What do you think about these? These were "created" from narrower Fuchs.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-911...es#ht_500wt_956

I think I would love to have them but not at that price.

They look hand welded. Regardless the welds do look very good. If he dropped the price by $600 I'd be tempted.

Just saw a set welded at Al reed's shop, good welds but they had leaks. If I got the set I would treat them like a two piece wheel and silicone over the welds.

I had a set of Centerline wheels on my 64 El Camino and had to remove and reseal them for leak issues.

For a teener? Depends on the offset. I found that an inside 9 needs a spacer and an outside 9 needs some metal work on the flare.

Harvey Weidman made me some 16X8.5's and they were right at that price but they were for the 8.5 and a pair of 7's for the front. If Harvey would only make me 8.5's you can bet there is a fit problem with 9's...

If done correctly there is nothing wrong with a weld up. Gary Stratton in your neck of the woods ( Orlando ) has been making them for a long time. I would think a set of wheels from Gary would be a little cheaper and a quality product.

Shopping for Nelson's car.

If the welds weren't perfectly even would that make it difficult to balance them?

Hey Andy, I would run like hell away from any wheels that were welded that leak air. That means the will likely crack where the pin holes are.

I have no problem with welded wheels Joe. As long as they are done by a guy that has welded several sets. Which means the welds should look like the guy knew what he was doing.

I'm running 16" X 9" fakes on the rear of the Alien.

Since I had the rear aligned I have removed the spacers. I'm running 255/50/16's

I purchased mine from Performance Produces. I think the set was 1200.00 for 16X8 and 16X 9" New. I just went to their site but didn't see any listed.

i've got them on my rears. And they hold air.

I was checking on a set I have at Al's and heard the story about the welded wheels, they belong to someone else and just an FYI for Joe on potenial leak issue's

Stratton doesn't do weld-ups. his become 3-piece wheels, I just checked with him last week & they were $1800 a pair with donor 16x6s to make 17"s

Joe, at that price you can buy New "Real Factory" 16x9s

That's interesting because a few years ago at one of the Porsche events Gary was there with welded wheels. I remember because at the time I was looking for some. He said he heated the center and the wheel in an oven and then welded them while still warm. Maybe he's gone to 3 piece because it's easier ?

A shop in bellvue washington had a bunch of these new , Now they say last set of 4 16x7/16x8 for $850.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/2532058006.html


The ebay wheels will need about 1 inch pull on the flairs, they appear to be made from 16x7 that have a 112 backspacing. Factory Fuchs 16x9's have a 130mm backspacing.
Actually factory Fuchs 16x8's look the best to me.

Gary also does welded rims, uses what is cut off (might be why Weidman built the 8.5) and I know 9X16s fit GT flares, have a set on mine..

Here is a set Gary had for sale (may still be)

Joe here is the Porsche Part # - they are still Available New

911 362 119 00

This will get ya thinking..
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I'm not paying what they cost new.

Granted, my Dealers cost is $995 a wheel, but I'd rather have a Real Forged Wheel than I welded up used wheel

There was a guy on Pelican that had a huge stash of New 9x16s that he was selling for $1400-1500 a pair

I would buy a pair for $1500 today, like right now.

I have a set of black center 16x7 and 16x9 with big rubber, a bit hard but good for burn outs, went to Fiske's on my 84 turbo, 2100 to Colorado RRC
here is comparison;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...f-86-turbo.html
they are in deep storage but, guaranteed as good or better than the ones in the add in pelican.

my two cents
If this is for a street car, what is the widest "decent" street tire you can get for a 16...
just a thought...

And it's a good point. I've been a bit concerned with the results of my searches for street tires on 16s. I took a cue from Rick Ollah and searched for the 255/50-16 size - found just one street tire at t-rack, and "sigma mirada" which I'd never heard of at another site. Mostly the g-force comes up, but it's the only one I can find. Lots of drag/comp tires though.

I think 255 is as wide as one can go without rolling the flares out, right? Maybe there's a way to put on monster 265s. Then again, I'm not adverse to going smaller with 245/45-16 either, but then those are even harder to find than the 255/50s (though I did find some Toyos). 265 in the rear seems like it might throw things off a bit, and it's wider than Porsche used on their 16x9s I believe.

Food for thought, for sure.

The factory used to run 285/40 on the 9" wheels on some of the GTs ...

Race cars. But thanks for the clarification. That's a pretty big tire!

Nelson, you should give this offer serious consideration.

Tires:

Well I'll be ... there's a shitload of tires out there for 245/50R16. Guess I was mismatching width/profile.

And I am considering Jeff's offer. PM sent to him, cc'd you.

2007 Production?

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Not for nothing, but why run 245's on 9" wide rims? BFG suggests 245/50R16 on 16x8 rims so that's what I used (and saved $$$$ going with 16x8). I've got about a finger width between the tire and trimmed flare.

Had lunch with a buddy who is a rep for Conti, he told me that the sizes we need are still aviable. BTW, a 245 is too wide for a 8X16, way too much side wall roll and there isn't much difference between 8&9s. If you are worried about cost & tires, order a set of 17" Rota Fuchs. Joe, I'll check on a pair of 9X16s at my powder coater.

