I have a 73 2.0L and everything is stock. I am wanting to get atleast 150 HP and reliability. What is the best way of going about this? Also what is the price should i be looking at to do this?

Absolutely without a doubt-

2270 Type IV in my "C" stage of tune.... Best of every world and idles like she is stock!

Hell it even breaks 30 MPG in most cases!

150 BHP and 160 lb/ft of torque in most instances, Great torque down low- comes on hard at 3250 RPM and pulls straight to 7K!

Its good for dual purpose track and street driving. I have it perfected, but we are working every week to make it better.

Damn, I just realized this is my 1.000th post here....

Jake, you forgot his last question..

lol

(BTW Thanks for Sponsoring WCC!!!)

Nope, I didn't forget it- I just didn't answer it.

I never make pricing quotes till I talk to the customer in depth, else as soon as you do and something changes I get crucified for false advertisement!

One asshole last year tried to sue me for it!

C-U-S-T-O-M means that there is no set price...

Talking to them also weeds out the wankers....

Yep, I talk to over 1000 people a year...But sell only 60 engines. Lots of wankers!

I suggest budgeting at least $6K for that. At least... And it may be very significantly more.

A Six conversion is another option, but that will generally run you $10+ to do decently. The 3.0 motor can get you 200 HP and be reliable as a sledgehammer.

An SBC (Small Block Chevy) conversion can get you 300+ HP. The engine will be as reliable as a hammer, but you can start breaking other things relatively easily by that point. Figure $10K+ to do that one well also.

Yes, I know that you or your gramma or your neighbor or whomever did a Six conversion for sixteen bucks and it's perfect, or did a V8 swap for thirty-seven cents and it has won every concours in existance. But generally it costs quite a bit to do the swap no matter which way you go.

The Raby motor is a very attractive option, but you don't get to just ignore the motor for a quarter-million miles the way you would an SBC or a 3.0 Six.

--DD

I wouldn't even consider a six.. If you convert go straight to a Small Block!

If your gonna butcher and add weight- may as well do it all the way and atleast get some mega power!

don't forget that the -6 is going to add at least 100lbs to the car when your done. probably more.

and if your using a junkyard 911 motor, all bets are off on its true condition until its all bolted in.

check the rebuild prices on a -6.

dr

There is somthing to be said about a very lightweight well sorted 4 cylinder car. I have always found them more appealing for my style of driving, even in the face of less reliability compared to a 6. I just want something that can make the car go faster than my stock 1.8 when I do time trails.

...And with most six conversions people beef up suspension to 5 lug with bigger brakes, bigger wheels etc. I would venture to say most conversions weigh more than just the difference in engine weight.

Like has been said in the past. What do you want to do with it?
$/seat time <<< $/BPH.
L. McC

I was thinking more on the lines of modifying my current engine rather than swapping it out for a 6 or v8 or a new 4. I am looking to make this a light car with good handling for the street and i want it to be somewhat quick. So I was thinking of carbs/cams/lifters or maybe bore it out to 2.3-2.5 L but i dont know so i just need to know what would be the best for modifying this 2.0L.

crating it up and sending it to jake, that is the best modification for your motor.

Aside from sending it to jake, what can i do that will get the power up

you didn't say what your skill level is but nothing you can simply bolt on is going to do anything for an old 2.0 motor. personally, if I was going to spend many $1000's on parts to make 150HP I would have a professional build it right.

no offense, but are you really 17 years old?

yes i am only 17 and have been doing all the work on my car so far, but as far as the engine my dad and some of his friends are realy good with that stuff. Well how much power increase would there be if I bored it out to 2300cc(give or take) and then put some webers on it and then got some hydrolic cams and lifters

oh yeah, no offense takin

Hell I have a 17 year old that works for me.. he has been for 4 years now.

He built my 2270 test engine last year, and did a shit hot job... He has a full ride to Clemson staring in the fall, he will be majoring in Manufacturing engineering..... SO watch the hell out- we are just getting started!!

He can run every machine in my shop, and runs the balancer betterthan I do! Hell he can even run the dyno!

You realize the only difference between this and swapping in a different four is that you are doing the work yourself, right? You're talking a complete engine rebuild, with expensive hi-po parts.

