Hey, I disassembled it 10 years ago and am just now starting to work on it. I can't remember what was attached to the circled items. I was wondering if I need any of them for my SBC V8 conversion. Can any of these brackets/bolts/tubes be re-purposed for a V8? Taking it to anything I don't need.

not that i would know but, i can't see any circled items in the pic you posted...

i too am planning a sbc conversion but, haven't yet begun the dis-assembly, still driving it!

ok, the circles didn't show. Try again.

WTF? I pull up the file elsewhere and the black circles show. Weird.

There we go. Sorry to bore everyone with the same pics.

The heater tube can be used for SOMETHING later down the road. I'd just cap it off (I used duct tape..)

The heater cable can be used for a choke or for something similar, I would leave the tube there and pull the cable till you need it.


The rest is obsolete.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Hi Pete,

From what I can see, I'd suggest replacing all the missing sheet metal in the hell hole for structural integrity, but leave the battery mount OFF. The space will allow
work-around room with the Chevy installed. I'd suggest mounting the Batt. in the right corner of the rear trunk for these benefits: balancing weight, short power cable to starter and being away for batt killing heat!

All the rest of the stock bit are needed. I mounted my 2-1/2" sq tube engine crossbar in the standard position after welding strengthening pcs to the stock mounts.

Given how flimsy the inner mounting tabs for the swing arms are, it is advisable
to brace them. My right side tab fractured from the added loading and after repair, I braced them with rod-ends threaded into sections of tubing.

I hope the attached pics will help in visualizing how it all fits.

Best of luck,
Terry

So the bracket on the engine mount and the bracket on the control arm ear as well as the bracket on the wheel well (the other wheel well has the same bracket/screws) I can cut off?

Has anyone run the radiator hoses down the heater tubes rather then under the car?

Hi Terry, yes, I look forward to adding some round tube reinforcements. Right now I'm cutting out everything I don't need to make room for paint stripping, and hell hole rust repair as well as just removing things I don't need so I don't have to clean them LOL.

Your exhaust system is awesome by the way!

Terry, did you rivet your flares on? I decided on Dzus fasteners for easy removal. Went a little crazy on the rear flares. I haven't riveted the fasteners in place yet, I don't think I will paint them.

there is a subie convert by the name of britian if my memory serves me well. He ran hosing down the original hot air transfer tunnels. Looks to be clean yet pain in the ass way of doing it. and good god how much 914 is left after a v8 conversion? that car looks like its a motor with a 914 front end thrown on it.

The brackets on the right and left are for the trunk torsion bars. Your going to run trunk shocks right? (I HIGHLY suggest it...)


And yes you can run your lines through the heater tubes, unfortunately you have to either run the hose inside the cabin (read a hot cabin) or in the fenderwell (read tire clearance).
Brittan did it in his yellow subi conversion on JP's old car. Multiple others have as well. But it DOES create heat in the cabin. My lines under the car have never hit anything and doesnt create heat in the cabin.

Hey Pete,

Now I see the bits you were talking about removing. I have needed NONE of them
except the heater tube through which I ran my Aeroquip fuel line (back from the tank).

Sawzall Away!!

Terry

hey Pete,

There is NOT a direct route from the front trunk to the heater tubes. As I said, I ran my fuel line down the right tube, but first it had to come into the passenger footwell and then to the heater tube.

I ran my water tubes inside the central tunnel! I found that there is room at the front of the tunnel to run tubing UNDER the fuel tank and with a cutting a slotted hole, into the front trunk.

I chose to sweat 1-1/4" copper tubing (no problems in 8 years now), but one could just run Gates green-stripe all the way from the radiator back to the engine via my routing.

Whatever you do, Please don't run the tubes/hoses under the car as they are bound to get snagged! behind the rocker panels is another good option.

I hope this helps,
Terry

Pete,

YES. I used 3/8's pop rivets and then bondo'd in their center holes. Painted over, they look OK. As I want to drive my car on the street & track, I compromised instead of your Full-Racer approach. The Dzus approach certainly make swapping fender an easy process for a committed track car.

