Looks like the engine comes with the flywheel and I have a lead on the headers and tank.

I need:

Muffler
Fan/Housing/Alternator
Engine Shroud
Oil cooler air duct

Joe, you probably know this already... but the Pelican 911 classifieds are a damn gold mine for parts.

I have some 6 engine shroud that was fabricated for the same race car that the oil tank was for if you want some "ugly stuff"!

Free!

I have an extra MS2 ECU if you want it. I ran it on my V8 for a while. Perfect working order but no harness. $85 shipped

Sold! PM sent.

Muffler ... yes

Fan/housing/alternator ... maybe, doesn't belong to me and would have to see how much he wants for it. Off a 3.0 if it makes any difference to you.

Why can't you use a shroud with integral duct or do you just want the duct itself?

I just found a fan housing, so alternator and fan are still needed.

May I see a picture of the muffler?

Shroud too?

If you're using the 911 oil cooler you'll need to mod the fitting that otherwise won't clear the trailing arm...

Muffler today ...

What's the OE on the fan housing or diameter?

Shroud tomorrow ....

Images ....... It's a Bischoff.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I think that muffler will work. Where's that thread where AAron converted one of those to twin center outlet? I think I'll do that.

The fan housing I have has the same part number as Wills' 3.2, but the alternator flange is the shallow one, like for an externally regulated alternator.

I'm aware of that. I'll modify it.


You do know that this isn't my first /6 conversion.....

Yes.
But for a lot of people reading along, it might be _their_ first /6 conversion...

Fair enough. I have a different way of converting a cooler that involves completely removing the original supply tube and clearancing the bottom of the cooler between the two lower mounting holes.

I then take steel JIC fitting with -16 male on one side and NPT on the other. Put that in the lathe, turn down the NPT side to accept the supply seal on the engine. Fab a bracket that also bolts to the two bottom oil cooler bolts and weld it to the new fitting.

I'm thinking about making a small run of them and selling them to people doing conversions.

I'll take pictures. I found pics from the TurtleGirl build.

That's a great idea! Let me know how much $. Thanks for doing this thread!

joe
let me know if you do make a run of these
I'll take one!

brant

I would probably be in for one once you come up with pricing. I have a good core. thanks, Mark

The good thing about doing it this way is that you don't have to send me the cooler. The mod to the cooler can be done by the customer because it's not super precise work.

I'll have to make some before I have a price. It would come as an adapter fitting and two longer studs to replace the shorter stock ones in the engine case.

Does this change the length of the hose required to connect to the cooler?

Yes. It assumes you are making custom hoses. If you're already converted, you would have to remake the supply line.

Factory hoses wouldn't work.

engine if you are still looking.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...-2l-engine.html

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure I have one on the way.

Probably not for me then.

I'm down for the oil cooler mod too!

p.s. love the thread!

I was giving this a lot of thought yesterday. I seem to remember that Liz's had a clearance issue between the hose fitting and the bottom of the cooler. I had to tighten the hose on the engine fitting and then install the two pieces on the engine.


So, I'm going to make the mod fitting to accept the hose directly via crimp at a hydraulic shop. I'll either deliver the fitting for you to add hose and crimp or deliver the fitting with a pig tail hose already crimped.

To drain the oil, simply remove the two nuts holding the fitting to the block.

I'm going to need CAD services so I can have the flange laser cut. Anyone?

What have we here?



These might have a bad rep, but I have one that's been holding the 3.6 in the RS firmly in place for six years now.


No longer a freebie. I paid $90 delivered.

Bonus!

The MS-II I purchased for $85 has a 3.0 board:

How does that work? Welded to the original bar?

Rich

Yeah, how does that mount work? That's one of the parts I have yet to buy for my conversion...

It bolts to the engine and bolts to the car in place of the /4 mount.

joe - between us : )

what HP are you shooting for with this $5k project? 200+-

vs a raby 2056 for $5k producing 130-140HP +-

jim

Does that $5k Raby engine include Carbs/FI or is it just a long-block?


Anyway, I'm shooting for 140hp to start. The $5k build budget will include digital FI and distributorless ignition.


