I am thinking of buying a 74 1.8 for 3500 with 39k miles, a mechanic I know got in a trade for some work and I have wanted one for about 10 years . also how much more HP will I get if I put dual webbers on it ( are 44 better than 40s ) and are there higher ratio rocker arms to increase lift to allow for the added fuel , eletronic ignition hotter coil , what other semi simple HP increasing things can I do . BTW I love this website

more info, Interior is pretty good body OK , it used to be a green now it is silver and the clear coat is lifting a bit on the hood, it was hit on the pass side but not bad , no rust , Calif. car

Don't look for more horsepower from bolt on stuff ... it ain't gonna happen.

Best bolt on HP gain would be to back date the exhaust ... '73 - '74 2.0L being the best of the bunch. The earlier 1.7/1.8 would also help. Single pipe system on the car is very restrictive.

The '74 1.8L is a choked down, lo compression smog motor. Lowest HP of all of them. L-Jet injection is great if it all works .. no vacuum leaks at all.

More HP ... buy a 2L motor.

$3500 ... Not bad, but without pictures not going to say "good price".

'74 should already have the better exhaust. Leave the L-Jet in place 'cause to really make use of the carbs, you need a carb camshaft. Want more hp? Put in a 3L -6... or buy a Boxster....

if it runs well - leave it alone.

put your money into suspension and brakes - or rust repair.

see hp numbers - 72 to 95 - neither is gonna mash you into the seat.

http://www.914world.com/specs/engnumbs.php

if you're gonna need heat - that will increase the cost of conversion to early style HE's by a bunch and double the effort gathering parts. thus i'd say leave that alone too.

jim

I looked at the fact sheet numbers on the 1.8 , I couldn't believe only 7.3 :1 compression, I had a 60 ford F100 with a 292 v8 , it had 7.5 : 1 , but it was basically a tractor engine, any way with that low of compression it would be good for a supercharger, did or does anyone make one or have ever heard of any one modifying one to fit?

Yes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTBMd6qFEek...C1506C6EDEB8B88

The guy is member on this forum

Ok apparently I must be confused here. Is the car a 75 1.8 with new heat exchangers or is it a 74 1.8 without the smog equipment as IIRC . I have the 75 1.8 I have backdated my heat exchangers added a Tangerine EVO Silencer IV. I like the way it has improved. The 1.8's have a bad rap. I enjoy mine. But thats just me.

I recently bought a 74 1.8 for $2700. no rust, really a nice original car. cost me about $500 to debug the l-jet and now it runs great, just as Porsche intended. IMHO if you can find one of these still running the FI, you should stick with that. it works great, it's a good setup. altering the engine for more power is a slippery slope with no end in sight. you want a fast car? go buy one. the 914 in it's stock form is a good,fun car and in stock spec will hold value quite well. offer $3k and drive the car and enjoy it for what it is.
Randy

pictures of the car

more pics

Given the color of that speedo needle, I would question the mileage and look at this car very thoroughly before buying. Looks to be about a $1500 car to me.

32,572 miles on a 37 year old car is somewhat suspect. I would be concerned that it might be 132,572 miles. Of course the most important thing is RUST. Point out all the rust to the owner, offer him 1500 and see what happens.
Cheers, Elliot

I retract my earlier post about offer 3K and drive it. I'm seeing some body issues here. get the thing on a lift and take a good look underneath.
Randy

Yes get some pics of the Hell hole (Battery tray & below)! That is the biggest cancer spot & the most common. There are plenty of others too but that is the most suspect. If that area is solid It's a car worth getting. $3500 is a bit high though even if it runs perfect. The bumpers are cheap fiberglass replica's. Not necesarily a bad thing but they don't look right on that car. The fit on the rear bumper is all wrong. It should be covering the license plate wires. So it should be up about an inch & a half to 2". On the odometer I would be shocked if it wasn't 132,000. That really isn't a good gage as many odometer's have quite working. So it is probably even more than 132,000. They are easy to change too. So unless you come across an original owner car. It is extremely rare to find a low mileage one.

If it runs & drives good I'd offer $2-2500 if the rust isn't bad. If there are holes in the floor or hell hole. Run away . We can help you find a better one

I dont know if this car is still for sale but this is an example of pricing for a 914 1.8.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=141669
This car is in way better condition than the car you are looking at for the same price. You will most likely put in a lot more money than just a few thousand that you paid for the car to get it to a decent drivable condition from the looks of it too. Keep looking is my advice.

The engine are the least of the worries looking at this car. It appears from the photos that the front apron was hit and it smells through the computer like a bondo sculpture. In the picture it also looks like the front leading edge door gap is off and the fender looks a bit bowed. My 1.8 is stock with working l-jet and I love it as a 4cyl. keep your foot on the gas, don't lift and have fun.

The floors have no rust , more picsClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

If this is your first foray into the 914, have someone from this board look at it with you. Rust under the surface can make a grown man cry.

The cost of a few beers and maybe a steak dinner will be much worth it.





Funny but true.

Yes, this is my first foray in to the 914 world, and it would be great if someone that knows these cars could take A look at it , I would gladly buy a coupe o beers and a steak , I live in and the car is in Healdsburg CA. which is about 70 miles north of San Francisco, anyone interested?

This car needs a PPI. The front passenger side has been hit and fixed poorly. I also believe I see evidence of poor body work on the drivers rear. No way this is a 30k mile car. Before you buy have someone look this one over close.

What's the VIN number? I'm curious if it's in the Member's VIN section.

Format: 47429XXXXX EDIT: 4742915385

Locations: (1) embossed plate viewable through windshield, low on driver's side "A" pillar, (2) sticker in driver's side door jamb, just below striker, (3) stamped plate on top of passenger side fender well, in front trunk, near hood spring attachment, (4) aluminum plate on the inside passenger side front trunk, below headlight bucket, (5) valid state vehicle ownership/registration paperwork.

Click to view attachment

. . . added to VIN database, with a picture.

Looking through the punched holes in the sticker, it appears that the car was originally yellow (L13K or L13M?). Can you get the numbers (chassis/paint code) from the silver/black square data plate on the driver's side door jamb, just above the bottom door hinge? Thanks!

Note: The chassis number on the data plate will be in a format similar to this: 0949549 (from VIN 4742915355)

Yes, what is the chassis number? That is only a few vins after mine