Tires are driving me nuts. I had a nice set of 4 15X8's I couldn't find a matching set of tires I liked so I bought the 16X9's and 16X8's. Now tires have dried up again.

I had a really fat set of Yokohama's I loved. That's what I have mounted in the photo above. I burned up a set with my radical alignment. I went to replace the rears and couldn't find the tires. Poof! they were discontinued. I ended up replacing all 4 tires and the fronts were like new. I have Dunlaps now and although they are the same 255/50/16 size they are not as fat.

Tire companies suck

With all due respect, the tire manufacturers disagree:

Goodyear
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BFGoodrich
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Yokohama
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IMHO, 245 is a perfect fit for a 8" rim ...

Switch to 17's or 18's. Wont have that problem

Hell I run both

The rear tires on my car ran me under 400 shipped and mounted. Fronts would be ~ 300 shipped and mounted.

I have a pair of Conti Extreme contacts 245/50/16 on Phone 8's they fit fine for a street tire driving within the limits of the tire on the road safely, they handle off ramps well enough to pull enough G's to be exciting, but they certainly don't fit as well as 245/45/16s on welded Fuch 9's.

The fact Porsche is selling 8&9X15s again means it can't be too long before 15" tires are back..

Gary's Fuchs have been sold.

http://www.automotion.com/euromeister-allo...or-porsche.html

I am running 9x16's all the way around on my car. I bought the above wheels - Euromeister knock-offs. $249 each, and they are nice. I am running 245 50 Kumho ecsta tires. This is a street car and I did the whole set of shoes for less than what one decent looking factory 9x16 would have cost me. What is the appeal of having a factory wheel on there. I mean at that price point it is just insane....

If I didn't have any wheels, I would be going for a set of 17" Rota Fuchs, $1,200 for a set of 7&9s and there are more tire choices. But then again, there are some people who are hard headed (like me, just check my blog & look at the parts for my GT clone ) and inist on having OEM parts..
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You know, I'm kinda the same way. In the past, I've been vocal about my complaints about how 'boring' or 'typical' Fuchs are, but then once I really decided upon them, I don't want knock offs very much.

Call me a purist, call me what you will. My thinking was that if they're going on my car, and I'm really trying for the whole enchilada, then ... well hell, while replicas look the shit, I just can't abide them.

Something about OEM forged wheels. They are typically lighter than most imitations out there, from my limited research. 'course I plan to commit a mild sacrilege and paint the centers something other than black ...

Thats kinda what I thought - Purist Thing.

I had a set of oems all lined up to buy, we have an account with automotion, so I had dave send me one wheel to check out. They looked same/same, so I spent the extra money on spherical mounts. I mean cmon 9x16's are just getting ridiculously expensive. Pure as the driven snow here, but sense = cents...

As far as weight goes, if I cared one wit about that fuchs would not even be in the equation.

I think there is an error in thinking here.....Rim size and the proper tire vary depending on the series.....For instance you have been discussing a 245/50 series tire which in my opinion is too large. If you drop to the more appropriate 245/45 tire than the rim size should indeed be a 9" wheel

If you want "crisp handling" then use the widest recommended wheel.

In this case the widest for 245/45/16 would be a 9 inch wheel.....

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I can't really argue with you on any one point of that. I guess I'm just gonna be bone-headed and start out with real fuchs and go from there. I might be getting by tire companies (I'm rather entertained by how many posts include tires that I don't particularly want and/or are track/slicks), but that's just something I want to deal with and learn from I guess. To each their own!

EDIT: Jeez, coming after the last post it looks like I'm specifically knocking you, Paul. Not my intention, sorry. Teach me to read all posts before replying. Anyway, I was trying to say that if the best tire size is as wide as you can go for what the rim will accept, there's very few (besides the Fuzion that you quoted) that are available in that size. Note the high price and the "closeout" marking as well as "less than two" available. It's a concern with that size, so I'm looking more towards a slightly taller profile series (being the 245/50). Guess I'll just try 'em and learn.

One thing that a lot of people don't realize is that welding aluminum can screw up the strength of the base material. Other than forging, not sure of the exact process used to form the wheels. Two ways to strengthen aluminum. One is forging which "work hardens" the aluminum, and the second is heat treat of the material to a T4 or T6. When you weld, the weld pool is moved back to T0 which is annealed dead soft. If the surrounding material is heat treated to T4, welding can move it back to T0. If the material is forged, the weld pool isn't. Adding the T4 or T6 heat treat after welding may strengthen the material -if the filler weld rod is capable of precipitation hardening.

What does this mean? T4 Heat treating 6061 moves base T0 from 18000 yield to 30,000 yield. T6 on 6060 alloy moves the yield to 42000.

Bottom line? Welded areas on aluminum wheels are weaker than the original forged and/or heat treated aluminum wheels. Are they strong enough? Don't know. Wrong process can result in big material change. Caveat emptor. Let us know how they work out.

Ken

Off my 84 930 ten years ago, when I went to Fiske's , The car was sold and totalled by the new owner.

Available

Those are 7&9x16?

How much?

Yes, and Nelson and I made a deal, they will be at RRC.

We have a deal for those beauties! [EDIT: simul-post with above] Will bring the $ to RRC, thanks Jeff.