I decided the next step, after rust repair would be the 5-lug conversion. Since the engine is out, I thought it would be easier to hammer at those hubs.

A. Before
B. Wheel placed next to car to give impression of what the end product will look like
C. I followed the Pelican article. The Hub and Bearing came out not too bad.
D. Removed the trailing arm for painting.

So the left bearing is out, and it wasn't too bad. I did use WD-40 and I did have to hammer a bit, but it went very smoothly. I used that hammer in the picture and the handle off my floor jack. Hopefully the other side will be easy, being that I put that bearing in a few yars ago.

More photos...

E. Another Impression. Thats a reproduction Fuchs, and I have two of them if anyone wants them.
F. This is the only problem I had. The Pelican article said I needed to let off the brake clearance. But this allen is stripped inside. I guess I am going to have to take a vise grip to it. Anyone else have this problem? Is this why my parking brake never worked very well?

Which allen head is stripped? The one on the adjuster you have pictured?

I just redid my rear brakes and I stripped the inboard aluminum dust caps. They were frozen to the caliper. I had to remove the caliper to get them off. I notched them with a die grinder so I could tighten and loosen them with a big ass screwdriver. BTW, Pelican sells steel inboard dust caps.

Correct me if I am wrong but if you loosen the nut that the allen screw goes through it will back off the tension on the screw and make it move freely! Right?

Jeff

Correctomundo!

I find it hard to believe that the adjuster allen head pictured is stripped. It's made out of steel. It seems it would be pretty hard to strip.

I've got two of them for you to hold in your hands....will you believe it then???

The threads don't strip, it's the socket that strips out from wrong size tool or just not being as smart as the caliper itself

I think your right, but the 13mm didn't budge easily. I will try again. However, I guess I just don't understand what those adjusters do. I thought that the caliper's pistons pushed the brake pads out each time you brake, and thus keeping your brakes continually adjusted. What is it exactly that you are adjusting with those inboard and outboard adjusters?

914 rear brakes aren't self adjusting. You are adjusting the clearance between the pad and the rotor. You'll find a cleareance specification in the Haynes manual.

Oh, and wait until you try and adjust the inboard one. It's a bitch getting the dust cap off. You also will need an allen key on a socket and short extension to get it through the trailing arm. Rear brakes are a bitch the first time you do it.

You can still avoid this problem by loosening the nut a touch before you attempt to turn the allen! This will free up the tension and give the allen free movement. When you have it adjusted, hold the allen still while you tighten the nut back to a firm grip!

Jeff

I just checked the inboard rear caliper adjustment allen screw. It's not there! There is just a threaded hole. Perhaps this is why my handbrake never worked well. Funny, but the break pads were wearing the same on the inboard and outboard. So what is there supposed to be here? Just an allen screw? Is there also supposed to be a cap?

There's supposed to be an adjuster inside the hole and an aluminum cap covering the hole (it keeps the adjuster from falling out).