Just got back from Rennsport, and wow, it was amazing. Interesting to see 100's of 911's in the corral, but only a dozen 914's. Must mean our cars are quite rare, and thus, should be of great value!

Anyhow, I started experiencing starting issues when the car was warm. It would turn over fine, but not fire. If i roll started it, no problem. If I waited an hour or so, it would start off the key again. Today on the way back, i waited an hour, with no luck. I then actually tried cooling the coil with ice water until it was cold to the touch, and blam, fired right up. Maybe that did the trick, maybe it was co-incidence.

Any of you electrical types car to chim in?

I am running carbs, Mallory dizzy, bosch coil, fuel pump in the back, in case your thinking possible vapor lock, but I am pretty sure thats not it.

You need spark, fuel, and compression. Which of those was missing?

--DD

I am 99% sure its spark. If it bump starts but not off the starter, maybe the voltage to the coil is drawn down when the starter is running? Drawing it down just enough to expose heat failure issues?

Yep, could be! Bad connections and coil failing ( maybe), only gets worse with heat applied. I'd check all of my connectors first.
Tom

When cold, all resistance values on my coil are fine. Have not checked when its hot. But another thing that occurs to me is maybe i am drawing current through a failing diode in the alternator when starting? How would I check my alternator and/or voltage reg?

Here you go......... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=117551

I also have found that if i put an ampmeter between the pos terminal of my battery, and the cable end, i have a 630 mA current with the key off. I do not think its related to the charging system, as i checked that by unplugging the alt. harness, with no effect. Hmmm.

jeffdon,
Sounds like you have a parasitic drain. You need to disconnect things one at a time to find out what is causing it. You indicated you disconnected the alt., but not which wire or wires. The 3 pin plug will not remove a failing diode from the circuit. You need to disconnect the large wire to the post on the solenoid where the battery cable is to do that. If it isn't the alt., it will probably be one of the 4 red wires hooked to the battery positive. Try disconnecting them and see if they are the problem. Two large ones go to : 1- key switch, and 2- fuses 10,11, and 12( they are tied together on the hot side. The two smaller ones go to the relay board at the 14 pin connector, pin 14, and pin 12.
Hope this helps,
Tom

Something is wrong and it looks like the voltage regulator.
Take out all the fuses from the under-dash panel and check the current again. If you still see drainage, take out the voltage regulator and check again.

You can shut straight for the regulator if you like. I just assume that taking out the fuses is easy as a sanity check.

VR removal did nothing. Gotta try the fuse thing now.

Yes, go ahead and pull the fuses. I suggest to pull them one by one and see when the current drops.

BTW, I just want to make sure you have the amp-meter correctly connected. You should disconnect the wire from the battery (+) and hook the meter between the battery and that wire.