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kbrunk1
sad.gif sad.gif Just getting started bringing back a 73 2.0 Should I rebuild the master brake cylinder and brakes even if they seem to work?

Also need advice on how to get tar out of gas lines and injectors?
McMark
Safety first. Get good brakes on there. Pretty much every revived 914 that I run across has sticky calipers, and often have leaky master cylinders. If you're putting it into regular service, I would install a new 19mm master cylinder (just because it's cheaper than the stock 17mm), new rubber lines, and get rebuilt calipers from PMB.

If there is crap in the fuel system, it also should be thoroughly cleaned. Otherwise you put the engine at risk of damage. Remove the tank and at least clean it out, replace all the fuel lines, and spray cleaner and air down the lines in the center tunnel.
EdwardBlume
QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 21 2011, 08:03 PM) *

Safety first. Get good brakes on there. Pretty much every revived 914 that I run across has sticky calipers, and often have leaky master cylinders. If you're putting it into regular service, I would install a new 19mm master cylinder (just because it's cheaper than the stock 17mm), new rubber lines, and get rebuilt calipers from PMB.

If there is crap in the fuel system, it also should be thoroughly cleaned. Otherwise you put the engine at risk of damage. Remove the tank and at least clean it out, replace all the fuel lines, and spray cleaner and air down the lines in the center tunnel.


agree.gif agree.gif

Mark is right. Clean out and replace the entire fuel system and then get the brake system in order.... assuming suspension, transmission, and structure is OK.
76-914
Tar???????????
kbrunk1
Should the tank be acid washed and or recoated or painted?
Is the original tank that was full of gunk re-salvageable?
swl
QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 22 2011, 10:47 AM) *

Tar???????????

yup. happens when old gas evaporates leaving behind only the 'tar'. Miserable stuff that accumulates (at least on my car) on the nylon section under the tunnel. Best advice is to pull them out and put the stainless ones in.
McMark
Pull the tank, remove the sender, filler neck, and bottom fittings. Hand it off to a professional for cleaning (BUT NOT COATING) or take your safety into your own hands and use muriatic acid to clean out the inside. Once all the old rust and scale is cleaned off and the tank is washed out with water (yes water) until no particulate is coming out. Then dry the tank with a heat gun, and apply this epoxy sealant. Done and you'll never have to deal with it again.
kbrunk1
How do you test the spray pattern of the injectors?

I assume you just pull them and depress the gas?

Thanks Ken
SLITS
QUOTE(kbrunk1 @ Dec 1 2011, 08:34 PM) *

How do you test the spray pattern of the injectors?

I assume you just pull them and depress the gas?

Thanks Ken


Disconnect the coil HT wire at the coil so there is no spark.

Pull them, put each of them in a glass jar and turn the engine over. You are looking for a conical spray coming from the end of them. When you have stopped cranking the engine, there should be no fuel dripping out of the ends.

rick 918-S
I just cleaned out a tank. I wasn't sure it was going to work buy others here have done this so I thought I would give it a shot.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ning++gas++tank

The inside of my tank was thick with rust and varnish. It looks like a new tank now. I'm goint to bump the link I posted and add my info there.
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