obviously goes to the positive side of the battery terminal

2. the bundle where I labeled #2 and #5 on my pic has the red/green wire (fuel pump), a black wire (coil) and another black wire (DME 5). I had labeled the red green with the painters tape with the 911 fuse box label as "fuel pump" and the black wire I had labeled "backup lights". The other black wire wasn't labeled but it is the DME 5 wire. I saved the 911 fuse/relay box cover and was able to line up the labels with the fuse positions. Then, on a 911 current flow diagram i traced them out and both of these black wires terminate on the inlet side of the 2nd fuse box (terminal #8 at 16a). I traced them back to the coil and DME Relay! The red/green wire also terminates on the inlet side of the 2nd fuse box (terminal #3 25a). So, I would think for the 914 we just need to find the right inlet side fuse box terminals to connect these to?

3. the 2nd bundle has a black, black-violet and yellow wire (labeled these #6 in my picture). The black/violet and the black both go to the tach on the 911 diagram. The yellow goes to the ignition switch on the 911 diagram. Looks like we just need to splice them into the corresponding wires on the 914.

4. there was an independent green/yellow wire with a green extension that just poked out of the harness (I labeled this #4 on my pic)....on a 911 these both connect into the Air Conditioning stuff.

So, all wires accounted for (I'll verify when I get steves diagrams)...now, all we need to figure out is which 914 fuse box terminals to tap into!?

Thanks Steve, bird board and anybody I missed for all the bit's and pieces! When we all get this stuff hooked up and working we'll have to document everything to make it ease for others to come!

Jim

Click to view attachment

A thought based on the info I outlined above. I have a 75 which has the seat belt warning relay under the passenger seat. The "yellow" wire from the switch routes through this relay....shouldn't I be able to tap into the yellow wire right off that relay?

Also, that same relay has the "start and run" black wire from the the fuse panel (fuse 9) which goes to the coil in 914 harness. Tap in here?

Just a thought, again I'm not an electrician, but I'd sure like to minimize having to move wires around near the fuse box!

Now you are tracking on the right path. You might consider that the wires for the start only and start & run positions will end near the instruments. Lay out the wiring harness and get the general layout of the different endings along with the relay and computer placement. This little function will or should answer a lot of questions you may now have with all this information.

If that relay under the right seat does the same thing as under 74, you probably want too consider eliminating it entirely. On the 74, the relay is a weight pressure switch which requires someone/weighted object to in in the seat before you can start the car. The elimination would be to connect the incoming large yellow wire and the large yellow wire going to the starter.

Now back to the ignition positions: Start & Run - find the fuse that the wire going back to the old relay board. I would take a look at the side of #9 fuse to see where you can get power. Start Only - should be a little different since you have to tap into the the wire going from the ignition switch (#50 at the switch; color yellow; verify that it goes to the starter via #1 pin connection on the 914 side of the 14-pin connector (ref: Patrick's Adaptor). I would do this tap somewhere down line from the ignition switch and somewhere near the engine harness termination point for these activities. By doing this above you will keep the original harness intact except for the Start Only position and what you may do to eliminate the relay under the right seat.

Joe Sharpe did a great job on MoveQik's Sixer!!! It is one of the threads that needs to be read in detail.

The thread from the Pelican Board is a great one also, but it covers/indirectly sourced from Sixer conversions generally with excellent points, may refer to some elements for CIS which is a different animal than Motronics. Definitely a major detail read to understand.

There are many other threads on these different boards covering the Sixer 3.2 conversion. They can be researched and studied in equal detail. They are excellent.
Some names that popup are Summersled(?), A914Guy, MoveQik, Joe Sharpe, and many others which I did research several years ago. I cannot remember their names but they deserve the credit for providing quality information regarding the 914 3.2 engine conversion. Some more names are Sir Andy (3.6 conversion), McMark, Brad Mayeur; Yes, even Brad Roberts (disregarding the Politico Events, he really helped people including myself). Just so many who have done a great job in providing information so we can do our hobby, building Sixer 3.2 conversions. Enough said about that.

There is information available from these different sources that should at least give a background in what has been used; and, the people who answered this thread as well as other historic contributors can give you information. Pelican Board has a very good general background paper and list of parts including what to generally look for during the conversion. There many pros and cons concerning such things as transmission to which MoveQik states and alludes to when using the 901 transaxle.

I think the extra items which some of you are getting to can be readily provided but may be out of timing with this thread. I would like to keep the thread within the frame work of the electrical and problems surrounding it. Generally, we can give you whatever information that you need to get a valid pro and con using a one-on-one basis; or, we can undertake that information as everyone needs it.

