Need help with fule injection for 1.7 1970. cant get the fuel to the engine. tried putting fuel in every line. checked fuel flow to the pump. seems to have a little air past the filter (new) pump is sluggish after rebuilding and cleaning the varnish out. i would think yhay the pump would pull fuel to the bay right? with the engine turning over but not starting the pump runs. i do have some vacuum lines gone but the big main one is there and the distributer line as well. please help. im ordering a new pump because i just dont think it is operating as it should. thanks

The fuel comes from pump to pressure regulator. if the pump is operating, but no fuel to the injectors, it may be the pressure regulator.

You need an inline fuel pressure gauge to check for sure.

Have you pulled the injectors and tested to see if any fuel sprays out when the pump is on? That will at least tell you if the pump is working.
Or simply look at the lines running up into the engine bay to see if fuel is moving in them. I was having similar issues and found out fuel was not getting to the pump. I disconnected the line at the filter and the gas came running out from the tank. Hooked it back up, and it started fine. Had an airlock so wasn't moving the gas.

pump isnt pumping sufficiently at all.

after replacing my fuel pump, i'm at similar loggerheads. 70-914nut, what did you pay for your new pump and where did you get it?

thanks for your post, poorsche914! i'm thinking my replacement pump needs to somehow be primed before it can move any fuel.

The two most likely problems are that the hoses are hooked up to the wrong ports on the pump, or that the wires to the pump are plugged on to the wrong pins.

S == Suction; gets the hose from the fuel filter
D == Druck (German for Pressure); goes to the driver's side fuel rail
R == Return; goes to the Y that is hooked to the fuel pressure regulator and to the return port on the fuel tank

--DD

auto atlanta rebuilt mine. just installed it but cant get fuel past the regulator on the supply line. trying to get it unclogged now.

The regulator goes on the return line, not the pressure ("D") line. The pressure line goes to the right side fuel rail, that gets connected to the left side rail, that gets connected to the regulator, which gets connected to the return line. (And the Y fitting to the "R" port on the pump.)

--DD

getting fuel to the injectors but not out of them. not a drip. relay good, not sure of the wiring. NEED HELP!

Your injectors may be "stuck". Take them out and push on the "pintle" (little metal piece at the end of the injector where the fuel should spray out) and see if you can feel it move / click (if you still have them hooked up to the fuel system, gas will come out). If it doesn't easily do this, you need to send them out to be cleaned (www.cruzinperformance.com) - or buy new ones.

Also, you need the correct fuel pressure to make them work. Tee a gauge into the line ahead of the FPR. Report back your fuel pressure on your next post so everyone here can help you.

if the wiring is not correct, which i am searching now ie open from the oil pressure switch power will not get to the injector. at least thats what the wiring diagram says. my wiring is not in great shape. trying to sort out and make sure all of the connections are where they need to be. By the way where is the oil pressure switch located. i cant seem to find it

injectors stuck. trying to free them.

Don't "try" too hard. Better to send them out to be cleaned/tested by someone who works with them then mess them up. And the oil pressure switch is on top of the engine close to the distributor IIRC.

Thanks scott going to buy new ones monday. 48.00 a piece plus cores from AA hat going to them but i cant find any other sorces

Do you know if your FI is energizing the injectors?

You can test this in 2 ways:

First, disconnect the +12V from the ignition coil. Tape the spade up if you think it might hit chassis ground. Removing +12V from the coil will allow you to turn the ignition on and test the FI w/o burning up your points or Pertronix.

With +12V off of the coil, turn ignition to ON and open the intake butterfly.

You should hear the injectors click. This should test if the injectors even operate.

Then remove the distributor. You can take the cap off, that is not needed here. But do keep the FI contacts connected.

With the ignition ON, spin the distributor with your hand. This will simulate the engine running, and the fuel pump should turn on and as you spin the rotor, you should be able to hear the injectors opening and closing.

You can even test for fuel flow by pulling out the injectors and placing them in a jar to see the spray. But you have to keep turning the distributor.

GO STEELERS Im not even sure my pressure regulator is conected correctly. I applaud your info on testing the injectors which may also be my problem. I do know the relay is good! thats about it. pretty frustrated at this point.

does anyone have a pic of the 1.7 pressure regulator and the hose routing? I am a little confused. I may have mine installed incorrectly.

Here's my engine before installation.

