I finally got around to starting up the engine last nite. It's a GC case, 2.0 with Rabys FI cam and 911 rocker set up. The P&C's were OK according to Rimco so they just honed the cylinders. I put in a new set of Grant (USA) rings. The heads were rebuilt. New OEM std/std mains (a $200 screwing from our much beloved "King" himself, [I ain't missing him so far]), a rebuilt MPS (thx Geoff/ aka Bleyseng) and a new set of injectors. I used the set of points and condensor that came with the car because I will change out to Petronix once the bugs are out. The plug wires are OK but will be changed out, also.
I was surprised that it caught and fired so quickly but wasn't so happy with the knocking sound. It didn't sound like a rod knocking, though). It also was running on 3 cylinders. I shut it down and pulled the plugs. #2 plug wire was not seating so that was a no brainer. The others looked ok. There were no oil leaks, yet. Oil pressure upon start up was 45psi and FP was 27-29psi. When restarted it was much smoother but still knocking. I crawled beneath but couldn't hear it. I crawled in the cabin and noticed that the noise changed and quited as I pushed on the shifter . I'll pull the tranny later this week, start it and see if it is quite. Foolish confidence told me that it wasn't a rod knocking so I completed the break in run on the cam. The noise has almost gone away since the break in run. I noticed that the air cleaned had held the cooling flaps in the cold or closed position for the first 10 min's of run time which I think contributed to the drop in oil pressure. It had dropped to 20 psi by now. BTW, it is the std T4 oil pump. More to come later. Comments and input/opinions greatly appreciated.

Sure its not a exhaust leak?

I had an exhaust leak that sounded just like an engine knock. Check it out. Ray

Did you cut down the 911 adujster screws? If the sound went away they may have pounded out the valve covers. to clearance themselves. I would pop off the covers and see if you notice any marks. When I did mine I had to cut off about .150 off off of the screws so they wouldn't contact the covers. Each engine is different so that may not be the issue but it's an easy fix.

ust noticed you mentioned that when you pushed on the shifter the noise went away. Double check your shifter adjustment. If it's out of adjustment the neutral position may be just nicking a gear. Not good at all for your tranny!

-Rob

Timed and reset the valves today. It had a brief knock again but went away after 2-3 seconds. I still think I'll discover the cause of the knock when I drop the tranny. If I'd known how good it sounded directly behind the tailpipe I would have spent more time there. It's around 1:14
http://youtu.be/UoRp9bAG1io

Check your shift linkage and all engine tin, heater valves, etc., for the "knock". The engine shakes just enough to have parts sometimes hitting other parts to produce a knocking sound.

Quit sniffing the tailpipe ....

"Quit sniffing the tailpipe ...."

Actually that is one of my favorite ways to do a quick check on any VW engine.
A trained nose can tell quickly if it is too rich or lean ;-)

Also, 76-914 I hope you are not running the engine for very long with the battery charger still hooked up and plugged in.
That is a good way to kill your voltage regulator.

Stu

I caught that one after reading your reply. That was one of them, but it was so small it left no mark on the outside. That valve (#4ex) was way too loose and when tightened properly would not have touched at all. Explained alot with the weird frequency and diminishing sound. Good call.


Thx for that tip. IDKT, but those leads are from the timing light and dwell/tach multimenter.

This afternoon I connected the tranny output flanges to the shafts and started her up. Sabes que? No more knocking. I remembered one of the ziplock baggies I had slipped over the CV was in bad shape when I removed it. Then it came to me. The shaft had been laying on/next to the output flange which was turning when the engine ran. That's my take on it anyway. I popped 6000 rpm a few times and it was smoother than greased owl shit. I take her down and slowly slip it into 1st gear. No grinding, Whew! I live at the end of a cul de sac so I drove the circle ( maybe 100') and back into the drive. Another quick preflight; wheels/tires ok, no oil leaking, oil pressure 75ps. Check. Out the drive and to the end of our street then a uturn and back to the drive. Another quick preflight and out again. I'm used to my 88hp (when new and it ain't) and I don't know what this thing is putting out, but.............damn; what a difference. I think the '73 is also lighter than the '76 so that may contribute. Any conservative guesses as to what kind of HP I have? 2.0/ flat top KS/Raby's FI cam (9550? I forget) and the 911 valve train kit, 8.2:1. I was happier than a two petered puppy with the tranny. Thanks Dr. Evil, that's a good video. I think I need to adjust the shifter. Someone monkey'd with it. Now I just need to decide which 914 I will let go of. Special thanks thx to Ron (Slits) and Sean (sean v8 914) for the tips,tricks and misc parts when I needed them, to Geoff for the MPS tune/adj, Mike (DrEvil) for his video and the Jakester for the "Bug me Video" on how to do a T4. More questions tomorrow. Thx guys. PS The aircleaner in the video is unfinished. It will be black on the bottom half and red on the top half with a "Narp" decal on top.

110 - 115

Now, what do I win?