My 73 2.0 that's getting a v8 has front and rear sway bars. I've seen several people say not to use the rear, but I don't know the details of why and under what circumstances. I of course am not voting because I don't know

I'll let you know tomorrow. We just installed a rear bar on a 914 with NO front bar and will test it tomorrow at a AutoX.

Bottom line is this: what does YOUR car need ? If you have a V8 car with 200lb rear springs and the front end tends to push you can do one of three things: 1. install stiffer rear springs or 2. run a rear bar or 3. loosen the front bar which effectively makes the rear end more loose.

I install rear bars because it gives me more setup options and it takes just a few minutes to remove 40-50lbs worth of rear "spring rate" that the bar offers hooked up.

I will tell you that I'm working with a manufacturer to design a new 914 rear sway bar that is adjustable and doesnt hit the trunk floor on lowered 914's. I want to be able to run a lighter rear spring rate and compensate with a rear adjustable sway bar.


B

Oh.. FWIW...

All factory built race cars come with F+R sway bars. There is a reason why the 914 in 1973 came with F+R bars. Who are we to argue with the engineers ?



B

I had people tell me not to run it and others tell me that I should run it. I have driven 914's with and without sway bars. There is a huge difference in handling. I added the front and rear sway bars to my Chalon since it didnt come with them. I have a 23mm front adjustable and a stock rear sway bar. I have not driven it yet but I put them on because I know it will make some difference and stock without them, well, almost sucks.

I pulled the Welt aftermarket bar off my car immediately when I first bought it; at that time there was no LSD and the suspension was not nearly dialed...so the car was effin' undrivable. It had 140lb rears + the swaybar and a bone STOCK front end.

You'd hit a tiny rise or bump in the road and rear traction would go away.

Now I have it in the garage and might play around again someday. BTW it DID hit the trunk floor at some point; there is clear evidence (i.e. dent).

Dang, and I JUST sold my rear bar.. (parts heven swap meet)


Would it be unsafe to run with just 120's in the back? Will I have to completely disconnect my front bar to make it more drivable? V8 car..

I'll be getting stiffer springs down the line.

Me's running:

18mm Front Bar off a 1976 930
19mm Stock 911 torsion bars
Konis with 18mm raised spindle

140lb. rear springs
16mm factory bar
Konis

B... do you think I'll hit with the 140's and the weight of the 6-clyinder? Is this why some of the factory GT's had them mounted "inside" with the longer arms? First I ever heard of them hitting...

I noticed in another car a few days ago that somebody installed a rear stock bar upside down with the links facing down and not up... guess how we installed this latest one ? I know they did it on accident.. I did it on purpose. Yes Eric, this is the exact reason why you see them mounted in the trunk with links going down. I personally know that the links dont care which direction they are facing as long as they are attached to the bar and the shock bolt. Doing it this way the links hang down but no lower than the heat exchangers.

Ideally you should set the car up with the springs and fine tune with the bars. Problem is: we can only buy springs in 25lb increments and it gets old changing the springs out. Soo.. with a rear bar I can dial in upwards of 50lbs before I have to make a spring change.

The new Porsche race cars come with very small F+R bars because they tune the suspension in with springs and 5lb helpers.

B

Also, there is a maximum spring rate (140) that you can install on your car if you want to stay in the improved category for autocrossing. Adding a rear sway bar essentially bumps your rear stiffness up 50lbs or so.

-Britain

Yep. Play by the rules (at least for this year)


B