GWN7
Jun 15 2004, 08:20 PM
A buddy was over today and noticed my broken hood holders in the trunk. He said he could make new ones. Both the plastic and rubber parts.
Would there be any interest in these?
Trekkor
Jun 15 2004, 08:24 PM
I need the rubber ones.
boxstr
Jun 15 2004, 08:28 PM
You bet.
CCLINCAMP
STL914
Jun 15 2004, 08:32 PM
The rear rubber ones, but the price needs to be less than $13.99 (Tweeks).
SirAndy
Jun 15 2004, 09:08 PM
both, the front plastic ones tend to break too after 30 years ...
Andy
aircooledboy
Jun 15 2004, 09:16 PM
Rubber, Rubber, Rubber!!!!!!
But less than Tweeks please.
Neal
Jun 15 2004, 09:16 PM
I am in for the rubber ones
Neal
rezron
Jun 15 2004, 09:19 PM
Rubber ones for me also!!!
rezron
Joe Bob
Jun 15 2004, 09:21 PM
Rubber is gud....put me down....especially if they last longer and are better priced.....
GaroldShaffer
Jun 15 2004, 09:22 PM
Rubber ones for me also please
Mueller
Jun 15 2004, 09:27 PM
you cheap ba$tards
knowing that these are availble new for under $20 bucks, I couldn't see anyone wanting to make these, or at least not if he wants to make a slight profit..........someone has to pay for the reverse engineering and the molds.
GWN7
Jun 15 2004, 10:01 PM
Well I didn't know they were available.....
Thought I remembered a thread saying they weren't avaiable.....
And I am cheap
neo914-6
Jun 15 2004, 10:12 PM
QUOTE
I couldn't see anyone wanting to make these
True for same old weak designs, but how about improving them? The front machined in aluminum and the rears in a newer stronger polymer so they don't crack! AND keep it under $20, yeah right.
GWN7
Jun 15 2004, 10:20 PM
Wouldn't the fronts have to be out of a soft enough material so it didn't mark up the hood?
Joe Bob
Jun 15 2004, 10:28 PM
Key word....LAST LONGER.....
neo914-6
Jun 15 2004, 10:36 PM
QUOTE
mark up the hood
Well they can generously radiused and then plastic coated. Patent 298377455004
Felix
scruz914
Jun 15 2004, 10:47 PM
I'm game, but I need the fronts. My back rubbers are good but I'll take a kit if that is what is offered. I like the idea of machined alum rubber coated fronts. It is all too easy to lift the top and crack them. I like the plastic coated idea. I am assuming here that hood means top. Or do I have this really screwed up?
-Jeff
McMark
Jun 15 2004, 11:28 PM
Long life... :finger2:
20 years+ ain't good enough for ya? And you're squealing about $20 each.
Not pickng on anybody. Just everybody.
GWN7
Jun 15 2004, 11:48 PM
Hood = top = roof
I think he was thinking about making them in plastic and rubber. When I see him I'll ask about strengthing the material in the area that they break.
On mine it was the top part of the plastic piece that broke (PO), same on the rubber part.
All plastics get brittle when exposed to ozone (think I read that somewhere)...
neo914-6
Jun 16 2004, 12:04 AM
QUOTE
All plastics get brittle when exposed to ozone
More likely UV light
QUOTE
20 years+ ain't good enough for ya?
That's 30 year old material and technology....Why not make them Stronger, Faster, Better...
Do you use 20 year old paint?
Besides, if someone invested in the program and material, these can be cranked out on an CNC to get the price down to $20 ea.
thesey914
Jun 16 2004, 03:13 AM
I want some please
JWest
Jun 16 2004, 06:07 AM
I can't see the point in making the rears if they are made from the same material, and I doubt you could beat the current price anyway, but if you could make them from more flexible (silicone?) rubber then I would like some.
I am always afraid the rubber is going to snap off because they are so inflexible (even when new).
To me, the fronts seem fine in stock form as long as they are not 20 years old brittle. They can flex quite a bit without breaking when they are relatively new.
davep
Jun 16 2004, 11:39 AM
The front clips appear to be nylon. If so, soak them in hot water every once in a while. The nylon is hydroscopic and will absorb some water. Water actually makes them stronger.