In the pic, the fuel runs to top right cylinder (#4), across to #3, down the left side to #1, then over to #2, then to the pressure regulator, then back to the fuel tank.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_...4_18FI_diag.htm

That diagram is not for your car but it clearly shows the positioning of the presure regulator.

Probably the first thing you want to do is see if you have fuel pressure. There is a tap on the drivers side fuel rail to hook up a guage. If you don't have a guage you can at least put a hose on that port and make sure you are moving fuel. If you aren't you have to first look at your connections as per Dave's post. If the plumbing is all good then you may have to suspect the pump. The 3 port pumps can be a pita.

ok let me see supply, druck and return. the line from the tank goes to supply(after the filter) on the pump. what confuses me is that the d and r lines tee off the pump to one line going to the engine. correct?

great lopking engine jerry thanks. now i need to make sure the lines fron the pump going to the engine are correct. Helppppp

You need to take a step back, put the tools down, put the wallet away, and think things through.

-How do you know your injectors are stuck?
-Why don't you put a fuel pressure gauge in the system to make sure that your pump is getting gas where it needs to go?
-Why don't you use Spoke's testing method to see if the injectors work?
-Trace out your fuel lines from the tank to the filter, to the pump, to the engine, to the FPR, back to the pump and back to the tank. Sketch it out on a piece of paper - take a picture of the sketch and post it. From Cap'n Krusty: "Outlet from pump (D) to rear end of right fuel rail. Front end of rt rail to cold start valve on 1.7/1.8, and from there to the front end of the left rail. Rear of left rail to fuel pressure regulator, regulator to Y at fuel pump. The "Y" has a short hose to the return port on the pump, and the 3rd leg goes to the tank. "

Listen to the advice people are giving you - it'll get your car on the road much faster than randomly doing things.

Anyone close to this person to help out??? Where's that member map??

have stopped for a while to gather all the info you guys have given me to help me. I will continue slowly, but i have to get new injectors because one of them has a cracked plastic tip on the end. ALSO JUST for peace of mind down the road. Even if every thing is backwards once they are sorted out i know it will run that much better. My pump was toast from bad fuel, my tank was really bad from sitting so long. So fixing these things will erase them from becoming "did you check" in the future. Any advice i get from you guys is greatly appreciated since i am new to 914's. 70 911t, 67 camaro, 70 chevy stepside 383 stroker, 98 camaro ss, 05 hemi durango(wifes) 2010 mazda speed3(sons) 96 Vw cabrio(daughter)oh forgot the 70 IH scout with a 400 small block. Love working on all cars. Just get a little antsy when trying to get one going for the first time. Thanks again and keep sending the info.

oh by the way, po bypassed the cold air valve and went with one fuel line to each rail. Do i really need the cold air valve in the system?

I have a `70 1.7L as well that had been sitting for 30 Years. After about two years of on and off work it is a daily driver.

I had the same issues. I agree with the info posted so far.

Order a VDO fuel pressure gauge from JEGS and mount it in line with the fuel hose upstream of the fuel pressure regulator. This will tell you a lot about what is going on and will allow you to instantly troubleshoot and eliminate many issues. Mine is mounted permanently between the cold start valve and the driver's side fuel rail.

You don't necessarily need to replace that injector with the cracked pintel cover - it is just a plastic slip on cap, if I understand what you described. If you do know that you have fuel pressure and power to the injectors first and you know that your injectors are "pulsing" or "firing" then you'll know that your injectors are clogged and you can send all of them off to be cleaned and serviced. There are several reputable service guys - search the posts here.

Stick with the hose plumbing guide that was posted from the Pelican Parts website it is the same for the 1.7L fuel lines. If you go changing things too much - it will make it more difficult for us to help you figure out what is going on and how to get you back on the road. If you follow the advice given and provide answers to the questions we can save you some time, and most importantly, money$$$$ that you can spend on fixing other problems.

Hang in there.

Also, you may want to check out this from Jeff Bowlsby's site:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man06.pdf

More documents here:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm


Jeff has a great collection of resources!!


Brian

huh?

no you don't need the cold start valve. Only kicks in near freezing anyway. But the fuel has to go from the 'd' to the passenger fuel rail then across the the front of the engine to the drivers side rail then the pressure regulator, then the return port of the pump. The return port of the pump is the one that is tee'd.

Wasn't there a batch off AA three port pumps that had the ports reversed? IIRC though they had no SRD labelling on them.