A little down the road, I'm going to open up the engine and swap in some S pistons, Nikasil cylinders and S cams. It'll end up around 190hp.

good point - though the average 6 conversion using all STORE BOUGHT bits would probably cost $5k (tin/exhaust/oiltank/throttlelinkage/etc/etc) excluding engine and labor?

the 2056 - does not come with ignition or exhaust or engine core or a bunch of other bits. 125 HP without tangerine exhaust.

so i guess $5000 + type4 core + mallory dist + exhaust + carbs = $7000 +-

so i guess the question is - does one want to spend 50% more to do a six conversion - not on the cheap.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=42456

last question - can carbed 6 get thru emissions relatively easily? in my state all 914 must go thru emissions - thus i will stick with low cost V8 or possibly suby conversions. that said, who would not want a high reving six ; ))

Cool to know that engine mout can handle you 3.6...makes me think it'd work on my 2.7 (hmmmm)
Also I'm interested in what you have planned for the EFI and distributor-less ignition. I didn't even think those were possible on a budget.

Wish there was a builder like you closer to me...

I don't think the 5K engine is still 5K. I'm just guessing...I could be wrong.

I think all these projects need a flexible budget. At least that's my excuse for getting in over my head on mine.

The only way to make a 5k budget on a 6 conversion requires one to do all their own labor (for free) AND fabricate most of the bits themselves.

Patience will bring deals, but this patience may take years in order to gather all the required bits for rock bottom prices.

I didn't end up re-doing anything on my conversion, but I do need to pull the engine and re-seal the chain housings, and it could stand to have the heads rebuilt, but I did my 3.2 conversion 5+ years ago.

The only way I was able to keep my budget in the 5k range was that I sold off most all my -4 parts and I also fabricated conversion parts and sold them. I did engine sheet metal, shift rods, block off plates, engine mounts, etc.

I'm doing mine for $5K. I bartered the rest from Eric Shea for an NOS ash tray.

It's been a while, but the 2.2 is finally here. $520 delivered:

Jim, the original 914/6 had carbs. What else could they compare it to?

I bought my original -6 engine for this same dollar amount 4 years ago. I had it rebuilt to 2.2 E-Spec. Still working to get it installed...so many things get in the way...I hope to complete the install by this Christmas! Glad to see you're making progress!!

Wow -6 oil cooler and flywheel. does it have a bosch dizzy too ?

Is that already a 914-6 engine? Looks like the cooler is already set up for a 914 (well it is pointed in the right direction at least).

Sorry for the hijack, but I have not seen any longevity numbers for a big type four. I could not get more than 15k miles out of my 2.4 liter four (103x71). I had it overhauled twice before giving up and going to a six back in 1986. For the cost of rebuilding the four twice I could of had a six in the first place. My stock 3.2 motor has over 150k miles on it. It runs great and does not leak any oil.

Amen.

Not sure what the specs on your motor was, but Jake is claiming 100,000 miles. You aren't getting that for $5,000 though.

A 6-cyl for $520, wow....with the 914 cooler mod already on it? Amazing, I'll post my $ numbers tomorrow when I can see my spreadsheet.

It was a stock 2.0 liter with 103mm cylinders and the stock 71mm 2.0 crankshaft. I was also running 44ida webers on it. I know there are not too many people recommending 103mm cylinders these days. The technology has improved allot since the early 80's. The first 2364? four sucked a valve and the second overhaul broke a ring. Both within 15k miles. Maybe my mechanic at the time didn't know what he was doing. He used to build type 4 sand rail motors. I paid $5200.00 for my 3.2 liter six, 11 years ago. Its actually my second six. The first six was a 2.7 with a top end overhaul. I installed it back in 1986. It had a top end overhaul when I installed it and it lasted about 100k miles before it started pulling head studs. It never left me stranded.
What size motor is Jake claiming 100k on?

Too funny. I thought I was a fan of the 3.2 motor, you have two of them.

Please add me to this list too.
Thanks

It does have a Bosch distributor that will be for sale because I'm doing Megasquirt and distributorless ignition.

I started a leak-down test on the engine the other day. Yeah right. Wishful thinking.


#1. 50/100
#6. 0
#2. 0............


Returned the test tools to the box and got a flashlight to have a look in the intakes at the valves. MMMMMmmm rusty.

At minimum, the heads will need guides and facing, at least a few valves (maybe all of them), hone cylinders, rering, etc.



I'm VERY bad at doing the minimum to get it going. I've already looked at JE pistons and other $$$$$$ parts.

If there's good news, it's that this is a T engine. That means that is has a non-counterweighted crankshaft. That means there's no point in going crazy on the top end when the bottom end won't support the revs.

If I can get away with leaving the bottom end together, I will probably be able to hold myself back. If not, the budget is going to get scrapped as I turn it into a 2.4S.


Let me think about it.