The time has come to rebuild the original EA motor in my '72.

I am most of the way though teardown, I will add some photos of the worn parts in a later post.

I am trying to figure out the size of the tool to use to remove this fastener, the cover for the second oil pressure relief piston and spring.

Click to view attachment

Factory service manual has it as M14 internal head socket. I searched for it but all I could find is the AST Tool # S 54 X-14 at the link listed below

http://www.asttool.com/detail_page.php?too...r=S%2054%20X-14


Does anyone know if this is the correct tool?

Thanks for looking,
Mike

If I recall correctly, its the same tool you use for the cv joints.

Hey vsg914, just checked and the axle tool is much smaller, although it seems to have the same number of points.
Thanks,
Mike

When I needed an internal 12pt tool for my CV's, I found that the local Autozone had them in a 4pc. assortment for around 10 bucks.

check them out, I'll bet your local auto parts chain still carries them.




Ron

3/8 inch drive socket extension worked for me....it's only 4 points of contact, butmine wasn't "stuck" so it came out without too much force.

You are correct. Its called a tripple square, among other things. Available at oriellys. M14 is the size

Hey vsg914,
Just got back from O'Reilly's "all we have is what's on the shelf" I live in Los Angeles, very difficult to find anything here. They did not have it, but they did have a Lisle 62200, it is used to remove broken heater hose couplers on GM cars, fits perfectly!
Thanks everyone,
Mike

Wow! 330K? Very cool!

Yup, never used anything but a 3/8" drive extension with no socket on it.

I ran into a small snag, trying to remove the head studs, double nutting them, I was able to remove all but 2, the forward drivers side lower studs.
I tried with an open end wrench and than with the impact driver, the nuts just turn off the stud.
I was going to try some heat using MAPP gas but I don't want to melt the case.
How much heat and for how long?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Mike

That's what I want to hear about. Maybe in another thread you can share with us what it took to get here. How many top overhauls, rings, etc. Maybe Jake or Brad Penn would want to ink a deal with you to endorse their oil. Whatever you do, don't come back and tell us you've been using off the shelf oil. It could cause an uprising. Incredible. You da man.

To remove that triple square fastener give it two licks with a hammer and unscrew it with your fingers.. Might need a little help from a 3/8 extension.

The most miles I have seen from a TIV is 321k..

Off the shelf oil wasn't crap until 2001... Engines that were well worn beyond that point didn't care so much about the oil they used.. Fresh, tight and well built high performing engines are much more critical oil wise..

I bought the car in the '80's, 96k on the odo. I don't think the engine has ever been apart. No rings, valve jobs as long as I've owned it.

Pulled the motor at 337,xxx broke 2 angle drives in the time I've had the car, so I can add 2-3k miles on top of that.

Now reading 345,xxx.

Started using Quaker State 10w-40 when I lived in NYC.

'86 finds me in MIA FL and switching to Castrol 20w-50

'89 a move to LA (left coast) and I stick with the Castrol, stored a bunch of the orange top stuff in my garage, when it ran out, (that is when I found out about the zinc disappearing). I used the current stuff for an oil change until I could find a local guy selling Brad Penn.

Every oil change has been between 1500 and 3000 miles with out missing, shorter intervals when the engine was being stressed, also changed the filter 80% of the time (usually a shortage of cash issue).

And to top it all off, 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil with every oil change, (I also add 4 oz. to the fuel at every fill up, original fuel pump).

Any endorsement contracts welcome!!!
Mike

Hmmm, my odometer only has 5 digits. What am I missing here

[quote name='Valy' date='Sep 30 2011, 06:12 PM' post='1547272']
[quote name='mgphoto' post='1547261' date='Sep 30 2011, 05:46 PM']
Pulled the motor at 337,xxx broke 2 angle drives in the time I've had the car, so I can add 2-3k miles on top of that.

Now reading 345,xxx.

[/
Hmmm, my odometer only has 5 digits. What am I missing here
[/quote]
He got it in the 80's w/ 97k and has rolled the odo twice

I took the case over to Engine Machine Services, they cleaned it and they measured it today, Bruce said the case is used but not worn, woo who.....

He also said that after cleaning, the case is a bit stained, so I will have to look at it to see it I want it bead blasted, any advice here???
before
Click to view attachment

Worst of the damage was the valves stuck in the retainers, a brass mallet and a little pressure on the retainer freed them up.
Also one of the pushrods had contacted the pushrod tube retaining wire and wore the pushrod slightly, (my fault, I fiddled with the rocker arm to determine usage of 911 adjusters and installed the wire incorrectly.)


OK so here are some photos of the internals.

1st the worst of the bearing,
Cam bearing center position
Click to view attachment

The forward exhaust valves have white deposits while the rears where a bit black and oily.

Click to view attachment


OK top ring gap!

Click to view attachment


more to come!
Mike

Dont glass bead it, you wont see it after you build it...
Waste of money and it could imbed beads into the surface..not cool.
Also will require you to super clean the case after.

Do have him remove all the freeze plugs and tap them for threaded plugs...

Rich

Thanks Rich for responding, I had just those same thoughts about the bead blasting, and yes next stage is to tap and thread the oil galleys!

OK dismantled the heads, there is one odd item, one of the intake valve guides seems to be flush with the base which is different from the others, see image below.

Click to view attachment

That is an intake valve guide dropping into the head. Eventually it would have let to valve/piston contact.

Zach

Whoo, just in time!!

OK got the case back after cleaning and tapping the oil galleys.

Click to view attachment


more photos to come...

That head with the dropping intake valve guide has been off before. The other intake guide has been replaced. It's pretty obvious as the replacement has a shoulder. The O.E. guides did not which is why the drop.

That head was rebuilt at some time and the one O.E. guide was replaced.