Hey, but it worked great... a true 1 ton press....haha

ok so heres the update.
heres what we got done:
removed front a arms and replaced bushings (new URO's) thanks Eric Shea
followed the instructional video and it worked great. instead of a press we used some PVC plumbing adapter pieces, one size to push on the collar, and one size to push the bushing onto the arm. then used a floor jack to push the assembly up against the bottom of the lift with the car on it. lots of soap and telling the bushing how we would by it dinner and viola...they went right on

installed the new bilstein strut inserts in the front man they are purty.
replaced the front rubber brake lines
swapped out the rear shocks with bilsteins and 100 lbs springs

unfortunately the bearing replacement did not go well.
i bought replacement bearings for a 74 914 but apparently, that is not what i needed. with the new bearings installed on the rotors, the back of the rotor is hitting the splash plate mounting bolts thinking i had somehow got the wrong bearings, i found out the sell 914 bearings at autozone!! the one place i didnt check for them! so i quickly got a 2nd set of bearings and got them back to Cesar's. but upon measuring them, we found they were the same size as the previous set made by NTK (i think) but both of these measured 1/2 a millimeter smaller then the original bearings we removed.
well thats great. keep in mind this car is in the middle of Cesar's garage so we needed to get it mobile again.

well with the splash guards removed the rotors spun freely so i left them off so we could get the car out of there and reassembled it.

now for the funny part. one of the things i failed to mention earlier is the car has been missing the grease caps on the front end since i got it i got some from good ole Bruce and planned on installing them when we got the front end done...Wrong! the grease caps do not fit on the rotors!

we got the car back together and bleed em and i drove it home(by now its almost 8pm) on the short drive i noticed when turning the front end would wobble and clunk..YIKES!!! its new safely back in its nest that is formerly known as my garage and i will be going back at it soon

what the hell rotors do i have?
the saga continues
i will most likely post a new thread with some pics as soon as i get it apart again

tune in next time...same bat time...same bat channel...

If you guy's wait up I did a short teaser ....up loading it now

it working now...utube
914 party




Video embedded by Admin:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCBpgD_1Hp0

linky no workie

spoiler alert...it does not have a happy ending

ugh... i wanna move to cali.

I have a few hrs of footage, again I will do a fun edit as soon as I can....

Awesome teaser! Thanks Jaime!

Dave, tommorow after school, I'll tear apart my spare '74 front suspension and see if we missed a step, or if I can see a noticeable difference in rotors or struts...

I just noticed something Dave, the back side of that rotor looks like a 70-72 brake rotor. The front however has the correct hub-centering ring that says it's a 73-76 brake rotor... I think you need new rotors...

haha if all goes well so will I. hopefully sneaking out of spring valley around 1 pm..home by 3 under car by 3:05....
if you get the rotor off see if u can locate the part # on the spindle side
thanks, Dave

The only part number on the rotor is "88" or at least from what I can see from the surface. They also appear to be the early style brake rotors... Why they're on a '74, I'll never know.. Maybe at some point the struts were switched. who knows...

are we talking yours or mine?

You gents are frustrating me. Take some pictures damnit.

My 1974 parts car has boge struts and the early style non centering hub brake rotors. They have 88 stamped on them..

Eric .

thanks Ethan.

i was gonna make a new thread on this but heres the rotors i have
note the part# (looks to me ) says "075B" which i thought i had read somewhere that 075 is early rotors and 075B is late but im off to research that now....

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Front brake rotor 411.407.075 1970-Early 72 1.7L VW 1971-74 411/412, VW 1972-73 Type 3
Front brake rotor 411.407.075A Late 1972-73 1.7L, 2.0L VW 1971-74 411/412, VW 1972-73 Type 3
Front brake rotor 411.407.075B 1974-76 1.8L, 2.0L VW 1971-74 411/412, VW 1972-73 Type 3



i just pulled this from:
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

Those rotors are late "hub centric".

Look at where your ball joints attach to the strut. Does the end have a slit and pinch bolt or are they solid with a double taper pin holding in the ball joint?

uh what? no, IIRC the ball joint had a slit in it that had to be aligned with the strut mounting hole and a pin pushed through which is threaded on one end and held on with a nut.
lemme see if i can find a EPV or an actual pic...thanks Slits..

dont know if this helps...i will keep looking:

Click to view attachment

Look at post #117
From looking at your pic,, I think a previous owner used the wrong inner wheel bearing. That would explain why the correct bearings allowed your rotor to hit the splash plate. The inner bearing race is pressed in too far, just look at the pic.
That's just my .02,, take it for what it's worth.