All the same, I a tire let go and take off a rear flare 5 months ago and it wasn't too much of a chore replacing it.

Best,
Terry

Hey Ductech,

I'm hoping you think it looks COOL, as I do!

I just HAD to have the 180 degree Schoenfeld headers as it changes the tumpa-bumpa V8 exhaust note into a screaming banshee race engine whine!! The sound is VERY COOL!

Terry

Terry's V8 conversion as one of the more extreme examples. Many V8 914s, like mine, have rear trunks that are complete with roof brackets, carpet and such, just a small 4" x 4" cutout at the middle of the front of the trunk for distributor clearance. The front trunk is the biggest sacrifice, with the radiator up there, ther's no room for a laydown spare. For the outside or the interior, there's no indication that my car has a V8, as long as it's parked. The funny thing is that I still focus on Porsche parts because I want to keep it "original".

A number of people have run the coolant hoses through the heater vents, up to the dash area, and back down to the radiator. Works well, but burping the lines of trapped air is problematic. Some people solved this with small bleed valves at the high points, but it's still a pain. Almost all V8 conversions run Gates (or similar) hose under the car with virtually no problems. My hoses have been good for 15 years. Flexible hose is preferred under the car, hardlines may get crimped or broken going over speed bumps, steep driveways or road debris. The rubber hoses seem to shrug that stuff off.

From L to R, the circled items are:

Heater control cable tube
Tube for heated air to get to the cabin
Bracket for the fuel filter
Bracket for the MPS and Decel Valve
(Not sure, possibly where the rear deck lid torsion bar bracket bolts on)
(Again, may be where the rear deck torsion rod bracket goes)

--DD

Hi ewdysar,

You made a good point about most V8 conversions, well said. Most folks are happy with 300 HP for a very fun daily driver. Of course, if the HP (and companion torque) gets to 400, the 901 trans won't take it without some serious upgrades. Most conversion cars are not lowered much and if you have decent driveways, you can run the hoses under the car.

My car is a tuned-up 383 and even though it is street-legal, I actually only run at Streets of Willow Springs. Yup, the the passenger seat is out of the car!

I believe our friend Pete mentioned setting his car up for track events and thus my
admonition on under-car plumbing. With a bit of lowering and a simple spin off-track could snag the hoses and spoil his day. At least that's how nasty the desert is off of Willow Springs!

As for "burping" the cooling system, if the hoses/tubes are run low ( rocker panels,
threaded inside the car or even under the car), with no rise in the middle, there will be NO problem working the air out AUTOMATICALLY with a HEADER TANK!!!!!! Renegade doesn't understand the "technology," but I learned from Dad's '64 Cobra. In fact, the header tank I'm running is THE one from the Cobra! Take another look at the photos. BTW: The tank must be mounted ABOVE the engine When plumbed correctly, a 3/8" hose from the front of the intake manifold pumps directly into the header tank, while the main water flow from the T-Stat housing goes by the tank, connected by a T-intersection., on its way to the radiator. I've run my set up for 8 years, with about 10 engine pulls and NEVER had a problem with trapped air. The header tank is filled to 1/2 full to leave expansion room for the water.

I hope this will be helpful to some folks,

Terry

Hi Terry,

Eric here (my name is in my sig). Yep, the ones with burping problems that I mentioned are the systems with hoses that run through the heater ducts, up to the dash and then back down into the front trunk. A very noticable high point in both hoses.

My "stock" Renegade system works fine, all I do to burp the system is to add to the plastic overflow tank a couple of times after a full cooling system drain and fill. Each time the motor heats and cools it burps all of the air out by itself and pulls the new coolant back in from the overflow tank. I never even remove the radiator cap after the first fill. The coolant filler neck with the radiator cap on it is mounted above the engine level on the right side of the firewall. I'm not sure that anyone would call it "a HEADER TANK!!!!!!" but it seems to work exactly like you describe. Here's a picture of one.

Here's a picture of my coolant filler neck and the overflow tank.