You have to participate in getting a background on this info since you will be the one doing the work (hopefully), and you can have understanding in what is going on within your electrical, fuel, etc. systems.

Sorry I got long winded but the more you understand, the easier the conversion will be.

It's obvious you've not just done the research but thought alot about this conversion. What have you decided to do for oil cooling? I will convert the on engine cooler to the 90 degree fitting but I'm still undecided about running lines to the front of my car. Your thoughts? Thanks, mark

Has everyone got a basic understanding of what is happening regarding the wiring??

We have not touched on the oil pressure, oil temperature, vacuum gauge, etc. wiring. This should fall into place after you get use to what is going on with the changes thus far.

It has also be asked for my opinion regarding oil cooler, hoses, etc. Also, what I have done to my car. The way I am going to answer the question which I think is one of how to get the project started and completed to a running state. I did not want to get involved in this yet since there are still many practical questions to be answered. One of guys is planning on getting his conversion done some where around the first of the year. So the following is the way I am going to answer it with the express idea of building to running state.

Please, anyone chip in and add their comments especially in areas I may have left out or made wrong comments.

First, let us get away from the front oil cooler and what the needs/opinions are since it is not necessary to get the car running. Mark, I will send you more detailed information regarding additional items (including oil cooler, etc) after I finish this thread addition.

What is needed to get the engine in the car and running:

engine sheet metal
front engine mount
914-6 oil tank or equivalent
oil system hoses
rear transmission mounts
modified shift rod with new bush, pins, universal joint, etc.
KEP clutch package including ring
cut knotches in 901/915 transmission bell-housing
1984-86 ??? flywheel
throttle rod, yoke assembly
modified throttle engine yoke assembly (throw needs to be reversed, 911)
headers at least (no heat - separate problem which can be solved after engine
is running; electric heater, gas heater, heat exchangers, etc.)
electric connections being discussed in this thread
engine oil cooler with 90degree elbow modification (to clear left suspension)
exhaust muffler
installation of fuel pump, fuel filter, and lines

There may be more and please add to this check list freely so that we may get all present and future Sixer builders the information on sources and parts. I think all the parts can still be obtained either through Auto Atlanta, Pelican Parts, A914Guy, and others. A list can be developed but do not forget our own 914world, 914club manufacturers/suppliers.

I guess I have opened everything up for comments and additional information from everyone in order to assist our new "Sixers".

Now to comment on several areas including the front oil cooler.

Front Oil Cooler: is going to be somewhat expensive; you may need it in the summer time in North East, South East, Mid-west, and Southwest including Southern California; there are many opinions on this subject matter on many different boards and I will not make any comments because I do not know the answer; each has to determine for him/her self. With that comment made, the items needed will be hoses re routing the engine output side to the thermostat/bypass valve, one line returning from thermostat/bypass valve to the oil tank; one thermostat/bypass valve; two lines to/from front oil cooler; front oil cooler and mounting; shrouding; air inlet and outlet; fan system;etc.
As mentioned before it gets expensive quickly and it does not affect the problem of getting your engine installed and running. This system can be added later when you can concentrate on it entirely. Very similar to adding 911 e-brake, different CV joints, axles, bearings, stud shafts, etc.
There are some very good expertise on the subjects coming up later in the total car build; these sources are McMark, Sir Andy, Joe Sharpe, Rootwerks ???, A914Guy, Pelican, Auto Atlanta, our 914world and 914club boards, Brad Mayeur, Perry Kiehl in Tennessee, and many others. Even the "Great Doc Evil" is somewhat of a source. KEP (Kennedy out of Palmdale, CA). Cannot mention everyone but you get the general idea.

Again, who every wants to comment come-on aboard!!!!

What have I done to my car?? First one has to understand my background being involved with cars, etc. I enjoy the engineering aspects and the restoring of our cars. I deal mostly in roller chassis which need some kind of tender car. Because of this base, I do not stay with stock restoration. I like to modify and make changes. I am on the second 914 build which both came from the junk yard; the first was a Chev V-8 conversion before this type conversion became popular; not much in the way of parts and kits as there are available today. The second is the present car which has extensive mods to it including all the questions and problems any builder is facing today.

From the front of the car, I have put an oil cooler with appropriate lines, cooler, thermo/bypass valve (Troutman style, original style) mounted in the right forward engine bay, and some additional items tied to the oil system which I will not comment on until I see if it works. I have installed four front turbo fans (250 cfm each) and ducted air exit from the oil cooler

At first i was going to use a 2.2 or 2.7 engine but deferred to the 3.2 based on the Motronic Fuel Injection System, wiring engine to car, clutch/flywheel conversion, engine dependability, exhaust side case bolt problems, engine availability, altitude, temperature ranges in high country, desert, and seasonal traveling.