-Robert
PS,, Hey OldSchool,, when are you going to come and get your engine mount? I had to kick down my machinist buddy a couple of bucks to get it done.

Where is your wheel seal? Did you guys put that back in?

If it had a slit in it, with a fastner and nut, you have EARLY struts and they take a different rotor. I may have two new ones in my stash (which I will never use). You need them, they're in Riverside. If you are interested, I will look tomorrow to see if they are still where I stashed them.

Sounds like he's describing a later pin.

Everything is correct from what I can see. Seal? No Seal?

[color=#000000]the seal was in i just removed everything again today to get the part# and pics.
i think your right Slits im just trying to get the PET pdf to open so i can confirm. i am interested in you rotors and can be in Riverside tomorrow afternoon.
i definetly dont want to replace the front end just to use 74 bearings

thanks for the all the input fellas much appreciated. Dave

Maybe Eric, but if the strut had a slit in the bottom for the pinch bolt .. ah, forget it.

PET won't show you shit about the struts unless you look at the pins / bolts that attach them.

Slits,
I remember looking at the balljoint retaining bolt, it has 2 flat spots on it, as in a double taper. Eric, everything was re-installed as it came out except we used new bearings and seals. The inner bearing (new bearing) is a tight fit on the spindle. When I tried to remove the rotor after we noticed the rubbing, the inner bearing and the seal popped off of the rotor and remained on the spindle. We removed the dust shields and assembled the entire unit. the calipers are not rubbing against the rotor, but the clearance between the 2 is very, very close.
Cesar

heres the strut pin in question...

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EXTREME CLOSE UP!!!!

thanks guys, DAve

and yes i am a student of Sir Andy's artistic photog university

Late.

Shoot a pic of the spindle please.

cool so i have late struts, late rotors, and late bearings
it all makes sense now...

dude you rock just let me know when.....and don't forget your going to be on camera

der spindle:

Click to view attachment

All basically boiling down to wrong bearings.

Late Rotor
Late Strut
Spindle has the spacer installed on it
Dirty Late Calipers (SHAME ON YOU!)

Want me to send you some or...?

So that's it? They're the wrong bearings altogether?

Hard to be an armchair quarterback but, everything else seems to be factory stock. Everything else was working before it was removed and the bearings are the only new part of the equation.

Sometimes they don't go on the spindle just right and they need to "pop" to get them on there but, it sonds like you guys were "more" than on the spindle.

I'm guessing the bearings had a larger opening and are allowing the rotor to ride further back on the spindle than they should.

Robert could be right in a sense... although I don't know how you could press a race in "too far". They stop where they stop but... those races may be too shallow and the bearing would then ride further out on the spindle, allowing the disc to ride too far inward and rub.

You're right Eric,, you can't press a race on too far,, I just took a look at a hub I had around and you gotta be a gorilla to press it on too far. I was grasping at straws there. But the OP does mention that the bearings didn't match dimensionally with his replacements. I read somewhere that timken, skf, fag, bearings you can swap the races,, if using another brand you'd be safer replacing the race. Perhaps the bearings that were replaced had different dimension races.

-Robert

Please tell me you didn't put new bearings in with old races ..... please!

Brand new bearings and races were installed...

I think in theory Robert might be right about that bearing being in to far though...

If it's a thinner bearing race (it does look a tad deep in there), that would place the bearing "outward" on the spindle meaning; you would have to push the rotor "inward" a tad further to get the bearing to engage in the proper spot on the spindle. 1-2mm would be enough to cause these issues I would think.



Even you can look at the pictures can't ya Festus?

I could be way off but this is the area of concern AND the fact that they're saying the bearings are measuring off (which is more curcial than anything).

Click to view attachment

If you still have the old bearings, clean them up a bit and slip them over that bare spindle. See how far they go up the spindle. Mark it with a Sharpie. Then slip the new bearing on the spindle and mark how far it goes.

Great Video Old school. Dave keep us updated if the new rotors will fix the issue. I had a great time hanging out and watching other people fix Dave's car. The beer and hot dogs were good too.

Ravi

X2....one set made by nmt or something....new bearings AND races....didnt work so i thought great...wrong bearings...went to autozone (thanks werty) and picked up brand new Timken brand bearings and races.....put those in...same shit.

unless some genuis machined the rotors to accept different bearings?

That would be:

Die Spindel

or 3 different people pressed the races in further then they should have gone?

I don't think so... the races fit. Tell us agin where the bearings measured differently.

Did you order by Vehicle from AutoZone or by bearing number?

my 2 years of high school german really paid off