Trying to remove the rear hub. The CV/Axle is already removed. That was cake in comparison.
Have some pipe that is roughly the same OD and hammering the hell out of it got the hub to push out a couple of mm but now it won't budge. Hate the idea of spending $80 on a slide hammer.
Any other tricks to get this bugger out? This is the driver's side. SO not looking forward to going through this process again on the other side of the car.

A good torch (Home Depot/Lowes - $29.95) is your friend.

Don't forget the PB Blaster or similar. Let it sit after application of both, for a little bit at least.

Don't give up, metal is FUN

After I pounded on the rear swing arm a bit and thought about all that vibration going through the car, I decided to take it off and work on it on the bench. Much easier.

Only part that sucks is to break the brake line open and alignment which isn't that hard.

I use a 2 lb sledge hammer and pipe. I've never had one stuck that wouldn't pound out.

See if you can remove the 4 bearing retainer plate fasteners and then pound it out. The bearing will probably separate and the inner race will still be on the hub. You can then hammer the outer race out with a drift. Clamp the hub in a vise and with a cold steel chisel and heat, you can get the inner race off the hub.

Me too. I made this puller from the parts in the photo. Works like a champ and no damaging shock to the suspension or the pick-up points. Not mention it's quick too. Click to view attachment

As you know from my other post, I'm in the middle of this also. My son showed me the slide hammer trick using a sledge hammer and length of chain. It worked but really shook the hell out of the trailing arm & whole car. Ham's method shown above is far preferable....

Tried that, but can't get a wrench on 2 of the bolts.

I really don't want to take the arm off. I'll try PB blaster and a few more whacks before going that route. What a PITA.

I like it. Wish I had kept my old rotors...

HEAT, apply it liberally with a torch after the PB sits for 45 minutes or so. Then again after it cools below 120 degrees or so, with the PB and tools mentioned by many above.

Never be too proud to seek out the local wheel and tire vendor for their tools. Pep Boys has presses as well and they are cheap-er than some other shops. Go ahead and have them remove that pain in the ASS nut for the shock as well and clean and prep/paint your Trailing Arm while yer at it.

Sorry, OCD took control again

OK, Len, how does it work? It's not obvious to me.

You need a heavier hammer. Mine was a pain until I used a solid mini sledge and the free rental bearing driver set from auto zone.

Ohh and I used a screw driver to pull out half the bearing.

Matt

I also used a puller. But it was a stock 3-prong cheap one, I don't know why
you would need to make your own.

It works only if the axle is still attached. Try to have the axle level when doing
the pulling.