Depending on about a zillion other factors, a combination like you list could make anything from about 80 HP up to 180 HP. Actually, scratch that. The hydro lifters and the cams that are compatible with that are not going to make you anything close to the top end of those numbers, they won't hold up to high valve opening rates, and they will tend to float more easily at high RPMs.

If you really need 150 HP, pull the motor and send it to Jake. Or have him put together a kit for you. Or do all the research you can, build the motor, test it, and live with however it comes out or build it over again to get closer to what you want... Those are pretty much the two ways to go.

--DD

Dave that was an excellent post.

Im only 18 (almost 19 ), and Im almost done with my 2056 rebuild. You might want to think about your HP numbers. Remember this isnt some 3500 pound subaru. 110 hp is quite a lot. You can do a 2056 rebuild for under 2 grand with a good core (atleast thats what Im trying to do). Or go for the sure thing and either buy a crate engine from jake, or a kit. I dont know about you, but 60% of the reason I bought a 914 over other cars was so I could rebuild my own engine... Its not too hard with Jake's video in the VCR (btw, that should be the FIRST thing you buy before you start your rebuild. hell, get it even if you're on the cusp of deciding whether you want to do the rebuild or not. its worth its weight in gold).

As you can see, A 2270 breaks down kinda like this. This dosn't include going back in several times. This was 3 years ago so add in inflation etc.

ok. this should warm things up. the hp chase is all fine and good. my mystery 2.0 with webers had me going as fast as i need to drive. if your car runs well, enjoy it, and put the money elsewhere on the car.

kevin

Hell, for that matter, I recently got all my vac. line issues tightened up, got the timing dead on and the valves just right on my stock 1.7 d jet, AND I FEEL LIKE I GOT A NEW CAR!!!

I understand that their are bigger engines and more HP to be had out there, but the point is, when well sorted out, the stock FI systems in these cars are pretty amazing in their ability to scoot these little buggers along with a very light engine. Heck I've got a pretty nice 2.0 waiting to go in the old girl, but as fun as the 1.7 is to drive right now, I'm not in any hurry.

Ah....who needs more power than the stock 1.7 provides. In reality, more power is a quest that is neverending. It is also used to cover-up your driving capabilities. Don't get me wrong, I really wish my car had more power, but you drive what you got. Just check out the autox times from the WCC, my little 1.7 with no sway bars held its own against the slew of 2.0L out there...8th overall.

-Britain

Amen Brother! Get it set up right and runnin' to the best of its abilities, and have a ball. You will be amazed at the handlng. If you want a car to go really really fast in a straight line, a 914 probably ain't the right car for ya.

Unless you are building "The Alien 2"

Yes, indeed it is. I cover my mistakes with a cloud of tire smoke
How do I fix this.....disconnect 2 plug wires?
Any driving advice you can help me out with?

I feel so inadequate......

Three years ago my kit was 250.00 CHEAPER than the prices on his spreadsheet!

Now that have went up some, but the prices even count all machine work done to the case, the best heads on the planet and a killer configuration that will never be duplicated.....

I agree with you 99.9% , but just try a time trial on a big track with a stock 1.7 or 1.8. You will feel like youre standing still. Then throw in an elevation change (uphill) into the mix. I will never forget what my POC instructor said first time I got the 1.8 on the track with him "man I thought my 924 was slow". The wcc AX course was very well suited for our less powerful cars becuase we could keep momentum going. If there had been one long straight in that WCC course after a first gear corner our times wouldnt have been close to the more powerful cars no matter how well driven.

But youre right, a 914, even in under powered state can breath down the necks of the fastest cars. I was chasing much faster cars on back side of Streets of Willow and making up 5-6 car lengths only to lose 7-8 car lengths on the straights.

A bigger engine can be SAFER to drive, more fun to drive, get better MPG than stock and RUN COOLER with a smoother idle and equal life expectancy.

These engines were over built from the factory for their power ratings. Increasing the VE of the engine is just an unbelievable thing in every aspect from tuning to acceleration...

I Love Type IVs, but not stockers.

Ok i think 150 is probably out of the question. So what about 120 or 110, how would i go about doing that?

2056, maybe carbs and a semi aggresive cam could getyou that, also, a head port/polish igger valves would help.

I agree with you completely. I was merely addressing the autox venue. However, even with longer straights I still manage to pull off some impressive times with my 1.7 when compared to 2.0 cars. But maybe thats just me...

-Britain