I welded a new jack tube on to the replacement wheelhouse section from Restoration Design today, aligning it perfectly with the square hole that came pre-punched in the new panel. When I started fitting the jack post brace, I had to adjust the bends on it by about 1/8" to get it to fit right. I am having a hard time getting accurate measurements from the old chunk of long I have because it is a disaster.

The question is, how reliable is the pre-punched guide hole? Should I just roll with it? Anyone else run into something similar?

Thanks in advance.

Pics:

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Everything "reproduction" I ever buy requires some kind of customizing and fiddling with to get it to fit right. Is the bottom picture to show that the post is NOT fitting well? I think you're going to be fine. Once you drill it for the plug welds and get the first one done, you can use a drift to snug down the gap before each subsequent weld. I actually think that looks pretty good.

The bottom pic was to show what things were looking like after adjusting the bends on the support piece. My main concern was that I had to "move" both bends on the support piece up about 1/8" to make it fit right.

Thanks for the info...I thought I may be splitting hairs...just didn't want to end up realizing that the jack post was to high when I go to put the outer fiberglass rocker on.

Moving the bends 1/8 of an inch is NOTHING! These are repro parts. Some assembly required.

I don't think your getting good weld penetration judging from the pictures. Looks kinda "boogery". Are you using a MIG with or without gas?

When I replaced the jack point on the passenger side, I had to sink the jack tube into the long. I was told that production longs had an indentation behind the jack tube.

My jack tube does not stick out that far from the support plate. You may have to sink the tube into the replacement long.

Check the back of the original long piece to see if it is recessed.

MIG with gas. I agree, it was not my best welding. The problem I had was that I burned through the thinner sheet metal at first and had to turn down the heat setting a bit.

Nice , I have to do one of mine soon.

Start your weld and the thicker part and then let it "walk" over to the thinner sheetmetal. it happened to me as well. i had the open up as well the post cover.

d

Hey, by the way. Did you know that wheelhouse section is supposed to be 2 ply? If you didn't get the inner part when you got the new steel, shoot Mike at Resto Design a note and he can get it for you.

i normally put the long on then fit the jack post to it using the hole in the outer rocker as my guide. That way I KNOW it is where it should be. Which BTW is usually NOT where the hole is punched but is very close. I then mark that spot, take everything off and cut the tube down to the proper depth,then weld it all together

Thanks for the heads up...I only have one ply. I will check with Resto Design.

That's what makes it so squeezably soft

Thanks Scotty B. The punched hole seemed a bit off to me. With your method in mind, I will clamp everything in place and make sure the outer rocker fits properly BEFORE welding the adjusted jack post support in place. It will be a PITA to get that post off the wheelhouse, but I would rather know now.

I recommend ONLY Restoration Design from Canada's parts. It wasn't even close as to the quality of the other repro items out there.

I did both and had a pro weld the tube in using the plate as the guide. He even succeeded in getting the TOP of the plate welded without cutting the quarter panel.

He had it directly overhead and used a Mig or Tig something and was able to get both sides done. The jack plate was placed on measurements before the old plate was wheeled out.

Not easy, but my car will never have need for a repair on either side.

I even got to take pics of the longs with a mirror on the inside.

No rust at all.

But, not every car is the same challenge. I returned the red plate version to the company I bought it from. Resto Design stuff is killer.

Absolutely no fitting of any kind was needed.

John

Checked the fit of the outer fiberglass long with the the outer wheelhouse clamped in place. Everything looks pretty good...so I welded the jack post support on today. I made out a little better welding the tube to the plate using the "walk" method mentioned in this thread. Overall, I am pleased with the results...but ended up grinding quite a bit.

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

Test fitting the outer long:
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Weld thru primer/rust encapsulator applied:
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Finished product:
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That hole that is in the jack post tube needs to be filled in / covered up , else wise water and such will get into the long area defeating what you are replacing. Good luck...

Jack / Jaxdream

Got a response from Mike at Restoration Design...they are shipping the part right away. Thanks for this info!

Gonna wait & see if the 2nd ply addresses this, if not, I will make a cover and weld it in. Thanks for the tip!

Here's what the two pieces from RD look like.

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This has been quite an education for me - thanks targatoy! Anxiously awaiting the 2nd ply to see how this all goes together.

I just wish somebody made the same wheelhouse parts for the driver's side. Mine was nearly as rotten on that side as the PS and I had to make all of that area myself before adding the RD jack post. It's been very time consuming. ...but rewarding!

I agree! My drivers side doesn't look as bad, but I still think I will end up making some parts from scratch. I may have to hit you up for some pics of what you did!

I am seeing more and more rotted drivers sides that people want repaired. Mike

The bottom piece (the inner piece) is no longer listed on Restoration Design. AutomobileAtlanta has the inner piece. If you are just buying the outer piece, you need to fab some inner 16 gauge layers. This part of the car is indeed two layers and those two layers stop where the jackpost meets the longitudinal (horizantal) part.

Joe

The two pieces now come spot welded together


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Excellent! Very helpful.