I've read the Pelican Tech Article Bird Board Brake Pads , the Eric Shea "914 Rear Caliper Adjustment Procedure" ES Procedure and the Cap'n Krusty procedure CK Procedure. Got a few questions.

1) To push the piston back so that the new (really thick) pad can be inserted, do you have to simultaneously turn the 4mm adjustment screw while putting pressure on the piston? On the driver side, I guess you would turn it CW since CCW moves the piston towards the disc (and it does move). When putting pressure on the piston without turning the screw, the piston didn't budge.

Regarding the following pics of the inner adjuster:
2) How can you see the inner cap to tell if it's easily going to come off using the 4mm hex on the 6" socket extension (through the control arm)?
3) Assuming I can get the inner cap off and out of the way, do you need to remove the inner washer and gear or just go ahead and stick the 4mm hex back in and turn?
4) If it seems like the cap is stuck, should I follow the Pelican method of removing the rear caliper (without disconnecting the brake lines)?

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

For the outer piston, yes, use some pressure to push it in while you attempt it. It could be that the internal adjuster mechanism inside the piston is rotating. For that you need a high speed wrench. Air wrenches are instant on and off. The velocity of an air wrench can make this move. For the inner piston, first, put a heavy glove on and move the arm back and forth. The piston is probably stuck a tad in the bore. This will break that bond.

Next, try the adjuster screw again. Yes, it is always good to apply some pressure but not always necessary.

Remember, the adjusters do nearly all of the work moving the pistons in and out. The outer one (the one you can see through the wheel acts like a normal screw. Turn it clockwise and you will pull the piston back into the caliper. The "inner" adjuster is the same except that it is gear driven so, that makes the entire operation work in reverse.

Again, move the handbrake arm first to see if you can break the piston free.



You should be able to look up from the bottom of the control arm to see it. Use your best judgement. You may want to get a drift to go through the hole in the arm first and smack the 10x1 gear cover. This can help break the bond that has. If you feel the 4mm hex starting to go, stop and remove it with the cold chisel. This way you can still use the cover until you purchase a proper 5mm one.



Just go ahead and stick the 4mm in there and turn. You would do well to watch the washer and make sure it doesn't come off though.



Pelican Text:
***Simply remove the two bolts that hold the rear caliper onto the trailing arm and the clip that holds the connection point between the rubber brake lines and the steel brake lines. You then should have enough room to take the caliper and get a set of needle-nose vise-grips on the stripped cap.***

I would not do this. First of all, let's address brake lines and how they're mounted to the control arm:

1. Early arms have a complete tab with a hole in it large enough for the end of the brake cable to go through it. The method of removing the clip will simply not work here but, it's not spelled out in that article.

2. Late arms have a slot that leads to the same size hole. If you have later arms you can remove the clip and slide the hose outward until the thinner hard line can slip up through the slot.

3. If the 4mm hex didn't work, I'll almost guarantee that needle nose pliers will only laugh at you... even Vise-Grip models.

In for a penny, in for a pound at that point. Leave the hardline on the caliper and disconnect it where it meets the softline. Take it to the vise and have at it.

Good luck.

Well, the inner adjuster cap was going to strip so I decided to take the caliper off (was able to remove without opening up the brake lines - late control arm). Surprisingly, after some PB Blaster and changing from a 4mm hex to a Torx T27 the cap came off.

Now the next problem - I can't seem to get the inner piston to retract all of the way (it will advance with the adjuster screw). It seems to be stuck at about a 1/8" which prevents me from being able to put in the new inner brake pad.

So, do I keep at trying to push the piston back in or is it rebuild time (wish it were buy a pair from you, Eric, but funds are a little tight)?

I'm guessing there's a pile of rusty crude built up inside the bore at the bottom of the bore. This is preventing the piston from going back all the way.

Regardless of what is holding it up at this point it's probably time for a rebuild.

One inside adjustment screw is keeping my months of work from driving down the road!

I hate you 914 rear caliper.


Almost ready to drill this cover off.

If you can't get it to work, consider rebuilt calipers.

Here is PMB Performance's website.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/calipers.html

Hope this helps.

Terry

Yes, I know about Eric's work.

I want to take her for a spin tonight!

If you have a cold chisel and a vice there is an easy way to get the inner cover off, but in involves removing the caliper from the car-which means bleeding the brakes. and it will permanently damage the cap.

Put the caliper in the vice and then drive the cold chisel into the cap until it s to notch the edge of the cap. Then angle the chisel in the direction you want the cap to spin(CC) and keep hammering. I have removed two caps this way without difficulty. To re-use a stripped cap I sawed a notch in it so a flathead screwdriver can be used.

see picture.

I borrowed a few cold chisels from work.

Going to give this a try tonight (crossing my fingers)

Matt

The cold chisel method, if done properly, has worked 100% of the time for me... And I do it often

Eric sells some terrific 5mm caps for the inner adjusters, they are deeper and work great...

Success! Thanks guys!

Scarlett is on the ground!