Anybody have some advice for pulling off the driver's side half shaft. I got the pass side off the transmission, but the driver's side wont budge.

Hit the actual CV joint with a hammer. It will "pinch" itself off the pins and squeeze off.

You cant hurt it.

I hope you bought some CV gaskets and grease... nasty job.

Oh.. hit it on the sides of the CV.

B

hit it right here:

B

Thanks for the advice!!! I'll give it a shot.

This is Ralph's car I'm taking apart. I'm hoping to have some parts ready for the swap if I can make it.

Thanks again!!

I may want the engine (if I can come up with some cash)

B

The CV will not budge. I noticed theres no gasket on either side. Usually I can move the half shaft back and forth (from the wheel side to the tranny side), but its locked. Is there another way in? How tough would it be to saw???

With the engine, I can deal. Cash or cash not. You're good for it. Let me know.

Try a big cold chisel. Hit the thing where the dowel is hiding, not where the bolts go thru. Angle the chisel away from the trans. Once or twice on eacn side rotating back and forth. Try to keep the chisel in the same place and make a little divot.

I can't get this piece of crap off!!!!!

What will cut through it????

GOT IT!!!!!!!!

Just turned the tire 180 degrees and hit it once with the hammer.

This is why I make a living doing something else.

Thanks!!!!

As long as we're on the subject, does anyone have any secret tips for getting the outer cv's off without f&%#$ng up the hub bearing? You can't really get in there to hit it at all.

bump...

I need this tip as well...

brant

This is scary...but this is how I do it: << joke

Remove the whole thing. It doesnt F-up the bearing. Remove the stub axle nut and flip the nut over and tap on it. The stub axle/axle will come out. Then you can put the stub axle into a vise and get the CV bolts out. Then tap on it from the sides. I should have told Rob above to rotate/hit/rotate/hit.


B

yepp, i learned about the easy way the hard way.
no fun ...

Andy

That's the way I've done the last 2 sets as well. But I don't want to ruin the bearing this time and have to re-do the whole entire thing. The last 4 stub axles I pulled wouldn't come out while "tapping" on them either. It took serious BFH work to get it done. I don't see how that wouldn't ruin the bearing. Can you elaborate Brad?

The bearings are press fit with the hub into one side of the wheel bearing. Your removing one side of the compression. The bearing will feel like toast if you role the car around without the stub axle. Put the stub axle back in and tighten the nut a "little" so you can role the car around and NOT ruin the bearings. They always feel loose when the stub axle is out.

When you go back together... put anti-seize on them so you can get it apart later if need be.

I know the stubs can be difficult...but I have not ruined a bearing getting them out.

B

I too thought that driving out the stub would ruin the bearing by applying force to the wrong surface........

now I'm confused...

Is there any other tricks out there..

maybe I'll give it a try.

brant

The stub is not a press fit into the bearing. It just holds one side of the bearing. The drive flange goes all the way into the bearing. The stub axle is what holds everything together in compression.

B