fuel injection harness, others may chime in here, it seems different from mine, especially since the MPS connector seems to be on the wrong end of things ?!?

I'll suggest a couple of revisions to the chassis wiring harness removal/installation thread to make things easier.

It is easiest and best to take apart or remove a couple of the larger connector housings to ease the process and avoid damage to either the car, the wires, wire terminals or the connector housings, especially at the chassis holes where the harness passes through. Reinstallation is a 'snap'.

1. Don’t cut anything, there is never a need to cut wiring just for removal or reinstallation Connectors with housings easily disassemble. Make a diagram for where specific wires go in the housing before disassembling connector housings, for later use during reassembly. See diagram below to access the wire terminal release tangs.
2. Remove the plastic housings from the headlight branches.
3. Remove the cover and base from the 14-pin connector housing.
4. Remove the single pole box cover at the oil temp wire near the battery on the 1973-76 cars.
5. Avoid putting stress or severely bending any wire terminal or portion of the harness. Avoid nicking or chafing the wire insulation or casing by liberal use of a lubricant. Applying a lubricant like glycerine really helps pass it through the tight spots and can avoid damage. Glycerine is non-oily and wipes off easily, find it inexpensively at your local pharmacy and use it regularly on your other rubber trim parts to keep them fresh and prevent them from drying out.
6. The rubber double grommet conduit (‘snorkel’) is hard to deal with. Assuming it is on the harness already, leave it on the harness, do not slice it (unless is badly deteriorated). There are no new replacements at this time for this grommet. Lube this up to save it if at all possible.

one more:

I'm a bid confused, is the red line on the pic showing the routing of the early or the late car?

The car shown is an early car ...

one more:

Still not sure how to tie-up/mount the bundle of wires near the fuse panel.

Do you coil up the extra harness near the fuse panel?

There should be no "extra" if it is routed correctly ...

Back to the floor position. LOL I have a lot.

a few tips about installation:

the whole harness must be installed from inside the cabin!
everything that goes to the back of the car, rear trunk, engine comp, center tunnel has to be fiddled in from the FRONT of the center tunnel backwards!
meaning, the taillight wires first, then string the whole back end through.

NOTE: in the front part of the center tunnel, the harness routing is *different* for early/late cars!
don't miss that first hoop or you won't be able to fit the mount for the floor board!

it's a lot easier to fiddle the big connectors through tight holes FIRST, even if they're not the first thing in the harness, if you feed the smaller wires first, the bigger connectors won't fit anymore.
this will take some practice

yes, all the engine and rear trunk stuff fits through the rear firewall hole, even the big rubber boot!
trust me, you can do it!
btw. it *REALLY* helps having a second person sitting in the engine comp while you feed the stuff through!

once the rear is in place, feed the front part through the front firewall (left from the steering wheel).
same here, feed bigger connectors first!

Andy

wow...thanks so much! that is going to be so helpful

yeah, i have the haynes manual...but im not very good at reading the wiring diagrams...what is nice is that there is already a bet up wiring harness in the car...so i have that for some reference..but what i want to do is put lables on the parts of the wiring to make it easier for me, i cant thank you guys enough for your help!