what a bitch these things are.

my first -6 fitting, didn't get the end cut 100% square, just a little off. Does this need surgical precision or is close enought OK?

Next blunder, got 1/16" of "push out" as I threaded the nipple in.
Can this really be done with 0 push out?

Can I use this fitting splice as it is described above or should I keep practicing? Any tips?

BTW, I am using a 3" cutoff wheel to cut the hose, the hacksaw blade technique was impossible, frayed like crazy.

thanks,
dr

also, now I see why I need to get some Aluminum AN wrenches, scratched up my new fittings already.

Use the hacksaw, but to prevent fraying, wrap tape (I use electrical tape) around the hose and cut through the tape. The cut needs to be reasonably square, but you do have some latitude there.

I wouldnt worry about 1/16 push out...try pushing the hose a teeny bit more into the fitting before you thread in the other piece. use lots of lube (motor oil etc), also hol one part in a vise and turn the other part

the best thing for cutting hose are these
the 3in cutting wheel method leaves the hose full of rubber and bits of cutting wheel

that link is broken, really want to know what "these" are.

dr

I fixed the link... but if it doesnt work, go to www.mcmaster.com page 2155 or search for "cable shears" the shears aint cheap but they are the shizzle.. Ive seen similar shears for around $35 at a local marine supply house

wrap the end of the hose tightly with racer's tape. use a SHARP 32-tpi hacksaw blade. a long time ago i bought a tube cutting vise, has a clamp to hold the tube and a set of saw guides to make the cut exactly square. it was expensive then but i have used it successfully for many years - definitely got my money's worth... if i can find it again i'll post a picture - it's not where i thought i stashed it...

you'll still need to clip a FEW frayed strands with very sharp shears. i used moly-based assembly lube when assembling fittings but use some kind of good lubricant. 1/16" isn' really cause for heartburn on a -6 fuel fitting.

Summit has good deal on aluminum Bonney wrenches and has finally (YAY!) come out with an all-aluminum adjustable wrench.

thanks for the tips,

I am going to try a set of those cable shears, if those things work, this will be much easier and neater.

dr

they work, we use them on hose from -20 to -6

i bought a cheap pair at Harbor Freight on the hope that they might work, and knowing that i had plenty of use for them in other applications if they didn't.

they were junk on AN-6 braided hose but they did cut plastic irrigation line just fine.

this is a place where cheap tools are no bargain...

Rich actually the shears I saw at the marine supply place were a real quality tool, however they probably could cut a -8 hose max, limited use for us.. I got my shears from Graybar, mcmaster is a bit more convenient to me now than Graybar is..

I checked mcmaster and grainger, both have shears between $60 and $200 and ratcheting shears for even more.

Will $80 => $100 get me a set that will cut up to -10?

dr

Shear "A" in mcmaster should do you fine 1 1/4" capacity

yes - i'm sure they were.

i was just trying to make the point that this is a demanding application and one can't scrimp on quality. if you can find a bargain on a quality tool that's cool, but a cheap tool is no bargain at any price.

intersting tidbit, this guy recommends using two very fine hacksaw blades mounted opposite each other in the hacksaw to cut the hose?

btw he also has some good prices on fittings

I use a die grinder (pneumatic) & cut off wheel. Wrap the line with tape and have at it.....but don't forget to clean the shittage out of it. If you can, pack the line with cloth of paper towels right where you're gonna cut & cut thru the whole works. Needlenose pliers will pull the stuff out.....clean anyhow....no matter how you cut it. I've done lots of em and have a zillion pinpricks to proove it.

Then make up a test rig to pressure test em. I use 120 lbs of air and spray with a water/soap mix. Bubbles are bad.

on AN wrenches, I have been using a regular 3/4" on my -6 fittings,

so why are the aluminum AN wrenches sized as 11/16" for -6?

dr

did you make a fitting to attach to your air compressor? How?

dr

Ayup.
Damned if I know

I'll dig it out and take a pic.

they are? actually - i donno. i have a few different sizes of Bonney wrenches and i just use the ones that fit; mine aren't marked for size.

but the B-nut and the nipple have different sizes, so i guess it depends on which you're measuring. i think the "right" sized wrench is for the B nut...

OK, this is for an AN (oops, a double an)12 line.

IIRC, you can get a 1/4 pipe to AN6 fitting and skip the reducer. This one is 1/4 pipe to 1/2 pipe, AN12 to 1/2 pipe, and a AN 12 plug.

Great tips above. I had good results with the Aeroquip soft vise-jaws, a sharp fine-tooth hacksaw, and the tape-wrap method. I did bogart a few cuts (too crooked and/or frayed)...watch out for those frays cuz they can draw blood easily. Also definitely get at least a basic set of alloy AN wrenches; they will avoid almost all marring of the anodizing. Regular steel wrenches tear the fittings to hell.

thanks tim

just got a pair of HK Potter Cable Cutters and they go thru the -6 "like butta"

Haven't tried -10 yet but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

These were the only set of cutters under $100 that were approved for steel wire cable. The others were only rated for aluminum or copper. They probably would work as well but I figured these would do the job.

The cut is very clean, definitely good enough to install in the fitting.

Thought I might get something to put in the hose like foam or an eraser so it doesn't squish so much though.

These things are going to save me lots of time and don't make any dust or fragments to get in the line. I figure I have about 30 or so fittings to install between the oil and fuel systems.

dr