I didn't want to hijack the thread that this came from so I thought I'd start another one.



My floor jack extends to 22" and I also add a 4" x 4" under the engine cross bar. I jack it up ass first, than the front. Not side-to-side as I think it is a little more stable front to rear.

Here is a better picture of the jack stand blocks. They are made from two 2" x 12" with 2" x 4"'s standing on thier side between the 2" x 12". I added the handles because, well, why do you think I added the handles?

is the middle solid or hollow?

We are really disappointed Paul....we thought it was so light you just picked it up bare handed....

wow. thats cool.

"is the middle solid or hollow?"
The center is hollow. I could have used 2" x 6"s.

"We are really disappointed Paul....we thought it was so light you just picked it up bare handed...."
I have to be careful when using the jack. If I pump the handle to fast, the car flys up and hits the ceiling of the garage.

"wow. thats cool."
Very low tech. Made from scrap wood after a project.

Paul

Thanks for the reply Paul. Nice idea. How about drilling some holes in the wood to make them lighter? LOL
Cheers, Elliot

Thier made from pressure treated balsa wood.

Paul

I really like the rolling boxes that I have seen here before. Them boxes you made are plenty strong even for out heavy 1950 lb cars.

I'll hijack it then,

Picked up one of these jacks at PEP boys on sale.

The proud owner in the picture has the motor/tranny up on the jack but the rear support (red arrow) is always in that elevated position.

So what is the procedure? Jack up the motor only and then attach the tranny? If you do that then isn't it just an elevated platform?

Any thought?

dr

You should fill the insides with helium and then you could use the handles to attach strings connected to some bolts anchored into the floor to keep them from floating away.

Couldn't you rotate the motor/tranny 90 degrees and than lower it while supporting the tranny?

Paul

that is a good idea, but I don't know for sure, never tried it.

dr

Now that is gooooooooood thinkin'
I could use the helium that I have in the tires and in the roll bar.
Thanks,

Paul

I bought this tranny lift at Harbor Frieght a few months ago and haven't used it yet.

It cost $40 on sale. Will lift from 8" to 22" and lift 450 pounds. And the top pivots.

Another fine quality product from China.

Paul

I can make some kind of a jig to fit the bottom of the engine and to fit around my tuna can. And use the floor jack under the tranny. It has a socket fitting for a racket handle and works like a screw jack.

Simple.

Doubt if it will hold a -6. Those pigs weight over 450.

Paul

I love this "quality" hardware from china.

Especially the fresh smell of wet paint when you open the box.

dr

I call this pic "Pig on a lift".
Makes loading/removing the engine/trans unit a piece of cake.

This particular pig makes 200+ hp. Eat your hearts out all you 4 pooper owners
My son and I lifed this long block onto an engine stand. I must be stronger than I thought

Boxes with casters.....we gots those.
I hate jackstands......and I have to get 34 inches under the rear trunk bulkhead to remove/load the lump.
Stable is gud.

i love those boxes, jp -- but how do you get the car up there? (and down!)

I have a cheepo floor jack with 18" of lift.
I jack the car up as far as I can, then block it.
Drop the jack down and put blocks on the jack plate.
Up we go again. Usually takes me bout 30 minutes doing it alone. I *can* roll the car around by myself once on the
boxes.....but it's much easier/safer with another guy's help.

A nice car lift would be gud, but that's money better(?) spent on the car.

The RV lift requires a similar routine. It is stable as all get out. I have (literally) dropped a motor once or twice.....but not since I got the RV lift.