We make nylon ice scraper blades. Dry the nylon very well before molding, then soak in water for a day after molding. What fun.
mike_the_man
Jun 16 2004, 01:24 PM
I'd be up for some. Those pieces are lower on my list of things I need, but if the price is right...
(Of course I'm a cheap bastard)
Dave Bell
Jun 16 2004, 02:13 PM
Did someone say cheap?... count me in for a set or two.
- Dave
tat2dphreak
Jun 16 2004, 02:42 PM
I'll take a set of the rubber ones if they are softer and/or cheaper
Jenny
Jun 16 2004, 02:49 PM
Interested. Three of four are broken or missing.
Jen
thesey914
Jun 16 2004, 03:32 PM
We should all expect to pay more if the product is superior
GWN7
Jun 17 2004, 07:59 PM
I'll have samples on Monday.... they are being made of a softer material than the front pieces and harder than the rear.
It has a 300 lbs per liner inch tear strenght and will take a 600% elongation before breaking.
Looks good so far. I had a chance to play with the material they will be made of today.
I'll have one of each (one front and one of each rear, left & right) to play with.
Will post Andyesque pictures when I get them..
Joe Bob
Jun 17 2004, 08:13 PM
Need a Beta Tester????
Wyld Thang needs a set....
GWN7
Jun 17 2004, 08:33 PM
PM me your address....
dakotaewing
Jun 17 2004, 10:27 PM
The Bullett is going to some.....
I'm in for at least one set of each...2 if they are cheap enough....
Thom
redshift
Jun 17 2004, 10:28 PM
I need 10,000 sets, pronto!
Email them?
M
Levi
Jun 18 2004, 12:12 AM
I'm in...
markb
Jun 18 2004, 12:50 AM
Add me to the list, please.
ablose58
Jun 18 2004, 04:20 AM
I'm in for a set of rears
AL
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:24 PM
Got the samples back today....they look and feel good....
Specs:
Elongation at break....550%
Tensile Strength........2000 psi
Tear strength..............300pli
Shore A Hardness.........90
(the original rear ones have a Shore A Hardness rating of 80)
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:25 PM
andyesque pic two....
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:26 PM
three...
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:26 PM
four....
SirAndy
Jun 23 2004, 06:34 PM
schweet!
how much for a set (front & rear) ???
Andy
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:40 PM
The rears don't have the metal bushing insert, nor are they marked "L" or "R"
The metal bushing could be put in before they are formed, but I can't see a need for it.
The front one is softer than the original, but should hold well and won't mark the top when it's in place.
Both front and rears can be made in the following colours:
Brown
Red
Orange
Yellow
Green
Blue
Violet
Black
The ones shown are in Blue (but they look black to me)
The samples will be sent to the beta tester Monday (USPS).
Cost.....he's not sure, but around $7 per (for Club Members)
Jeroen
Jun 23 2004, 06:42 PM
Looks promissing!!!
Let us know when you know the prices
cheers,
Jeroen
GWN7
Jun 23 2004, 06:53 PM
Edit Note * the white pieces shown in the pictures are the original type. The new rears are shown with the originals beside them also.
Gint
Jun 23 2004, 07:16 PM
Nice Bruce.
Sign me up for a set, front and rear.
Thanks
JWest
Jun 23 2004, 08:03 PM
Looks interesting - I'll go for a set.
thesey914
Jun 24 2004, 02:23 AM
me too
mike_the_man
Jun 24 2004, 06:54 AM
Is that $7 canadian, or $7 american? It don't matter, I'm in for a set!
maf914
Jun 24 2004, 07:26 AM
Bruce,
Bring 'em on! I'm in for a set or two. The currently available rubber rear hold downs are not worth a crap. I've had three break in the last few years, after the originals lasted for years.
By the way, what is the preferred way of mounting the front clips? Rivets (per the original) or nuts and bolts? I have a boken one with a pair of new white nylon on standby.
tat2dphreak
Jun 24 2004, 08:28 AM
kick ass!! I'm in!
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