So.... in order to get a bit more room in the garage after the move, so I can start welding on the body i figured I'd work on getting the engine up on a stand an off to the side for a little bit... I have the tranny off and wires/FI stripped off and boxed up and have been taking the sheet metal screws off.. I have 4 that are totally seized on... 3 of them at the intake ports and one on the fan shroud.. I've soaked them with pb blaster and all i've managed to do it mangle the slot in the screw a bit..
I'm inclined to just drill out the screws and tap them afterwards...

Before I do this, does anyone have any time tested suggestions to get these buggers off?? If not, does anyone know off hand what size the tap / drill I'll need to use ?

Thanks !
Mike

if you have an impact driver you could try tapping them with it. Don't wail on them though. or use a torch and heat them up.

Don't drill them out. If you mess up you could hurt the case.

Zach

I would try grabbing the head with vise grips before I tried drilling them out. I've loosened stuck tin screws with a propane torch, too. If you do have to drill and tap they are 6mmx1.0.

I had the same problem and after 3 days of PB I heated them with a torch and used a pair of Vice Grip Plyers and the screw driver at the same time using the wrench more than the screw driver!

3 came out no problem but one broke off in the head. I gave the heads away any way so I never looked at them again!

So try the torch heat and vice grip method and take your time letting the PB soak in!

A big screw driver that does not slip/strip out always helps. Bolt extractor set may be helpful.

MAPP Torch.

I just sprayed them (again ) with PB Blaster.. I'll let them soak another night and get some oxygen for my maap torch tomorrow... thanks for the ideas

I love PB, it runs through my veins nowadays

Mapp for sure...

I just went through this a couple of weeks ago. I found that using a QUALITY screwdriver and a wrench on the screwdriver for torque made them much easier to remove. On the ones that were mangled, I was able to use vice grips of various sizes/styles to get them out. I did not have to resort to heat, but that would have been my next option. The last thing that I would want to do is retap them.

Hopefully, I will be putting it all back together this weekend. There will be anti-sieze on the shiny new ones.

Impact screw driver was invented to take out slotted cheese head screws from VW engines.
Get one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwd...case-37530.html

Rich

I found that having the actual correct size of screwdriver made a huge difference. The largest size flat-head screwdriver that my local Sears carried was the correct size. It's a big mother, and it fits the screws very well. Lean on that and twist it, and they pop loose right away!

--DD

Mapp is very good too.
One extra step to really break the hold? Ice
right after mapp torch heat treatment,ice.
Please use sound judgement,there will be snap,crackle and pop,
and we're not talking about melting ice,

I don't even want to think about drilling,sucess rate, low

I'm another for the impact. If you dont have one, your toolbox is incomplete.

Last time I removed tin, and impact screwdriver got every one of them out. No PB Blaster, no torch, no fuss, no muss. Just out and done.

Had the same problem some weeks ago, a heat gun worked fine for me.


/Lars S

most of the advice above is solid. patience is the key. proper size driver, soak w PB.
...and what Curt said

...I have a special tool just for that. A B I G fucking screwdriver. I press down with my hand at the top as I slowly twist, and a wooden flat (to keep it from slipping off the screwhead). Sometimes I may need a pair of plyers to grip the square screwdriver shaft as I turn on the stubborn ones. Haven't had one I couldn't remove. Hate those bastards with their stupid single slot. I replace them with real fasteners.

I had the same problem. It took 2 people, my buddy was using vise grips and I was using screw driver at the same time.

teamwork! love it

I've also had better luck using Kroil as a penetranting liquid. Give it time to work overnight, then heat and patience are your friends.

Anti seize when reassembling is also a nice touch to make the next repair easier.

Final verdict... Maap torch, pb blaster and impact driver got all of the screws out except for one which the head shaped off...

Engine stand yoke is on its way... Once the motor is up and out of the way I can start welding on the body again.. and start sourcing engine parts

Thanks again everyone !

Mike