Not bad lol

Project "Civic Duty"...

OBD 1 is all you need .


http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view.pl

Lots to read on this one. PM me if you want to know more.. Basically for under 150 you can have modify your ecu and have a chip burner to be able to program new chips for your setup.

Its the way to go There are also plenty of basemaps that people have loaded on the forums.

Been doing a lot of house work and family time over the last few weeks, but I managed to finish/ rework the whole tube frame front end, the floor is completely cut out (chipped off all the old coating to find lots of rust), also welded in 4" tube from the front suspension through the rear fire wall......this thing is straying to look more like a race car on a full space frame lol. Hope to get a bunch more done on the chassis this week and weekend between holloween festivities....more pics to follow soon!

Nutcase! (In a good way!)

I also want to see the finished 'Hontang' images - Or is it 'Mustvic' or 'Civtang' ???

Umm, the B16 motors should all be 16V. The D16 ones as well. The only 8V ones I know of in the 88+ Civic/Integra/etc. engines were the D15 ones that went into the CRX HF.

--DD (Who used to be a CRX guy)

Your right, I did some head swapping (used my 16v head on my mom's car), using an older 8v on mine (89CRX).....her car is n/a, so I figured hers could use the little bump from the head swap, where mine is going to turbo.....After all is done I might upgrade to a twin cam Vtec in mine.

Also, Andrew I'm sorry, I had my series wrong.....it is a d16

More pictures please...

Going all the way back to the first post....I see something familiar beside the car, what is it? Just cant put my finger on it.

Click to view attachment

Old stock Honda exhaust manifold lol.

Hope to have more pics by the weekend......turning one of the small rooms on the second floor of the house onto s full walk in closet is kicking my butt, but almost finished so I can get back on the car again

Naw, thought it looked like a Corvair manifold, then realized it was four ports. That almost looks like one of the old superchargers.

I did a lot more cutting and laid more tubes this weekend and last week.

Started getting the rear cut apart to make room for the new rear half of the chassis.

After I get the rear suspension tied back in I'm going to cut the stock rockers out, since they won't be needed any more and remove most of the rear firewall to make my drivetrain swap easier. By getting rid of the rockers I will have plenty of room to run coolant tubes if needed

Is that exhaust tubing?

Don't worry Andyrew, It's 4 OD x .120 wall 1010 Welded Structural Round Steel Tube.

You've probably already thought of it but how you gonna shift?

Seems like you blocked direct access to a tranny with your *exhaust* tubing at the rear firewall.

Ahh good. You had me worried there!!

Don't get me wrong, but you've welded 4" round steel within the already very wide longitudinals and on top of that you again constructed your cage structure within that, so you basically made the inner room , which is very cramped to start with, even smaller. Plus you now even sit at least 4"higher? This car going to be a single seater?

And why your choice for 4"round steel? Why didn't you use square beams and replace the side longs with your new subframe...no loss of space, more rigid, less weight and a place to build up your cage without sacrificing inner space like you're doing now?

Once again, not dissing you but you've made some decisions here that do not fit regular chassis building logic....

Best regards

Randall

^ I had some of these concerns as well.

However I figure the steel you had laying around. The design aspect was what I was concerned with.

Interior pace is really no concern to me in this one (I'm 5'5")lol I'll still have plenty of room for me, the 2 seats (Summit Racing buckets) and the shifter. A big part of the floor design/ tubing will give me a lot better support for a completely flat floor with just a slight dish to it to allow for better drainage not if, but when the car gets water inside (no roof , side or rear windows in the plans at this time).

A lot of the rear firewall is going to be cut out and not replaced till after the engine swap is complete and if my plans workout the way they are in my head the new shift linkages "should" run just through a notch on the bottom of the 4" cross tube in the rear.

Already had a peice of plywood laying acrossed the floor and the seats thrown in the car to do a quick test fit . For me, yes it works and feels great, if you are 6' talk, then no way in hell lol

By the way, don't want you guys to think I'm blowing any criticism and tip off, I've built gocart and motorcycle frames before, but this is my first attempt to build a full car chassis, so all advice is welcome!

Also, I finally have a name for this project car! "Project NARP".

Maybe "Project NARPteen" is a bit more fitting?

It's not even a NARP. It's NANARP.
Fun project. I'm enjoying your build.

Isn't that what Mork used to say, "nanarp, nanarp"?