I have installed a 1987 Carrera front suspension and brake system; added new brake rotors - drilled and slotted in front; front 21mm torsion bars; 22mm swaybar; turbo tie-rods; rebuilt rack & pinion; new front inner and outer wheel bearing; 23mm brake master cylinder (planning larger brakes later; use 19mm on 914, 914-6 or even Carrera brakes; again alot of experience on this matter; see Eric Shea on brakes).

I have also rebuilt my pedal assembly, put in both inner long/cross member bracing and outer longs, upholstery installed, gear shift rebuilt, 911 instruments and dash cover. I have wired in the oil temperature and pressure gauges, vacuum gauge, amp gauge, oil cooler fan switches and relays, harness change from '74 to '73, stainless steel brake hoses (many think original rubber hoses are better; change these hoses every two years), 3.2 Carrera 1987 engine with all the requirements mentioned previously, etc.

In addition, I am running 911 Cup II l7 inch rims: 7in in front; 9in in back; 2in spaces in front; 1.5 inch spacers in rear (have to check if anyone needs information); fiberglas wide fenders; 901 transaxle (will handle the 3.2 but be careful with first and second gears).

I am running a 911 oil tank in the rear trunk of the car with double batteries. My reasoning for using the 911 Carrera oil tank is to match the oil capacity requirements of the 3.2 engine and it allows me to place it in the rear trunk with room to spare. I had rust in the back so I just cut out rust and made a tank installation. I added double batteries in parallel to provide a safty margin for the front oil cooling fans that I added. My calculations show I am right under the output on the generator so the extra capacity in the batteries should be enough of a margin. Not all the fans will be required at once most of the time;

I also added 911 foot well heater fans inside the car; we will see how the electric load covers all the electrical needs.

The heat source is going to be engine oil right out of the engine; I want the engine to run 180-200 degrees even on the hottest days in the desert. The heat exchanger will give me extra cooling capacity from the engine oil stand point. Engine oil appears to heat up at the rate as coolant. The front oil cooler also affects this system so we will see how effective it works both for the hottest days and the coldest days. Experimental now; hopefully practical in the future.

A possible oil cooler which can be used in lieu of the front cooler and lines is one found in the NASCAR/hot rod arenas. It is one usually made of finned aluminum ranging from 18 inches to 36 inches and can be mounted along the longs. It probably can be used without a thermostat/bypass valve if kept close to the engine oil outlet (say within the engine compartment and used in line with the return hose to the tank; range of cooling 10-20 stated by some people who have used them). I have also seen one setup and priced at $200.00 plus dollars which is on the engine inlet side from the oil tank. I question whether cooling on that side is where I want any cooler. I think it should be on the engine outlet side. Need to plan and evaluate this possibility along with the front oil cooler after you get your engine installed and running.

Future plans involve rear 911 Carrera and E-brake conversion (yes, I am going to call on Eric Shea for this) and changing rear half shafts/CV joints (yes, I am going to start with Sir Andy on this), Sway-A-Way 20.5 inch shafts, 911 hubs (early), 100mm CV joints, etc.

Rear suspension and front suspension have Koni Adjustables installed; the rear has adjustable perches and 180-200 lb springs; rear sway bar stock 16mm (to install locked differential later).

That should be it in a "nutshell" and "Yes" I have looked and thought about many things along the path of being a totally "Sicko" regarding Porsche. What an enjoyable path to follow and that is because of the people you get involved with. I enjoy projects and Porsche people who are doing their own thing!!!

Mark, I hope this is the information you wanted with some of my comments; at least it is a basis to add to any questions you may have. I am not an expert on this car or any car changes; you must learn these things for yourself which will add tremendously to you Porsche Hobby.

Boy, do I talk - this is the most I have every said in one setting.

Again, Pardon me being long-winded.

Steve Hurt

I bought and learned how to use a multimeter! So, after pouring through all the "current flow diagrams" and all the good electric information supplied so far...I thought I'd publish how the Patrick Motorsports 914-4 to 3.2l conversion harness is pinned out (eliminates the relay board). Note, he has also provisioned some extra wires on both ends of the harness to help with six gauges on one side and 914-4 heater blower on the 914 side. So, here is my crudely done diagram (sorry...used powerpoint to draw it)!

Click to view attachment